Shop Press.

The smaller benchtop press was put together on-the-fly so I don't have drawings but, it measures 20" x 40". It weighs about 40-50lbs w/o the bottle jack. The main construction is 1x2", 1/8" wall, construction-grade tube stock. Construction grade material is called A36 which is mild steel -a crude version of 1018. There's a few corner plates and tabs of 1/4" thick, A36 flatstock. The tubes were butted together, welded every few inches and ground flat at the places that need to be flat. -Nothing special at all. I used the Machinist's Handbook to approximate it's capacity and even with a huge margin of error, it should be good for 4 tons -probably more but, few things need that kind of force. I think the bottle jack is a 6 or 8 ton -it was on sale and cheaper than the smaller ones. Here's a couple more photos that show basic construction.

EDIT: The corner welds and welds on the bottom bar are important. Those were2 passes of 1/8", 7018 rod -hot -probably 125 amps. 7018 is the perfect for that kind of strong weld.

Tamper84 said:
Very nice presses!!!! What are the dimensions on the metal you used?

Chris
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PressCorner.JPG PressBottomBar.JPG
 
Ok, nice presses but I have a really stupid question.

Can you please show me how you would use a press like that, either the arbor press like Bob's or the 12T shop press to get a bearing on and off?

I am going to need to do that shortly and have no fricken clue. :nuts:

Thanks.
 
Is the bearing pressed onto a shaft or fit inside a sleeve?


Nelson said:
Ok, nice presses but I have a really stupid question.

Can you please show me how you would use a press like that, either the arbor press like Bob's or the 12T shop press to get a bearing on and off?

I am going to need to do that shortly and have no fricken clue. :nuts:

Thanks.
Click to expand...
 
Nelson here is some i just did and took a pic. A guy gave me a bucket of these garage door motor parts and i wanted to save the bearings. So i turned a shaft to fit thru the bearing to push it off. The bearing is held by 2 bars so it will slide off under pressure.

I just did the wheel bearings on my Geo but i didn't get pics. I use one of the long shafts to fit thru the bigger holed rear bearing to push out the front bearing. Then flipped the hub over and pushed out the rear one with a bigger dia shaft. Hope this helps...Bob

projects.jpg
 
Bob's got you covered. The main thing is to use fixtures (usually hollow pipes or solid shafts) to press onto either the journal or race part of the bearing. The journal is the inside round ring that the shaft goes through. The race is the outer ring that overs the ball bearing. Never put pressure on the ball bearings and never use pressure on the outer race to effect a force on the inner race (or vise-versa).

When putting a bearing on a shaft, the bearing race diameter is fixed so the shaft tolerance is usually +0.0000, -0.0005. When fitting an outer race into a sleeve, the outer race is the fixed size and the sleeve tolerance is usually +0.0005, -0.0000. Some of the stuff I do are "crush fit" so, the shaft has to be frozen and bearing heated (below anealing point) to sweat the parts together. I typically hate those.
 
Thank you Bob and Ray! Bob yep I'm right down rt7. Someone actually kinda close to me lol.

Thank You,
Chris
 
Tamper84 said:
Thank you Bob and Ray! Bob yep I'm right down rt7. Someone actually kinda close to me lol.

Thank You,
Chris
Click to expand...

I will be going that way sometime soon. My wife has family in Longbottom (Pop 15) about an hour below Marietta on Rt 7. Maybe i will see ya on the way by...Bob
 
Make sure you honk your horn going thru Clarington. I'm sure ill hear it lol. Or I will be at work, I work at Ormet, you'll drive right past it.


Chris
 
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