Stuck Mt2 Taper

Nix on that idea, there STS. If it should happen to loosen up due to side pressure, it would fall down into the work and if there is a tang on the end of the arbor, it would still try to drive the chuck and end mill. This is dangerous, and why we never recommend (nor does any factory manual I am aware of) using a drill chuck in a drill press as a milling machine in the first place.

This is NOT a valid method of removing a stuck Morse taper. Please do not attempt.

And let's not get into a discussion about proper or improper; safe or not. I'm just exercising Administrative privilege and killing that part of this thread.
 
Is there a drawbar here?

If the taper has a threaded center then it can have a grade 8 bolt threaded into it.

Be sure to get full engagement.

Next either fashion a puller by adding a couple long bolts and straps to apply pressure or locate a thick wall pipe or large nut that will fit over the point and rest the unit on its nose on the thickest part of the concrete you can find.

Get the heaviest hammer you can find and just use a dropping force as the energy transfer does not really need the swing.

This is how we removed some real stubborn taper pins.

If Mt2 maybe no threaded part so another option is grease but more force.

Is the back end threaded in any way?

If so a plug can be made that will screw in then drill and tap plug for grease fitting and use grease gun to force it out.

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I would like to know (and see pics also) of what kind of attachment is actually stuck. If it is a tool holder, I can envision turning a piece of all thread (grade B-7) to fit like an end mill, with flats and all, and create a jack plate and using a nut behind it, you could put quite a bit of axial force on the taper. That is depending on just what is stuck. I'm sure that anyone here who has done mechanic work ( a lot, I know) has used pullers, but not just straight out pulled a XXXX out of or off of a XXXX. With considerable tension on the puller, THEN a good smack on the small end of the taper, by whatever means gains the most energy transfer stands a good chance, IMO, to release the taper.

But one more time.....pics would be good, and we need to know what kind of attachment is on that Morse taper. And whether it can be sacrificed if necessary.
 
Again thanks for all the tips guys. Unfortunately its just me and the kiddo for the next few days so I may not get any time to work on it.

Everyone wants more info and a pic:
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/benchmaster-mh3-new-to-me.49316/
3358-4.jpg
image.jpeg

  • New to me, first time coming apart
  • Kroil is magical
  • Cadillac and Tony, Thanks for keeping us safe
  • I like the hydraulic idea so much that yesterday I bought a tap to make a fitting for the spindle end, 21in
  • Yes those are flats at 9in and no it would not budge with a wrench in the vise
  • Heat gun did not seem to do it, and judging by the drawbar this may have been heated before me
  • My arbor press is not big enough, I may need to find someone who has a press
Again, I'm not sure when I can get to this again but I will keep this updated
 
finding a way to apply a good bit of tension and then shock should get it moving if anything will. It may also just be totally galled/welded in there and you will need to machine it out. Do you have a good size lathe or know someone who does? Although at that point it might be easier to make a new spindle :) it doesn't look super complicated or crazy high precision. Maybe there is room for ISO 30 in there.
L

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Ok looks like a horizontal spindle with the arbor stuck. I would cut a piece of pipe that fits over the arbor and use the nut to put pressure on it then hit it from the back tighten the nut and hit again. If you need to you can heat up the spindle some. while it is under pressure from the nut.
 
You should be able to drive the Morse taper out from the drawbar side. If you can apply a bias force as kd4gij suggested, that will help. Rather than using a plain rod, use a threaded rod to avoid mushrooming the end and possibly worsening the situation. I would engage as many threads as possible to avoid shearing the threads.

It looks like the flats on the spindle are there to hold the spindle stationary when tightening or loosening the drawbar. The parts diagram doesn't show a separate piece.
 
iff all this fails drill out the center of the morse taper this will relieve the pressure and it should come out normally, of course this will ruin he morse taper bill
 
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