Super glue and hold down related questions

WobblyHand

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I have a little project to copy a bed bracket. The part I need to duplicate is only 1/8" thick flat and has a slot milled in it so it can engage in a receptacle. I have the piece, but not the receptacle. So I got a piece of wood and covered it in painter's tape and then super glued the back of the workpiece to the painter's tape. I clamped the piece to the table of my mill.
PXL_20201019_181520849.jpg
I was able to fly cut the part to the correct thickness and mill the part to size. Unfortunately, the tape adhesive failed at the wood interface and the part started to move. The super glue did not fail. Fortunately, the piece is still ok. So I peeled everything off and need to start again. One of the issues is the clamps are very large compared to the available dimensions of the mill stick out. It was difficult to set up without interference with the spindle (or spindle light) and the studs of the hold downs.

For the redo, I was thinking of using a smaller piece of 6061 3/8" thick with different hold downs for the sacrificial plate. For the hold downs, envisioning something simple like an inverted "L". But I'm not sure how to make the L cam downward and hold down the 3/8" thick plate. Would something like this be ok, or what do you suggest?
PXL_20201020_135215024.jpg
It seems there are all sorts of commercial items, but the choices are difficult to wade through. Most assume you know how they work, how to use them and how adjustable they are. As a beginner, I don't know any of that. A lot of the clamps are quite expensive, so I thought I might make something simpler. I realize the design above is non-adjustable, at the moment, I just want to finish what I had started. I'm looking for a simple lower profile hold down. If it matters, my tee slots are 12mm with 3/8-16 threads.

Here's a picture of what I'm trying to copy and how far I got before the tape let go. The aluminum is what I want to use for the new sacrificial plate. Wish it was larger, but I'm finding it hard to justify cutting up my limited stock just for this. The dimensions on the plate are very rough but give an idea. I found that none of them were accurate to fabricate from. (I didn't mark up the plate.) The counter bores are not required in the application, but the holes are. Basically, all I have to do is a slot and the 3 holes plus clean up. I'd stick it in a vise, but don't think it is wise to mill the slot that way. Is there a simpler (better) way to do this without making the hold downs? Although in the picture these pieces look to be of different size, they are the same. Thanks for any and all help.
PXL_20201020_142745659.jpg
 
If it were me I'd keep it simple, drill and countersink the holes, then use wood screws to attach it to the piece of wood you were using before.

Yes, figuring out clamping systems is definitely a good thing but for this part it doesn't seem necessary.


John
 
I've had good success using 3M VHB tape for holding thin parts while milling or drilling. Attach the workpiece to a sacrificial piece of metal or MDF that is then clamped to the table.
 
If it were me I'd keep it simple, drill and countersink the holes, then use wood screws to attach it to the piece of wood you were using before.

Yes, figuring out clamping systems is definitely a good thing but for this part it doesn't seem necessary.


John
The first time reading your comment through I totally missed your point. Now I get it.
Not positive if #8 wood screws would be strong enough, (maybe a #10 would fit) but they would be a lot better than what I had before. Interesting idea! Thanks!
 
Painter's tape and wood don't play well together. a smooth surface would work bettre. But use the tape to face the surface and drill the holes and then screw the part to a backing strip to cut the slot.

An alternative is to make the part oversized and use the excess to hold the part for facing.aqnd drilling the holes. Then use the holes to screw the part for profiling.
 
I've had good success using 3M VHB tape for holding thin parts while milling or drilling. Attach the workpiece to a sacrificial piece of metal or MDF that is then clamped to the table.
The clamping is the 'hard' part for me. The clamps and studs interfere with the spindle and spindle light, preventing milling. That's why I was asking about the clamps. Even if when I use matthewsx 's idea, some kind of hold down clamps would be good for future projects.
 
Painter's tape and wood don't play well together. a smooth surface would work bettre. But use the tape to face the surface and drill the holes and then screw the part to a backing strip to cut the slot.

An alternative is to make the part oversized and use the excess to hold the part for facing.aqnd drilling the holes. Then use the holes to screw the part for profiling.
Thanks. Almost finished before the lifting occured. Oh well. Only thing I'm irritated about is retramming the part to the table. I was uncertain about the wood being good for adhesion. Next time, I'll use metal.
 
Here is a simple clamp that is easy to make and will apply downward pressure to the work. Can be made in any size you need. Similar in concept to what you have been using. A stud goes through the hole to a tee nut. As you tighten the nut on the stud the end of the clamp is forced down against the work.

clamp.jpg
 
Here is a simple clamp that is easy to make and will apply downward pressure to the work. Can be made in any size you need. Similar in concept to what you have been using. A stud goes through the hole to a tee nut. As you tighten the nut on the stud the end of the clamp is forced down against the work.

View attachment 341255
I have to confess, my sketch was an idea in the pre-implementation stage. Haven't fabbed it. I was asking for feedback on the design.

Now, back to your design... For beginners, how does one make the rounded part? I wouldn't want to file 4 of these! By beginners, I mean people who are early in their tool and gizmo collection phase. :) In my case, I do have an unmounted vise rotary gizmo, but no rotary table. (You know, the silly contraptions sold with vises that take up precious Z travel.) I have been looking at rotary tables, but that might have to be for next year. I'd like to be able to machine curved slots at some point.

Does the short leg need to be longer than the height of the part one is clamping? (I would think so.) What's a good rule of thumb for the length of the short leg? Like 0-25% longer than the height of the part?
 
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