Tang'ed Arbor on Milling tools??

[itsme_Bernie]

Someone offered me a very high quality Universal Precision boring head, with a B&S 9 TANGED arbor. This surprised me. This company made good tools, and the arbors are NOT replaceable- so it is original.

Would this concern you? Swinging a 3-3/8 head and then a bar extending off of that?

I know B&S #9 is pretty big, close to MT4. But no drawbar? And the mill I am getting has a 1/2-13 drawbar.m I even considered putting it in the lathe and tapping it out for 1/2-13 VeRy carefully.. (8

I don't want to buy something I'll regret- any thoughts from experience?

Thank you!

Bernie

 

[toag]

you could cut off drill and tap the end, though how you hold it would be tough (being tapered)... maybe by the boring head itself, with a steady on the taper.
i'd use a existing collet as a reference, doesn't sound too crazy

 

[LJP]

I got an old Bridgeport (brand) boring head with a damaged arbor. Someone had done a terrible job trying to turn the taper down, but only for 1" at the end. I chucked in the 4 jaw, holding it by the head, and dialed it in. I turned the taper to a straight shaft that fits in a 13/16" R8 collet and use it in the Bridgeport. No problem.
Larry

 

[itsme_Bernie]

you could cut off drill and tap the end, though how you hold it would be tough (being tapered)... maybe by the boring head itself, with a steady on the taper.
i'd use a existing collet as a reference, doesn't sound too crazy

Exactly what it was thinking Jerry- I though some folks with more experience with these could say "nah, it's just fine like it is!" ... Hah hah- but I guess worst case scenario is that I put it in a chuck and the taper in a steady rest, and drill and tap it out for the drawbar.


Bernie

 

[Bill C.]

Someone offered me a very high quality Universal Precision boring head, with a B&S 9 TANGED arbor. This surprised me. This company made good tools, and the arbors are NOT replaceable- so it is original.

Would this concern you? Swinging a 3-3/8 head and then a bar extending off of that?

I know B&S #9 is pretty big, close to MT4. But no drawbar? And the mill I am getting has a 1/2-13 drawbar.m I even considered putting it in the lathe and tapping it out for 1/2-13 VeRy carefully.. (8

I don't want to buy something I'll regret- any thoughts from experience?

Thank you!

Bernie

Bernie you have a good point, does your mill have a slot for a tang? If it doesn't then drill out the center of the tang and tap for the 1/2"-13 thread. The rod only keeps the head from falling out. Tne taper is the driving force.

There is another trick my boss used. He had me grind a taper for an adapter, he used Prussian Blue (paint) to see if the tapers matched. Basically you put a thin coat of paint on the boring head then press it in the spindle. Remove it and see if all surfaces of the spindle are covered with paint. If all areas are covered then the tapers are good. May need a mirror and flash light to check.

 

[toag]

agreed. chuck er up and give it what for. let us know how it turned out

 

[pineyfolks]

I came into a lot of #9 tooling and that's what I did. Drill & tap them. I didn't do the boring head or drill chuck arbors as there isn't as much side pressure as a milling arbor.

 

[Senna]

Bernie, I had the same reservations as you with regard to a tanged arbor staying in the spindle.
On my B&S 10 the facemill arbor I got was tanged and I was assured that it'd be just fine in my mill.
They were right.
I run a three inch facemill on it and there has been no problem with it slipping or falling out.
While I prefer a drawbar, if the tooling I get has a tanged arbor I no longer sweat it.
I'm not sure how easy a drill and tap it would be either.

 

[itsme_Bernie]

I came into a lot of #9 tooling and that's what I did. Drill & tap them. I didn't do the boring head or drill chuck arbors as there isn't as much side pressure as a milling arbor.

Bernie, I had the same reservations as you with regard to a tanged arbor staying in the spindle.
On my B&S 10 the facemill arbor I got was tanged and I was assured that it'd be just fine in my mill.
They were right.
I run a three inch facemill on it and there has been no problem with it slipping or falling out.
While I prefer a drawbar, if the tooling I get has a tanged arbor I no longer sweat it.
I'm not sure how easy a drill and tap it would be either.

I was thinking that it was designed that way for a reason. This boring head has existed for at least 60 years, and does not show signs of being thrown across the room! And like I said, it is. It a replaceable arbor, so it was designed by a somewhat renowned, reputable company.

You know, you guys are getting me to thinking- the reason it is probably most important to have a drawbar with a mill, or drill chuck, is that the forces could tend to pull the mill down and OUT.

I am still nervous about a facing mill with 3/4 inch bars, potentially extending out an inch or two outside the 3-3/8 head itself. I my drill and tap it after I try it out and see.

I am not terribly concerned about doing it, as a steady rest around the tang end, with soft jaws, would allow a pretty simple setup I think.


Bernie

 

[Bill C.]

I was thinking that it was designed that way for a reason. This boring head has existed for at least 60 years, and does not show signs of being thrown across the room! And like I said, it is. It a replaceable arbor, so it was designed by a somewhat renowned, reputable company.

You know, you guys are getting me to thinking- the reason it is probably most important to have a drawbar with a mill, or drill chuck, is that the forces could tend to pull the mill down and OUT.

I am still nervous about a facing mill with 3/4 inch bars, potentially extending out an inch or two outside the 3-3/8 head itself. I my drill and tap it after I try it out and see.

I am not terribly concerned about doing it, as a steady rest around the tang end, with soft jaws, would allow a pretty simple setup I think.


Bernie

I have use radial arm drill presses with power feeds. That would be the only example I can think of that would use a tang to drive a boring head.

Good luck.