Stuck chuck.

I like the impact gun idea. When I was on the crew of a Dirt race car occasionally we'd get a bolt or nut that nothing would remove so we would borrow arnold's big impact gun and it never failed even when our impact gun wouldn't do the job. It hit so hard that the person holding on to it would shake violently along with it until the stuck nut surrendered. I've seen it unscrew nuts who's threads were completely galled from overtightening I would take an extension piece and grind a hex in the end of it then chuck the hex, and fire away. The impacts should do the trick.
 
rwdenney said:
My South Bend 14-1/2 uses a 2-1/4x6 threaded spindle. I recently turned a square piece with about 11 of swing to round, which meant a lot of interrupted turning.

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POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

If the water separator is auto draining, that is your drip leg. If you want to do more, add a 10 micron (or finer) auto draining coalescing filter after the separator! Used on Ebay, of course. Either way, that looks great! You will not be disappointed with the results. This is what is there...
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I used the 10” Skinner 4-jaw chuck, which I installed immediately before the project. I’ve switched back and forth between the 10” 4-jaw and the 8” Rohm 3-jaw chuck many times.

I think the interrupted cut pounded that chuck onto the spindle more tightly than it’s ever been, and now I can’t get it off.

I do not use the back gears, of course, and have never had a problem using a 2x4 locked in the chuck jaws, bearing against the ways, and a strap wrench on the spindle pulley. When that didn’t work, I tried a large dead-blow on the 2x4. Nothing. I even heated the backing plate with no effect.

My final attempt was a 4-foot 4x4 in the chuck and a 2-foot cheater pipe on the strap wrench. The strap wrench (a Titan cheapie with a 12” handle and a 1” strap) shattered.

I read stories about people unbolting the chuck from the backing plate and turning off the backing plate, and I just want to throw up. I Do Not Want To Damage The Lathe.

Any ideas?

Please, telling me that this is the reason your lathe has a cam-lock system will not solve my problem, but that’s exactly the responses to such questions I see on PM.

I gotta think people used industrial South Bend lathes for work like this in the past, and we’ve just forgotten their tricks.

Rick “shopping for a better strap wrench with a 24” handle, but worried about that bull gear lock pin” Denney
Click to expand...
I use good firewood .
Start the in slowest speed and put as the chuck is turning.
It little tricky as putting the wood in between the jaw and bedways and before the two hit the get hand out the way.

Dave
 
rwdenney said:
My South Bend 14-1/2 uses a 2-1/4x6 threaded spindle. I recently turned a square piece with about 11 of swing to round, which meant a lot of interrupted turning.

www.hobby-machinist.com

POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

If the water separator is auto draining, that is your drip leg. If you want to do more, add a 10 micron (or finer) auto draining coalescing filter after the separator! Used on Ebay, of course. Either way, that looks great! You will not be disappointed with the results. This is what is there...
www.hobby-machinist.com www.hobby-machinist.com

I used the 10” Skinner 4-jaw chuck, which I installed immediately before the project. I’ve switched back and forth between the 10” 4-jaw and the 8” Rohm 3-jaw chuck many times.

I think the interrupted cut pounded that chuck onto the spindle more tightly than it’s ever been, and now I can’t get it off.

I do not use the back gears, of course, and have never had a problem using a 2x4 locked in the chuck jaws, bearing against the ways, and a strap wrench on the spindle pulley. When that didn’t work, I tried a large dead-blow on the 2x4. Nothing. I even heated the backing plate with no effect.

My final attempt was a 4-foot 4x4 in the chuck and a 2-foot cheater pipe on the strap wrench. The strap wrench (a Titan cheapie with a 12” handle and a 1” strap) shattered.

I read stories about people unbolting the chuck from the backing plate and turning off the backing plate, and I just want to throw up. I Do Not Want To Damage The Lathe.

Any ideas?

Please, telling me that this is the reason your lathe has a cam-lock system will not solve my problem, but that’s exactly the responses to such questions I see on PM.

I gotta think people used industrial South Bend lathes for work like this in the past, and we’ve just forgotten their tricks.

Rick “shopping for a better strap wrench with a 24” handle, but worried about that bull gear lock pin” Denney
Click to expand...
FYI
A stuck chuck happens when put the chuck .
When put chuck tighten before start the motor.
Thd torque from the motor will tighten the chuck on if losses.

Dave
 
Some of these ideas are brilliant, some funny, and some downright scary.

In the end, I got it loose.

1. The plastic bull-gear locks one buys on eBay are worthless. 5 foot-pounds pops them loose. Waste of money, but at least not that much money.

2. The Titan strap wrench I had was a piece of crap. It’s aluminum. Maybe it’s okay for tightening plastic drainage pipe, but it shattered with probably less than 100 ft-pounds of torque.

3. The Reed ductile iron strap wrench with the 24” handle should do better. That is probably the long-term solution. At least I’m hoping so.

4. Many of the ideas I’d already tried. And I always protect the ways with wood when messing with chucks. And I had already tried heat, though not after removing the chuck from the backing plate.

5. The chuck was tight before I turned on the lathe. But that interrupted cut on a square 1-1/2”-thick 8x8” plate just added too much pounding. I cannot promise that I checked the threads for spotless cleanliness. I will next time.

6. In the end, I did just what I shouldn’t do. After chucking up a 4’-long 4x4, I engaged the back gears to lock the spindle and gently added pressure, fine tuning my senses to that itch in the base of my spine that says “too much!” The chuck broke loose well before getting to that point.

7. I appreciate everyone’s ideas.

Rick “installed a 1/2” collet for an end mill and milled a T-nut after that” Denney
 
Last edited:
rwdenney said:
Some of these ideas are brilliant, some funny, and some downright scary.

In the end, I got it loose.

1. The plastic bull-gear locks one buys on eBay are worthless. 5 foot-pounds pops them loose. Waste of money, but at least not that much money.

2. The Titan strap wrench I had was a piece of crap. It’s aluminum. Maybe it’s okay for tightening plastic drainage pipe, but it shattered with probably less than 100 ft-pounds of torque.

3. The Reed ductile iron strap wrench with the 24” handle should do better. That is probably the long-term solution. At least I’m hoping so.

4. Many of the ideas I’d already tried. And I always protect the ways with wood when messing with chucks. And I had already tried heat, though not after removing the chuck from the backing plate.

5. The chuck was tight before I turned on the lathe. But that interrupted cut on a square 1-1/2”-thick 8x8” plate just added too much pounding. I cannot promise that I checked the threads for spotless cleanliness. I will next time.

6. In the end, I did just what I shouldn’t do. After chucking up a 4’-long 4x4, I engaged the back gears to lock the spindle and gently added pressure, fine tuning my senses to that itch in the base of my spine that says “too much!” The chuck broke loose well before getting to that point.

7. I appreciate everyone’s ideas.

Rick “installed a 1/2” collet for an end mill and milled a T-nut after that” Denney
Click to expand...
That what said in 1970 when had problem.

Dave
 
Steady, continuous pressure is easier on the backgears than a sudden impact- glad you got it
I think a big reason people break backgears is they start pounding
 
Firstram said:
Lock the spindle with your strap wrench and chuck up a 6' 2x4 in the 4 jaw so it sticks out towards the front. Hang as much weight as you can on the end of the 2x4 without tipping the lathe over and turn the lights off for the night. The weight should only be a foot or less above the floor, the constant torque will break it loose while you're sleeping.
Click to expand...

and Kroil?
 
Smithdoor said:
FYI
A stuck chuck happens when put the chuck .
When put chuck tighten before start the motor.
Thd torque from the motor will tighten the chuck on if losses.

Dave
Click to expand...

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Cut yourself some washers made from parchment paper and place one between the chuck and the spindle register. This will break a huge amount of the friction holding the two together. The paper doesn't interfere with the chuck at all, so you can leave it there all the time.

Another way to unstick a chuck is to lock a bar in the jaws of the chuck horizontally (you will NOT be operating under power), then lock the spindle with the back gears, then hang about 50 or more pounds on the end of the bar. A 3 foot bar with 50 lbs will give you 150 ft-lbs of continuous force on the chuck. A four footer will give you 200 ft-lbs, etc, etc. Once on and loaded up, just walk away. Usually within 24 hours, the chuck has decided to quit the foolish games and just give up.
 
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