Table Question

[ChazzC]

Here's one showing the right end of the table:

If you zoom in you can get an idea of where the taper pins are located (I sharpened the photo as much as possible - it's not hi-res to start with).

 

[Richard King 2]

Chazz you and I agree I think. I am telling jmltinnc who asked the question. He should let us know if the table binds up when the table is moved to the far end of the travel left and right. If it does he needs to take out the dowel pins and do what I said in my long reply.

 

[tq60]

It looks like these become the end caps for the table.

They should not be above table.

Lay a straight edge like a steel ruler on its side across the table and the flange then place light behind and take a good photo.

Use feeler gage to measure gap.

Contact manufacturer, it should not be like this, see what they have to say.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

[jmltinnc]

I love weekends - there is a lot of activity and good questions/suggestions - thanks!

As stated, I have a Weiss machine (nearly) identical to the PM. I used this forum because it exists - lucky for me! The PM uses a tapered pin as stated on their parts page; the Weis calls for a A6 x 16 pin - shorter but with no detail if it is tapered. In the end they look like they are just roll (spring) pins and the only way to know is to pull one. Regarding the misalignment, we are talking about the left and right flanges that carry the leadscrew, dials, and handwheels. Both are misaligned with respect to the table - one corner low, two corners fail the fingernail test, and one corner is probably .010" too high. No, I didn't measure it, just started licking my wounds.

To Richard King 2, there is little chance of removing the pins without taking the flanges off, for the holes are blind. One pin, the side that has the highest corner protrudes a bit and I am tempted to try some sharp dykes to pull the pin out with the flange in place. Other options are:

• Loosen the flange bolts and if the pins and flanges are tapered it will pull the pins
• Just take the flange off and then pull the pin for inspection

If they are tapered, I am flummoxed why so. Seems the pins are acting as dowels and so would be straight. Maybe they are for ease of assembly - to register the placement of the flange relative to the table. If so, they failed miserably. For the record, I did loosen the RH flange bolts and try a dead blow with no success. To another Good Samaritan's post, I have no binding or otherwise strange behavior when moving the table. Actually, it is quite smooth with little backlash. Once again, coming from a Newb, I am impressed with the quality and amount of machine I got for my money. With factory-installed 3-axis DRO and shipping it was $2,800 and came in about 2 weeks. Yes, if I had the means to move and the room to install a full-sized used knee machine, I would have. Unfortunately, a tabletop is what I can have.

I don't know how often I will clamp work (that will extend off the right edge of the table) directly to the table - Newb, remember?, but I can see it happening. If the flanges were lower, I would not be grousing, but higher is another story.

To the King, I would like to take you up on the PM but really do not know what questions to ask. You described removing the pin, repositioning the flange, then reaming or drilling a hole for proper registration. I like the idea of a larger pin (wish I thought of that) but we are talking a hand drill here and accuracy plummets which then begs the question - do I need the pin at all? Loctite the bolt and call it a day? And maybe that should be my first question to you, Sir. Let me ponder for I wish not to waste your time.

Thanks, All!

 

[Richard King 2]

I could get the pin out in 10 minutes, no big deal.

 

[Larry42]

one corner is probably .010" too high

A file? A woodworking router, variable speed control(?), with a small cup wheel? Die grinder mounted in a sled.

 

[graham-xrf]

Just so I can become un-confused..
My thanks to @Richard King 2 for the picture of the WBM , and to @ChazzC, for the picture of the VM25-L
It looks like Weiss may have one product based on the G0704 and clones, and another looking like the Precision Matthews sort.
PM is usually recognized by the shape of the base under the table, made to give greater Z-axis travel.

What has me puzzled is that in the picture of the VM-25L, the table casting ends might or might not be continuous, as they would be in the Precision Matthews product, which has a casting that includes the ends built in.

This is where @jmltinnc can help, since he has the actual thing to look at.
The posting with the series of pictures of the clones is here --> LINK
Looking real close, I think the Chazz's VM25L picture has separate end plates, and may be from the same mold as G0704, and all the other badged clones.

 

[graham-xrf]

Here's one showing the right end of the table:

OK - many thanks for the second picture. Now I think I am up to speed on it.

 

[jmltinnc]

Hi Folks, an update for you and your thoughts...

I wrote Weiss yesterday regarding my VM25L-G and to my amazement they replied this AM at 5:24 (yes, they are a Chinese manufacturer). Right out of the gate, the person told me it was a manufacturing error and claimed they noticed it not long ago and are working to correct the problem. He promises a video today of how to repair it, which basically calls for removing the pins (yes, they too are tapered) and grinding the tops to lower the brackets (support flanges). Sounds kinda hokey if they perform a dowel function... Hopefully, they are an assembly aid.

Here is the table and pin in question:

Thank you all.
John

 

[ChazzC]

Hi Folks, an update for you and your thoughts...

I wrote Weiss yesterday regarding my VM25L-G and to my amazement they replied this AM at 5:24 (yes, they are a Chinese manufacturer). Right out of the gate, the person told me it was a manufacturing error and claimed they noticed it not long ago and are working to correct the problem. He promises a video today of how to repair it, which basically calls for removing the pins (yes, they too are tapered) and grinding the tops to lower the brackets (support flanges). Sounds kinda hokey if they perform a dowel function... Hopefully, they are an assembly aid.

Here is the table and pin in question:


Thank you all.
John

Ask them to ship you replacements: I have found that most manufacturers will do this, particularly if this is a common problem. I have also found that I get faster responses from some China-based companies than many who state "Proudly Made in the U.S.A."