Stranded wire

kmmk86 said:
This will be 220v plug and receptacle
Click to expand...

There's a lot of those. The purpose of the different ones are to keep you (or anyone) from plugging devices into an incompatible supply.

Is it the three pin, vertical spade type that looks like a giant version of the standard 120v household receptacle?

If so, (this is so wrong...... But if you're careful and dilligent.....) you're gonna be "stuffing" those wires in there. Before you void the return policy, make sure the bundle of three will fit through it AND clamp securely, AND still close the assemblies. They might fit OK since they're not made into a proper cord. After that, I don't think you'll find any that will accept the 4 gauge wire at the pins. My first thought is that you can (probably.....) find a crimp lug (rated at 50 amps or better) and lock that under the screws that come in the plug/receptacle. Might depend on how the screws are oriented in the assembled position.

But however it works out..... Jankey connections make heat, smoke, and fire faster than undersized wires. Just make sure it's rock solid, proper connections, and it'll work. ("Proper"..... I hope you're taking that in context..... It's an extension cord, OUTSIDE the wall, that you presumably have chain of custody over while it's in use...) Sketchy work in the connections department usually works perfectly, and lasts just long enough to make you start to feel comfortable with it. Watch your details and I'm sure it'll work fine.
 
Jake M said:
There's a lot of those. The purpose of the different ones are to keep you (or anyone) from plugging devices into an incompatible supply.

Is it the three pin, vertical spade type that looks like a giant version of the standard 120v household receptacle?

If so, (this is so wrong...... But if you're careful and dilligent.....) you're gonna be "stuffing" those wires in there. Before you void the return policy, make sure the bundle of three will fit through it AND clamp securely, AND still close the assemblies. They might fit OK since they're not made into a proper cord. After that, I don't think you'll find any that will accept the 4 gauge wire at the pins. My first thought is that you can (probably.....) find a crimp lug (rated at 50 amps or better) and lock that under the screws that come in the plug/receptacle. Might depend on how the screws are oriented in the assembled position.

But however it works out..... Jankey connections make heat, smoke, and fire faster than undersized wires. Just make sure it's rock solid, proper connections, and it'll work. ("Proper"..... I hope you're taking that in context..... It's an extension cord, OUTSIDE the wall, that you presumably have chain of custody over while it's in use...) Sketchy work in the connections department usually works perfectly, and lasts just long enough to make you start to feel comfortable with it. Watch your details and I'm sure it'll work fine.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your input, if I can't get all the wires into the lugs I probably won't try it. I see what your saying and as I'm no electrician I will definitely heed your warning. Thanks again
 
Isn’t that a dual voltage machine, are you welding something too thick to use 110 volts?
 
My Miller welder came with a NEMA10-50 plug installed. I made up a 50' extension using 4 AWG aluminum triplex. I had no problem wiring either the plug or flush mount socket for the extension. I also didn't experience any drop in performance when using the extension. A 20' extension made from 4AWG copper would have a line resistance of .01 ohms. At a 50 amp draw, that would be a voltage drop of .5 volts. Insignificant. A triplex extension would be rather s6tiff but I would expect that you wouldn't be moving it much. You could experience wire breakage if you coiled and uncoiled it often so it would be best to leave straight if possible. Otherwise, coil it in as large a loop as practical. A 2' diameter coil would only be three coils. I taped mine about every two feet with vinyl electrical tape to keep it neat with no increase in stiffness.
 
That's still disappating 25 W, going by I²R, jeez. Resistance is futile if <1 ohm
 
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