Starting a new shop building

Personal experience putting an epoxy coating on a shop floor. In about 1987 I had a new shop space constructed. 4,000 Sq feet of an 8,000' metal building. I did not own it, was on a long term lease. The site had been low land and been filled with about 4' of compacted clay. About 25' from a major drainage ditch. As soon as the building was fully enclosed and most work completed, I scrubbed the concrete with Trisodium phosphate, rinsed twice and used shop vac to pickup the excess water. Then I washed it down with dilute HCL, rinsed and vacuumed. Let it dry a few days and then using an a large paint roller applied a coat of Pittsburg Paint Co, two part epoxy in light tan. The next day I did the same, a 2nd coat.
The surface was slightly slick initially but that went away with normal use. 38 years later, there has been no peeling and most of the area is still OK. the heavy traffic areas have worn through. Steel wheeled shop carts have been used on it the entire time. I've had several additions done to the building and along the way purchased it. I maxed out the site @ 25,000 sq. ft.

Unfortunately one small office area got any additional floor coating. It was done by someone else with urethane and did not hold up well. Most likely from poor surface prep. There was always a rush to get the additions into production. I wish we had taken the time to also coat them in epoxy. It is so much easier to keep clean. The lighting is better because of the reflectiveness of the surface. Oil doesn't soak in.

The building is a ridged frame, 80' clear span. 18' side walls, 4" fiberglass insulation, 8' high white finished steel liner, 2 loading docks. two of the additions have translucent skylights (very affective lighting.) The last addition has large windows located high above the floor for natural lighting. There are 5 OH doors. (+ two dock doors) 3 of them only there to allow lots of air circulation through the shop. The main OHD is 16 x14' high. Allows semi's to back in when flatbeds need to be unloaded in ****ty weather. That area is normally the main corridor for the forklift loading of 14' high racks.

What would I do differently if starting over and now having hind sight? More insulation but the original building manufacturer would only allow a max of 4". Actually I'd do a concrete wall panel system with foam core now. Very little difference in cost and much more durable. The ridged steel frame intrudes into the interior space a considerable amount. I'd use more skylights and high windows. Higher quality OHDs were used on the last addition (steel on both sides and foam core.) Much better. Roof or high vents on the walls to dump heat in the summer would have been a good idea. Having OHDs on opposite sides of the building has helped a lot with heat dumping and ventilation. Heating is radiant overhead gas and is OK. Original power was 500A 3 phase Sq D I line @ 208V (city will not provide 220/240 because of the loading on their system) We've had to add transformers for 460V & 380V equipment power. Also had to add additional main panels. If I had it to do over I would have done buss bar distribution.

I'm retired and lease the building for a nice income. There are maintenance costs that come in jumps. Triple net leases.
 
One thing I got to do that worked well for me. Before moving anything in *at all*, clean your floors and do all the mitigation - saw cuts, surface prep etc... Once you move anything in, you will be moving it dozens of times.

If you have 2 overhead doors, you can designate one areas as storage, and prep everything up to a saw cut. Then move most everything in, and prep the rest... More work, but you gotta do what you gotta do!
 
If I could have done one thing differently, I would have taken the day off to keep an eye on the concrete pump crew the day they poured my shop slab. In fact, I probably would have spent the day sitting at a card table in back, cleaning my revolver and complaining about being overcaffeinated. Because when those guys saw me leave for the day, they knew I wouldn't figure out they were shorted a couple yards until it was too late. And now I live with myself knowing I paid high dollars for the thinnest, crookedest, most cracked up slab in town. I hoped it wouldn't be as bad as it seemed, but it just seems worse the more I think about it.
 
cleaning my revolver and complaining about being overcaffeinated
Having worked in the concrete business, they guys that did yours are pretty common. They can just throw another bag of air entrainment additive in the mixer and save some $ by using "fluffy" concrete. Saves labor also.
 
How do you prevent that even being there? Seems like one would have to keep pretty close tabs on things and have a lot of knowledge.
 
You can have test molds on site and demand a mold at the beginning and end of every truckfull, right from the chute. On a $$$ job, you can even have them tested. (in the old days it was 55$ per test slug). If the contract specifies X PSI concrete and they underdeliver, they can be forced to mitigate the disrepancy. You can also specify a minimum depth, and put in the contract that there will be test holes drilled within X days of the pour.

Mostly just standing there and watching helps a lot.
 
Review your concrete plan with an expert!

Our building plan only called for rebar on the perimeter as the design did not need the floor.

Our patio was large, and on Sametime of soil, no cracks with no rebar, so did think much.

The ground was sloped a bit, cost same to fill with dirt or concrete, so 55 yards later, a slab is in place.

Good for about 6 months, then cracks.

Edges are good but some ugly inside.

Your blueprint may be light on the rebar. Here is where better to spend more and over do it, we have regretted not doing ours!

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
My last garage pour we did #5 rebar, doubled on the perimeter, with #4 rebar on 24" with fiber in the cement. Let's hope it never cracks!
 
Welcome aboard @Roadhawg ! It sounds like you are going to have an incredible building.

There is some excellent advice here!

Finding a concrete contractor that you can trust will most likely be one of the hardest parts of the build. I built a new shop in 2019 with in-floor hydronic heat, which was stained and sealed. That works quite well, and you don't have to worry about it chipping. I, unfortunately, picked the wrong color, but that was 100% my fault. It is a mottled black, and although it looked awesome, it is very hard to keep clean and quite difficult to find small dropped parts on. My previous shop had a two-part epoxy floor, which I really liked, and it held up very well. I respectfully disagree with Woodchucker regarding the waiting time before application. For that shop, I waited about 30 days after the concrete pour to lay down the epoxy. I was in that place for 11 years and had zero issues with moisture or adhesion.
When it comes to insulating, there are a couple of options. Fiberglass batts are the go-to because they are cheap, but fiberglass is actually not very good at insulating. The reason is too long to post here. PM me if you want details. Dense-pack cellulose is an excellent choice and superior to fiberglass as long as it stays dry. Rock wool is a good choice but expensive. Spray foam is superior to all of the above due to its ability to fill cracks and crevices, thus preventing air infiltration within the wall cavity. You would most likely not need a vapor barrier if spray foam for your region.
Lastly, I utilized 5/8" thick plywood for the interior of the walls. I applied one coat of clear stain to give it some depth and then two coats of lacquer. I can hang cabinets and other necessary items on the walls without needing to find a stud.
 

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