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Starting to outfit a home shop. Need some advice
- Thread starter Sunpilot
- Start date
A couple of points to mull over. PM or Grizzly, the 1236 gunsmith lathe is usually heavier. That makes a huge difference in the operation of the machine. Ditto for the mill. A 2000 lb mill will run circles around a 400 lb mill. The smaller mill is perfectly capable of doing what you want, but may take 3-4 times as long. You can take much better cuts on the 1236 gunsmith lathe then my1228. Same for a Bridgeport vs my PM30-MV mill. Try to stay with a D1 mount on the lathe or other mount that is more then just screwed on. Then you can run the lathe in reverse. Yes you can run a screw chuck in reverse as many here will point out but there is always the possibility that the chuck can come off. Way too many reasons for running in reverse than to cover here. The light stuff will need more setup and fussing over then an old iron beast but it is a good learning experience. If you decide to go with old Iron, you may need to factor in a 3 phase converter.
As pointed out, if you can get a good quality used machine, then you will like it. However if it needs any work, that could put the brakes on in a hurry. By myself, I couldn't handle fixing the machines, so I bought new. Now with a "decent shop setup" I am looking at bargains to try to restore. Lots of stuff on Craigslist & FB. I am doing Gunsmithing stuff and starting out building steam engines, plus general repairs for a small company.
Money!!
When you buy tooling, really research it. You can get mill boring heads for $25+ all day long. They screw together. I bought mine as a one piece for $ 100. Used it twice in reverse in the last two years and it saved the day. Rotary tables, get one vertical/horizontal with matching tail-stock. When you need it, beats shimming with machinist jack.
Same with mics & measuring equipment. I use Shars & Igauging for everyday use. I can always stay within .002 of everything I want to do. If I want better then that, I use Starett & Mititoyo in a room temperature shop. I cry less on an $30 Igauging DTI dropped on the loor than $150 Best Test.
If you buy a $500 dollar machine or a $10K machine, you will eat up tons of money on tooling. Buy the best at good prices or really good make do at cheaper prices. When you first start out you will need to buy something every time you fire up the machine. It takes awhile before you can just walk up and say I have the stuff to make this. 2 years for me and I am still jumping into the rabbit hole.
Welcome aboard and good luck with your hobby.
As pointed out, if you can get a good quality used machine, then you will like it. However if it needs any work, that could put the brakes on in a hurry. By myself, I couldn't handle fixing the machines, so I bought new. Now with a "decent shop setup" I am looking at bargains to try to restore. Lots of stuff on Craigslist & FB. I am doing Gunsmithing stuff and starting out building steam engines, plus general repairs for a small company.
Money!!
When you buy tooling, really research it. You can get mill boring heads for $25+ all day long. They screw together. I bought mine as a one piece for $ 100. Used it twice in reverse in the last two years and it saved the day. Rotary tables, get one vertical/horizontal with matching tail-stock. When you need it, beats shimming with machinist jack.
Same with mics & measuring equipment. I use Shars & Igauging for everyday use. I can always stay within .002 of everything I want to do. If I want better then that, I use Starett & Mititoyo in a room temperature shop. I cry less on an $30 Igauging DTI dropped on the loor than $150 Best Test.
If you buy a $500 dollar machine or a $10K machine, you will eat up tons of money on tooling. Buy the best at good prices or really good make do at cheaper prices. When you first start out you will need to buy something every time you fire up the machine. It takes awhile before you can just walk up and say I have the stuff to make this. 2 years for me and I am still jumping into the rabbit hole.
Welcome aboard and good luck with your hobby.
Good to know. I wasn't aware of that. ThanksAny PM machine with a T in it is made in Taiwan.
Thanks for the reply. Yep, golf carts are all over the place out here! LOL I've been looking at Grizzly also. Lots to think about when a big chunk of cash is on the table!Welcome to the game Sunpilot.
You mentioned Grizzly. I am of the opinion Grizzly also has 100% Taiwan machines.
If you are looking for better fit and finish quality, it seems new Taiwan machine tools have the advantage over the Chinese.
I agree with the others that say, buy old American iron, you'll never regret it.
In some parts of the country these machines come up on a regular basis.
I can see where AZ would be an exception.
Now, if you want to buy a good used golf cart, AZ may be the place -wink.
What ever you end up doing, you'll get plenty of help along the way.
Good idea. I sold my table mounted saw last year... mistake!Put a good quality horizontal band saw on the machine list. You need that to cut down stock to work with and will use it frequently.
I see machines for sale all over the midwest and east. I grew up in Pittsburgh and my dad was a machinist. I'll look them up and see what they have to offer. I'll be headed back east in June to see family, so maybe it might work out.Look up a company in Cleveland Ohio called Taz see what they have available and the prices.
There stuff is sweeeet
Thanks for letting me know about LA. I wasn't aware of the machines sold out there. You're right, a road trip would be fun and it isn't too far to haul a machine! I'll have to try searchtempest too. Thanks!Expand your search to LA. It is a one day drive. Make it a fun road trip. Lots of machines for sale in the LA area. I use searchtempest.com when searching for stuff on CL.
Frank
You mentioned a lot of good points for me. If I could find a decent used machine I would love that. I love restoring old things. Hell, I might even find a way to make money buying, restoring, and selling old iron. I'm aware of the things I will need to go with the machines. Everything costs these days, but some stuff can be made in your own shop... that would be the ultimate reward, making somethging when you need it! I already have some measuring and gauges, etc. I am of the school that I buy the best I can afford. Good things can last a lifetime. Thanks for your guidance, I appreciate all the advice and replies I am getting on this forum.A couple of points to mull over. PM or Grizzly, the 1236 gunsmith lathe is usually heavier. That makes a huge difference in the operation of the machine. Ditto for the mill. A 2000 lb mill will run circles around a 400 lb mill. The smaller mill is perfectly capable of doing what you want, but may take 3-4 times as long. You can take much better cuts on the 1236 gunsmith lathe then my1228. Same for a Bridgeport vs my PM30-MV mill. Try to stay with a D1 mount on the lathe or other mount that is more then just screwed on. Then you can run the lathe in reverse. Yes you can run a screw chuck in reverse as many here will point out but there is always the possibility that the chuck can come off. Way too many reasons for running in reverse than to cover here. The light stuff will need more setup and fussing over then an old iron beast but it is a good learning experience. If you decide to go with old Iron, you may need to factor in a 3 phase converter.
As pointed out, if you can get a good quality used machine, then you will like it. However if it needs any work, that could put the brakes on in a hurry. By myself, I couldn't handle fixing the machines, so I bought new. Now with a "decent shop setup" I am looking at bargains to try to restore. Lots of stuff on Craigslist & FB. I am doing Gunsmithing stuff and starting out building steam engines, plus general repairs for a small company.
Money!!
When you buy tooling, really research it. You can get mill boring heads for $25+ all day long. They screw together. I bought mine as a one piece for $ 100. Used it twice in reverse in the last two years and it saved the day. Rotary tables, get one vertical/horizontal with matching tail-stock. When you need it, beats shimming with machinist jack.
Same with mics & measuring equipment. I use Shars & Igauging for everyday use. I can always stay within .002 of everything I want to do. If I want better then that, I use Starett & Mititoyo in a room temperature shop. I cry less on an $30 Igauging DTI dropped on the loor than $150 Best Test.
If you buy a $500 dollar machine or a $10K machine, you will eat up tons of money on tooling. Buy the best at good prices or really good make do at cheaper prices. When you first start out you will need to buy something every time you fire up the machine. It takes awhile before you can just walk up and say I have the stuff to make this. 2 years for me and I am still jumping into the rabbit hole.
Welcome aboard and good luck with your hobby.
Frank
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2020
- Messages
- 1,756
I am in Cleveland and I see alot of used equipment. Let me know if I can help.
One of my customers is around the corner from HGR so if you need someone to look at something there I can do that for you as well.
One of my customers is around the corner from HGR so if you need someone to look at something there I can do that for you as well.
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2016
- Messages
- 2,645
Tooling wise I buy as little as possible and make as much as I can. For example I made a QCTP and a dozen tool holders for my lathe. Have steel to make 5 or 6 more if I need to. Made a spider for the out board end of the spindle. An ER32 collet chuck for the spindle. And more. My home made stuff typically isn't pretty to look at but functions nicely.
You will get lots of support in making your own tooling.
You will get lots of support in making your own tooling.