Stuck Mt2 Taper

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rrjohnso2000

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I'm having a bit of trouble removing a stuck mt2 tapered horizontal attachment from my Benchmasters mill.

The spindle has been pulled and is in the vise. Protected with custom wood jaw protectors. Have soaked it in atf/acetone. I dropped a steel rod through the drawbar hollow and used my small hammer on it. I moved up to my mid sized hammer and still no movement.

Does anyone have any tips? If I use heat how much should I use. Any help is appreciated
 
got a pic ? i would try heat if its all steel but not to much say 250* evenly heated around, is there a slot for a drift, is it rusted? dose draw bar screw into 2mt?.
 
What is the history of the machine? Did you get it new?

Were you able to remove it before but now you cannot? Or is this the first time trying to remove it?

Answering those questions could help. I had a mt-2 taper shaft stuck in the tail stock of a lathe I bought used. Wouldn't come loose easily and when it did by using a punch on the backside I found it had been glued in. Probably by the prior owner not wanting it to spin and not knowing how to fix that correctly.

Heating then punching it out might work
 
Heat the spindle with a heat gun. After 2 minutes try turning the holder with a gloved hand.Twist and pull down.
If this doesn't work then heat the spindle for 5 minutes.Make sure folded rags are under the spindle in case the taper lets loose.
Usually the draw bar is loosened 1/2" or so and a dead blow hammer frees the taper,might want to try that first if you haven't already.
mike
 
Tapers work because the metal grips at the crystal level, so it's a very intimate bond. So intimate there can be an inclination to grow together if the parts have been in place for a long time or working together under heat. You have to know this to realize that some paired parts come apart with almost explosive force. So never stand with your body in the "flight path" or you can get seriously hurt !!!

A heat gun on the outer part will help, but the real work always ends up being done by shock. A wedge, in the case of drill press bits. Or a brass drift and 10 pound hammer to the small end while the large end is vertical and supported by an anvil or vise jaws opened the correct amount.

Good luck.
 
For an extreme stuck taper I use grease and a rod that fits the hole. Fill the shaft with grease and hit the rod with a hammer.
The hydraulic pressure does the work.
How well this works depends on how well your shaft that you will drive on fits the hole it's driving into. If a low clearance fit is possible then oil is the easiest fluid to use. The looser the fit the heavier the fluid needed to accomplish the hydraulic.
For grease use you must be careful to get only grease and no air pockets. If there are any air pockets it won't work because the air is compressible.
A rag around the top will catch any spray out. Add heat if it won't come out after a few tries. It will sound like your driving metal on metal even though you're not.
I like this system cause if nothing else you are attempting to drive the oil or grease between the two pieces of steel which will loosen them.
 
Did you get them separated ? Tapered horizontal attachment. .?
 
Forgot to grab a pic at lunch.

I heated it up and used my big persuader...nothing. Let's see if some oil worked its way in with heat. I'll try again and then see if some hydraulic action will do it. Thanks for the insight
 
I helped a guy out once who had a dead center stuck, like yours stuck, in his SB tailstock. We tried everything but nothing worked until he soaked it in Kroil for a few days. I still gotta chuckle thinking how easily it came out then. Good luck.
 
If it were a drill press with a chuck on the taper I'd say put an end mill in it and try to mill some metal. That always leads to the taper coming out..

Edited by Admin. Please do not try this unsafe suggestion.
 
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