Tang'ed Arbor on Milling tools??

[itsme_Bernie]

Bernie, I had the same reservations as you with regard to a tanged arbor staying in the spindle.
On my B&S 10 the facemill arbor I got was tanged and I was assured that it'd be just fine in my mill.
They were right.
I run a three inch facemill on it and there has been no problem with it slipping or falling out.
While I prefer a drawbar, if the tooling I get has a tanged arbor I no longer sweat it.
I'm not sure how easy a drill and tap it would be either.

Thanks Ken!

The Tang'd arbor discussion started on my tool request thread, so I lost track! Hah

I GREATLY appreciate your experience here. The only reason I was concerned was that the tool I am buying is a large boring and facing tool, which could potentially reach 5 or 6 inches off center, if I wanted. Pretty cool one at that, so even outside of safety, I don't want this thing dropping out!

How hard do you pull your tools in anyway? I guess I won't have to draw them in too hard with the shallow taper we are talking about ..

Bernie

 

[Senna]

Thanks Ken!

The Tang'd arbor discussion started on my tool request thread, so I lost track! Hah

I GREATLY appreciate your experience here. The only reason I was concerned was that the tool I am buying is a large boring and facing tool, which could potentially reach 5 or 6 inches off center, if I wanted. Pretty cool one at that, so even outside of safety, I don't want this thing dropping out!

How hard do you pull your tools in anyway? I guess I won't have to draw them in too hard with the shallow taper we are talking about ..

Bernie

You guess correctly. With the big surface area in contact with the spindle bore you just don't need to torque them up too much.
These ain't R8 tooling with their relatively tiny surface area.
Some problems can arise if you put a cold tool into a hot spindle too. You get what is essentially a shrink fit as the spindle cools down. Being home shop guys most of us just don't get the spindle hot enough to matter.

 

[itsme_Bernie]

You guess correctly. With the big surface area in contact with the spindle bore you just don't need to torque them up too much.
These ain't R8 tooling with their relatively tiny surface area.
Some problems can arise if you put a cold tool into a hot spindle too. You get what is essentially a shrink fit as the spindle cools down. Being home shop guys most of us just don't get the spindle hot enough to matter.

Great tips man! Thank you!
I don't have much experience with long tapered collets like this- I have used double taper "Y"s and 5C. Both pretty easy release. I'm going to have to watch myself!

I used MT2 collets in the headstock of my 6 inch Atlas lathe, but that was light duty work.


Bernie

 

[benmychree]

For about 30 years, I had a #2 B&S universal mill with #10 taper set up for either tang or drawbar; most of the arbors and adaptors had tang drive, and I never had a problem with them loosening; I just set them in with a right smart blow with a lead hammer, and used a knockout bar as originally supplied by the maker with an approx. 3" diameter iron ball on the end for weight to unseat them.