Tell me about this 14-1/2 x 6’

rwdenney

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My wife’s uncle bought this 14-1/2” swing by 6’ South Bend lathe many years ago with the intent of learning machine work. (He taught airplane mechanics at a community college after his first “retirement”, so he has skills.) He never got around to that, but his mechanic assistant has used it occasionally to make parts for the 1949 Woody the two of them finished last year. He’s aged out of it, but loves to sit in his “hangar” and keep company with whoever in his circle has a project. With Covid, that’s been just about nonexistent, so I want to spend some time with this lathe as much for his enjoyment as mine. And there is a chance that this lathe will come to me in the fullness of time.

It’s a beast, and very dirty. Its been a catchall in the (very) old shed to which he appended his hangar about 40 years ago, but there seems to be oily grime on it far more that rust, for the most part.

I poked around it this evening, doing a quick inspection. The ways appear to be unworn—I could not detect the slightest ridge. The compound handwheel is slightly stiff, but all the other wheels run smoothly. The compound lock may have been snug.

(With all the pics I made, you’d think I’d have taken one picture of the whole thing. Sadly, you’d be wrong.)

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What can you tell me about the gearbox on this thing? I know there are three drive pulleys (and it appears to be on the highest speed and has been for living memory). I’m assuming the gearbox (which I managed not to photograph) is for the lead screw feed speed for the carriage. I can’t tell if this has a power-feed cross slide, but it probably does.

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The taper attachment is in place. I found a dead center to go with the Jacobs chuck that sits in the tail stock normally.

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The head stock is carrying a 3-jaw chuck, but there is a 4-jaw chuck on the floor next to it. There is a steady rest in the chip tray.

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The tool post is the classic type—no quick-change here—but that could be added. I wasn’t able to get into the cabinet with “lathe stuff” in it—it at least has tooling but I was led to believe there’s more than just bits. Perhaps there is a set of collets in there.

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The motor has been replaced and is single-phase. I could not get to the motor’s ID tag to read its specs. It’s mounted in the cast base—this isn’t a bench configuration.

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Just to show that I’ve used it under power, I have a photo I made four years ago when I needed to chamfer an aluminum wheel spacer to fit over a hub that had an interfering fillet. I didn’t know how to bump it true, or to grind the bit appropriately to cut the aluminum, and it chattered a bit on the end of that long holder. But it worked well enough. I could do better now.

I have the use of this lathe any time I want, so I’m scratching around for a project to get my feet wet with it.

The whole thing is about 7 feet long.

How heavy is this thing? Can it be lifted from a single point? Uncle would like it to be in a different spot in the newer hangar area. He moved it to its current location using Egyptian technology, but the floor it sits on is not smooth.

I think my first project will be to put some quality time into maintenance to make sure it’s in a state of good repair. I’ve ordered it downloaded the necessary literature to do that.

Rick “who’ll take a box full of metrology stuff next time” Denney
 
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It appears to be a 1948-1950 era lathe. Serial number can confirm. It is a toolroom version, which means it was really clapped out at the factory. It looks to have bronze bearings in the headstock, instead of the segmented cast iron used during the war. It weights 2250 pounds. Lift using the webbing between the ways and NOT around the outside.

It probably needs the felts replaced by now if they haven't been replaced in the last 30 years.
 
It appears to be a 1948-1950 era lathe. Serial number can confirm. It is a toolroom version, which means it was really clapped out at the factory. It looks to have bronze bearings in the headstock, instead of the segmented cast iron used during the war. It weights 2250 pounds. Lift using the webbing between the ways and NOT around the outside.

It probably needs the felts replaced by now if they haven't been replaced in the last 30 years.
I gather that the tool-room model has (had!) tighter specs and/or more accessories, so I will take "clapped" to mean "slicked". (Not my usual definition :))

2250 pounds. Oooh. I think that means taking some big stuff off of it and moving separately if we decide to push it around. It has never been leveled in its current spot, and I hardly dare to put a precision level across the ways. A gantry won't fit around it where it is, and we'll have to use an engine hoist, but we'll have to limit the extension and that may mean not being able to find the balance point. My engine hoist is limited to half a ton at full extension, and mine is bigger than Uncle's.

I see felt kits for these on ebay, and I've ordered what purports to being a rebuild manual. And I have the parts document.

I should also, I suppose, order the serial-number card from South Bend, but I haven't uncovered the serial number just yet.

Thanks for the info!

Rick "appreciative" Denney
 
Forklift is best bet.

Looks just like ours did.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
I had seen that sales brochure, and it had lots of good info but not catalog numbers. But with those clues, I found a catalog (#25, 1946) at VM that shows the 8183C, and now understand that the leading "8" designates the tool-room model and the trailing "C" the six-foot bed (with three feet between centers).

On the felts: When I moved the carriage over the ways, the motion left a track of fresh oil, which I take as a good sign. Not sure the felts are quite wiping the ways as well as one might hope, however. But if I take on the project of restoring it to a state of good repair (I am not the guy for full showroom restorations--I just want it to work properly), all that will get addressed.

A forklift is not an option, unfortunately. Just no room for it in any dimension.

Rick "machine skates may be an option for parts of any move, using an engine hoist to get ends over bumps" Denney
 
Nice lathe- the toolroom version has the extra-precise leadscrew and generally tighter specs- The "Primo" version.
South Bend actually farmed their leadscrews out to another firm from what I read.
You can lighten it somewhat by taking things off- the more effort you expend the lighter it gets- to a point
Looks like it's set on the lowest speed: small pulley lower, large pulley upper (on spindle) gives lowest speed
Certainly the whole machine needs a good cleaning and felts replaced, probably should check the belts too
-M
 
It can be easily torn down, still heavy chunks but doable.

End legs can be a pain so support for bed a must.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
The V-belts look okay (for now) but the leather belt is showing signs of age. It still runs true and smooth, however.

The leadscrew for the carriage does not show a lot of wear--the threads do not look or feel worn. Yes, it's set for the slowest speed right now, and the surface rust on the lower pulley cone suggests it's been there for a long time--probably forever. I would sure want to polish those pulleys to a bright finish before running a leather belt on them.

I haven't looked at the belt joint to see how it is connected--glue, lacing, or hooks. If I need to replace that belt, I'll deal with that in the fullness of time. But I suspect leather can show all manner of surface imperfection and still be usable. Until it isn't. I doubt that the belt does crazy things when it breaks (unlike much higher-speed V-belts). I suspect the spindle just stops mid-operation with minimal excitement. So, I think I'll run it until it fails, unless it reaches the point of not transferring power. At its most recent use, it transmits power just fine.

Seems to me that removing the tail stock, the saddle, and the chuck will take off several hundred pounds and leave what's left below a ton. That's another extension notch on a hoist, which I think will be important. If I can use a toe jack to get the hoist under the head end, from the end, then I can use the same toe jack to lift the tail end onto machine skates and drag it along. I'm not unused to figuring out that sort of thing, if I can get the weight down just a bit.

I don't know what happened to the collet rack that is also supposed to be supplied with the tool-room version. But I've just scratched the surface of the archeology--much digging still needed.

Rick "it will have to go through a doorway" Denney
 
The serial number is in the front on the extreme right hand side of the bed, stamped in the flat spot between the ways. Look for it in the area shown in your third picture above. It is right next to where the two screw heads are shown.
 
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