The 6.5 bag mix (4k psi) is the way to go. Wire wouldn't hurt. either.
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Shipping tips for a Bridgeport mill?
- Thread starter GoMopar440
- Start date
The 6.5 bag mix (4k psi) is the way to go. Wire wouldn't hurt. either.
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2011
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- 127
Tomorrow's going to be slab prep day. After I get back from my classes I'll be prepping everything for the concrete. I already packed the dirt down a while ago when I pulled the rotten floor boards up, but I'll go over it again to make sure it's still nice and firm. I've got a large pile of the perfect sized rocks to lay down sitting right behind the barn so that's covered. I also have some left over sheep fence that I'll use for the wire reinforcement. I'm going to attach it to some stakes that will be spread out to hold the wire at about half of the depth of the slab.
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- Oct 19, 2011
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- 127
I'm completely whooped right now, but the slab area is finally prepped. When I got the estimate for the concrete I used the deepest point to calcualte the depth. I looked it over after moving all the junk out of the way and I noticed that most of the rest of the slab area was a little bit shallower. It's even shallower still with the layer of rocks that are in there now. So I decided to deepen the area the mill will sit by about 2" to give it a bit more stregnth right there (center of the left side). I used some square stakes and tied the wire fence to those to keep it up off the rocks.
Here's how it looks now.
The concrete truck should be here by 10AM and I'll probably have it leveled and done by 11 if all goes well. I'll be sure to ask the concrete guys how long I should wait for it to cure before setting the mill on it. They're bringing the 4K mix.
Here's how it looks now.
The concrete truck should be here by 10AM and I'll probably have it leveled and done by 11 if all goes well. I'll be sure to ask the concrete guys how long I should wait for it to cure before setting the mill on it. They're bringing the 4K mix.
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- Oct 19, 2011
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- 127
The truck driver showed up around 10:30 this past Friday and we were done pouring and screeding it by 11:15. I didn't really want a smooth surface so I used a big push broom to texture it for grip. I'll be shiming up the corners of the mill with machine shims as I level it, so the variations in the floor surface shouldn't have any affect on it.
When I asked the truck driver about the cure time before putting a load on the slab, he referred me to the guy at the front office for that info. The office guy said to give it at least seven days to adequately cure for a load like a mill, but also said I could walk on it and put light loads on it after just 48 hours. This week is going to be hectic for me so I'm shooting for my next off day (Friday 10/5) to get the mill moved here. That will give the slab about 14 days of cure time. I still need to get a moving crew hired on for the job. BTW: The lowest part of the door frame (it's bowed in the middle) has a little over 6'3" of clearance to the slab.
Until then, here's how it's looking.
When I asked the truck driver about the cure time before putting a load on the slab, he referred me to the guy at the front office for that info. The office guy said to give it at least seven days to adequately cure for a load like a mill, but also said I could walk on it and put light loads on it after just 48 hours. This week is going to be hectic for me so I'm shooting for my next off day (Friday 10/5) to get the mill moved here. That will give the slab about 14 days of cure time. I still need to get a moving crew hired on for the job. BTW: The lowest part of the door frame (it's bowed in the middle) has a little over 6'3" of clearance to the slab.
Until then, here's how it's looking.
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2011
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- 127
:lmao: :rofl:
Me thinks you are a bit :nuts:.
At least you have a good sense of humor. :jester:
On another note... I'll be stopping by the garage between classes today to get some measurements of the mill. That will let me know the rest of the data I need to tell the movers for a quote.
- Joined
- Sep 11, 2012
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- 50
When I moved a similar miller (index45)
I hired a tilting flat bed truck to drag the mill up onto the bed, secure it and then lower it into my garage. If you have roller at the far end or even a piece of plywood, you can use the truck to slide the mill back into position from the doorway using a 4x4 at the bottom. Easy does it, it's still a heavy and top heavy piece of machinery.
Good luck,
LUP
I hired a tilting flat bed truck to drag the mill up onto the bed, secure it and then lower it into my garage. If you have roller at the far end or even a piece of plywood, you can use the truck to slide the mill back into position from the doorway using a 4x4 at the bottom. Easy does it, it's still a heavy and top heavy piece of machinery.
Good luck,
LUP
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2011
- Messages
- 127
I finally got a quote back from a machinery shipping/hauling company in Helena today. $2300... Uh, no thanks.
One of the local auto repair shops recently bought out a small machine shop for the equipment and they recommended the company they used. It's a local trucking/towing company, but I talked to them and confirmed that they have all the equipment to move the mill safely. Best part is they are going by towing rates, so they gave me an estimate of about $175-200. That's to remove it from the garage, haul it to my place and then place it on the slab in the barn. They're scheduled to show up and pick up the mill this Friday around noon.
With that finally worked out, I stopped by the garage and prepped the mill for the move. The head and motor are now rotated 180* and the table has a small piece of wood between it and the motor. The table is now also moved back towards the column so it is centered under the motor and brought up to support it. All table, knee and head locks are tightened down to prevent any shifting during the move. Just to be on the safe side I also removed the DRO, side mounted tool holder and the table hand wheels.
The mill is just sitting on the floor so there weren't any bolts or shims to deal with. I'll be adding those when I start the levelling process though. Any sugestions on where to find big machine mounting sized shims? I think I remember seeing some shims at harbor freight a while ago, but didn't pay attention to the details since I wasn't looking for any of those at the time. Guess I'll go take a peek at their website.
One of the local auto repair shops recently bought out a small machine shop for the equipment and they recommended the company they used. It's a local trucking/towing company, but I talked to them and confirmed that they have all the equipment to move the mill safely. Best part is they are going by towing rates, so they gave me an estimate of about $175-200. That's to remove it from the garage, haul it to my place and then place it on the slab in the barn. They're scheduled to show up and pick up the mill this Friday around noon.
With that finally worked out, I stopped by the garage and prepped the mill for the move. The head and motor are now rotated 180* and the table has a small piece of wood between it and the motor. The table is now also moved back towards the column so it is centered under the motor and brought up to support it. All table, knee and head locks are tightened down to prevent any shifting during the move. Just to be on the safe side I also removed the DRO, side mounted tool holder and the table hand wheels.
The mill is just sitting on the floor so there weren't any bolts or shims to deal with. I'll be adding those when I start the levelling process though. Any sugestions on where to find big machine mounting sized shims? I think I remember seeing some shims at harbor freight a while ago, but didn't pay attention to the details since I wasn't looking for any of those at the time. Guess I'll go take a peek at their website.
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- Jan 22, 2011
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- 8,031
Being a Southerner, I haven't tried this myself, but I hear from the Northern friends that hockey pucks make good mounts. If you can tap the holes in the base, it seems nearly ideal to put a metal circle with a dent in the center on top of a puck and use it to level the machine. Get some long square head set screws for the jacks screws, and put a nut on top of the mill base to lock it. If you have time, you might consider getting a pan made to sit the mill in. Makes cleanup easier. Otherwise, MSC and the like have real leveling pads if you have time to get them.
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- Jul 26, 2011
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- 4,142
I just got an automobile wrecker truck with a crane to move my Bridgeport type about 20 miles. No problem. I can't recall what it cost,maybe $100.00?? About what you'd pay to haul a car that far.
When I moved into my new shop several years ago,I was really worried. The 6" fiberglass reinforced apron in front of the new building had only been poured some weeks before the machinery was delivered. This 8500# fork lift carried my Bridgy over it!!! Tremendous weight on very small tire prints. Nothing cracked,though. Whole thing must have weighed 10,000# easily. I doubt each tire's imprint was more than 2" x 5".
When I moved into my new shop several years ago,I was really worried. The 6" fiberglass reinforced apron in front of the new building had only been poured some weeks before the machinery was delivered. This 8500# fork lift carried my Bridgy over it!!! Tremendous weight on very small tire prints. Nothing cracked,though. Whole thing must have weighed 10,000# easily. I doubt each tire's imprint was more than 2" x 5".