Slitting saw arbor types

[kentuckyjim]

Tony Wells
I push a dead center snug into the spin indexer and adjust the cutter. This may be the problem but I am unaware of any center that could be put in the collet


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[kentuckyjim]

Dave
I have cut one side at a time with pretty much the same result. I have been thinking it might be blade deflection or centering. The tubing thickness I am slitting is very thin.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Tony Wells]

Take a rod or a piece of your tubing and blue/Sharpie the top. Bring the spinning saw over the rod or tubing and raise the table until it removes the ink. Then dial away to a safe position. Raise the table 1/2 the saw width, then 1/2 the rod/tubing diameter. You will be on center. Of course, just to be sure, run an indicator on the stock in the collet to be sure it is actually running true. Assuming things in machine work is not a good idea. You probably will find that your saw is "wobbling" a bit during this process. If it is wobbling much, you should skim the face of the arbor to get rid of that. It will affect the center finding as well as the quality of the cut.

Alternatively, if you have a height gage and indicator, you could do a little math and touch off the top of the rod/tubing and dial the height gage down to the halfway point, then raise or lower the cutter to hit center. Just always remember to allow for half the cutter width.

 

[Cobra]

Making your own arbors is not very difficult and can achieve a better fit and concentricity than some of the cheap import ones have. Making them to fit a specific size saw hole just works better all around. It is also possible to make arbors with very thin caps, which can fit in closer to surfaces that would be in the way with taller caps.

I am with Bob. This is one of the first projects that I did. You can make your own very easily.

 

[Dan_S]

There is another style that I see on sale. It is like the one sold by Sierra. This is not a one-size-fits-all design. Instead the part that fits in the hole of the saw is on the cap end, and this locates in a hole bored in the shank end. This seems a lot more solid, since the place where it bears down is supported on both sides. I was wondering if this apparent improvement makes a difference.

In my opinion The Sierra style is better. I own two Sierra American arbors, and they are way better than the multi size imports.

For those that don't know, this is the Sierra style arbor.
http://www.sierraamerican.com/slitting-saw-arbors/

 

[ericc]

This one?

View attachment 225145

Yes, that's the one.

 

[ericc]

Thanks for all the helpful replies. Intuitively, the Sierra style looked better. I have some stock to make a few of my own. I'll give it a try. Also, knowing that the internal locating rings are spring loaded makes it easier to understand that the pinching is only on the outer ring.

 

[kentuckyjim]

Tony and Dan_S
Thanks to both of you! I think I will use both suggestions. It has been
Very frustrating to spend 3 or4 hrs making a piece and then spoil it on the last operation. Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Dan_S]

For those that want to make arbors, you might want to check out Stefan Gotteswinter's video series on making them.

 

[Wreck™Wreck]

If you truly desire accuracy rough the arbor and tap the saw mounting end beforehand, install in mill spindle, place a lathe turning tool in the vise and turn the saw bore diameter in place in the spindle of the mill, this will have to be done every time so you will only use each arbor once, much like dressing a grinding wheel, Works a charm.