Shop lights

6500K is just too friggin blue for my eyes. Just something for you to ponder, if you ever spent your life in an office building with cheap fluorescent you would notice fatigue. I prefer under 5000K.
4800K is considered Daylight.
 
6500K is just too friggin blue for my eyes. Just something for you to ponder, if you ever spent your life in an office building with cheap fluorescent you would notice fatigue. I prefer under 5000K.
4800K is considered Daylight.

The 6500k bulbs I posted have no hint of blue at all.
 
54w T5HO is the only one I will have. I am running the 5k which is very white on the 6 bulb units at 15' and 65 foot candles at 4'.

Hooked up a 4 bulb 8' T8 7' above lathe the other day and just not the same. (waiting on more T5 fixtures)

e-conolight is where i get mine, includes bulbs for 130.00. Sign up for e-mail first and you will get 10% off first order.
 
Wow, thanks for all the replies. Got some looking to do. Like said, I currently use the cheap 4' 2 bulb florescent and just haven't had long term luck. Will be giving a look to some of the suggestions listed. Thanks again!
 
I've been converting over to LED R30 (think that's the size designation) floods. Lowes sells incandescent bulb holders for about $1.25. I screw two of those to a burned out 4-foot flourescent fixture, use the original fixture plug and wiring to tie the two together. Our local Walmart sells 65W (uses 11W power) LED floods for $4.88. Whole conversion costs less than $15 per fixture, gives me 130 watts of equivalent lighting for 22 watts of power, plus they work in "balmy" Michigan at up to -40 F. Bulb life is advertised at 22 years of continuous use.

I use a 100W equivalent LED bulb in the gooseneck task light on my Clausing. Got tired of burning my wrist on an actual 100W incandescent bulb! Think they used to power Easy-Back ovens with those bulbs!
 
In my shop, a two car garage, I use four 4bank 4's. At my age that's only enough for walking around without tripping.:))
 
I got some LED bulbs to replace some standard incondecent bulbs. They say on the package that they are "Dimmable" , Do I need a special dimer switch, or will the one that was used with the previous bulbs work? thanks,JR49
 
I thought I would try the 5100K bulbs and man are they white. Walking outside at dark it takes a while for the eyes to adjust. Its amazing how much easier it is to read a tape measure compared to the screw in bulbs.

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I got some LED bulbs to replace some standard incondecent bulbs. They say on the package that they are "Dimmable" , Do I need a special dimer switch, or will the one that was used with the previous bulbs work? thanks,JR49
Standard dimmer switch will work fine although the more sophisticated ones work better after they are calibrated for the functional range of Bulb operation. on a standard switch you will find they will not turn on when you drop below a certain point.
 
The other side of the problem, besides the lights themselves, are the shop construction and the finishes of the surfaces. I have a 3 car garage that fits my one car and also tries to fit all my tools. Only 2 walls are sheet rock, and they are mostly covered with open shelving. There is no ceiling, just open framing above. The floor is ordinary unfinished concrete. Covering open framing with sheet rock, ceiling and walls, having storage covered with doors, and then painting everything white (floor, too!) makes a huge difference with the light being reflected back from the surfaces from all directions. Bright lights by themselves with dark room surfaces act as point source spot lights, causing glare, shadows, and lower overall light levels. It is much more economical, as well as cheerful, to have extensive reflective white surfaces. This will also save on buying excessive lights and paying a large electric bill. Those lights also help to overheat the shop in warm weather. Now I just need to follow my own advice! Actually, my plan is to move at some point soon so I am waiting to do all that at a new place...
 
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