Should I buy this Model A Precision?

martik777 said:
Mcmaster or ebay for that gits oiler or just make a tapered plug with your new lathe :)

The 20T gear is the normal stud gear. The 40 is only used for 4-7TPI (see threading plate on gearbox).

Get a 445K6 +/- 1 inch serpentine belt to replace that noisy old joined belt

There appears to be a fair amount of wear and a ridge on your front ways, hopefully it won't affect your accuracy too much.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tip on the belt, I'll get one of those for sure.

Which pic did you see the wear you spoke of on?
 
IHateMayonnaise said:
I did notice that on the motor pully that the collars are modern, and I believe that there are some spacers that are missing, I'll check the parts list to verify. I'm also missing the cap/spring on the oil plug (see below), anyone know where I can find a replacement?
Click to expand...
The large pulley on the counter shaft may not be original.
Look for a two step flat pulley. The motor pulley as well.
A rubber cap works fine on the gits....Bleeder screw caps work well.
IHateMayonnaise said:
The leather belt came apart pretty easily, however I'll have to find a replacement thing that splices them together. The orignial one was plastic, I may be able to get it to work again but I'd prefer to find a more perminant solution.
Click to expand...
That leather belt looks fine, just a little dirty. The steel laces are meshed together with plastic.
I use an aluminum nail or other soft metal then tape over the lace to quiet the belt.
I have some boxes of bulldog laces that are supplied with cut to length plastic stip.
The serpentine belt is the best but requires spindle and counter shaft disassembly.
IHateMayonnaise said:
It came with two faceplates, the one attached appears to be modern, probably from Grizzly/Shars (manufacturer of 3/4-jaw chucks that came with it). I assume that the faceplate is pressed in? Doe anyone have any advice on how to remove it?
Click to expand...
Did you solve this?
IHateMayonnaise said:
a strange gizmo that took me a bit of time to figure out what it was because it had no identifiable markings on it that I could easly search: a South Bend micrometer carriage stop (see below). I've known what it was for a while now, but I'm glad I didn't sell it, because it looks like it fits my 9A. What luck!
Click to expand...
Good score on the micrometer carriage stop. They are pricey. So is every other accessory.
The milling vise is a huge bonus. Interesting steady rest, would like to see a picture of it.
You should be proud to have such a classic machine.
 
martik777 said:
110804 and 163851
you should be able to feel the ridge with your fingernail
Click to expand...
You mean longitudinal groove/ridges (along axis of lathe)? Presumably caused by burrs on carriage. I don't think I'm up to hand-scraping the ways, as I don't have a reference flat nearly long enough. I'll check the mating surfaces to make sure whatever caused it to happen is mitigated by evaluating/fixing with a super-fine arkinsas. Other than this, anything I could (or should) do?
 
LucknowKen said:
The large pulley on the counter shaft may not be original.
Look for a two step flat pulley. The motor pulley as well.
A rubber cap works fine on the gits....Bleeder screw caps work well.
Click to expand...
I'm thinking you're right, appears to be aluminum. From my recollection even the pictures from original documentation have this as a V-Belt/pulley, am I wrong? I'll look into getting a replacement, I just want to make sure I'm headed in the right direction. If anyone has an idea of where to source these from modern vendors, I'd be eager to know. I assume the pitch diameter of the pulleys are pretty close to the original, however I have no idea of knowing this. I'll do some digging to see what I can find.

LucknowKen said:
That leather belt looks fine, just a little dirty. The steel laces are meshed together with plastic.
I use an aluminum nail or other soft metal then tape over the lace to quiet the belt.
I have some boxes of bulldog laces that are supplied with cut to length plastic stip.
The serpentine belt is the best but requires spindle and counter shaft disassembly.
Click to expand...
I'll go with the serpentine belt -- I have to disassemble the spindle anyway in order to install new wicks on the bearings.

LucknowKen said:
Did you solve this?
Click to expand...

No didn't try, was too busy trying to discern the purpose of the various mechanisms on the apron. Am I correct in assuming that South Bend never provided any user manuals with their machines? I am an absolute novice to lathes, although I've rebuilt a myriad of other machines. I don't want to risk damaging anything due to my abundant ignorance. Can anyone recommend a good reference for how to use this (or similar) machines? Something that says "in order to do this, you must do that," or "never do this otherwise that will happen" sort of thing. The biggest thing I'm noticing is that in engaging the mesh on the various gears (gearbox, countershaft, apron etc) I often have to offset one of the gears slightly so it can mesh. I don't see any way around this, and I assume this is normal.

LucknowKen said:
Good score on the micrometer carriage stop. They are pricey. So is every other accessory.
The milling vise is a huge bonus. Interesting steady rest, would like to see a picture of it.
You should be proud to have such a classic machine.
Click to expand...

Yes, I'm very proud. This thing has been loved by many, and I'll continue to do so for many (many) years to come.


General question regarding the reverse mechanism -- should the square screw be tightened completely after changing direction, or should it be loose enough to allow movement when depressing the handle? I'm pretty sure there is a spring missing on the screw. I ask because the handle sticks out of the guard (would think it can be adjusted without opening the guard), however the head of the screw does not. It seems dangerous for the gears to NOT have it tightened, but what do I know.
 
South bend is famous for their "how to run a lathe" book! I think it's got all the details in there... if not, my first lathe was almost identical to yours!

The chuck mounting plate (not really a faceplate) is screwed on the spindle.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 
IHateMayonnaise said:
I'm thinking you're right, appears to be aluminum. From my recollection even the pictures from original documentation have this as a V-Belt/pulley, am I wrong? I'll look into getting a replacement, I just want to make sure I'm headed in the right direction. If anyone has an idea of where to source these from modern vendors, I'd be eager to know. I assume the pitch diameter of the pulleys are pretty close to the original, however I have no idea of knowing this. I'll do some digging to see what I can find.
Click to expand...
Look for a two step flat (crowned) pulley. The motor pulley is a double vee.
In another thread the belt was a B-40 motor to the counter shaft.
I should have been more specific. All the info you need is here on this forum.
www.hobby-machinist.com

Useful South Bend Lathe Files

Here are some files for South Bend Lathe Owners:
www.hobby-machinist.com www.hobby-machinist.com
IHateMayonnaise said:
I'll go with the serpentine belt -- I have to disassemble the spindle anyway in order to install new wicks on the bearings.
Click to expand...
A member here started to disassemble his 9A before he realized he needed it running to make some parts for itself.
IHateMayonnaise said:
All I know about the lath is this: It's a "Model A Precision," and is very well maintained. The guy who owned it was an engineer, and from what I can tell from the rest of the items from the sale, he loved his equipment and spent lots of time making sure that they were up to snuff.

I'm not made of money, but I'm especially turned on by the fact that it seems as though I won't need to spend much (or any) time getting this thing to do what I want it to do
Click to expand...
Sounds like its ready to keep working. Even the felt kit is pricey.
That would just be the beginning. I am not made of money either.
An engineer would never over equip a lathe then not maintain it.
Lathes much older than that one have perfect felts/springs.
You will know once you use it if it needs felts.
You can check the felts on the saddle.
You may be surprised at the condition.
Also, some testing should be done.
Once its apart you will want to paint.....
9As are more fun to work with than work on.
 
Last edited:
IHateMayonnaise said:
You mean longitudinal groove/ridges (along axis of lathe)? Presumably caused by burrs on carriage. I don't think I'm up to hand-scraping the ways, as I don't have a reference flat nearly long enough. I'll check the mating surfaces to make sure whatever caused it to happen is mitigated by evaluating/fixing with a super-fine arkinsas. Other than this, anything I could (or should) do?
Click to expand...
Yes, on the top of the V-way, would be caused by many years of wear - will also be visible on the bottom of the saddle v-ways. Compare the shape of the V near the tail stock to the V in front of the chuck - it should be obvious. Lightly tighten down the carriage over the wear area, then move the carriage to the unworn area and it should be much harder to move.

Performing a test cut or 2 collar test will indicate how much the wear is affecting your accuracy. Generally this type of wear will result in some taper
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top