Scroll bender switch problem in need of a solution ??

TOOLMASTER said:
you can add a delay on break relay till you get past first bump..

you other guys can verify this..i'm half asleep but i think i got it right..lol


also depending on how fast it is turning you may need a wider lobe
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I think what you are referring to as a "delay on break" relay is commonly known as a timer relay. This could certainly be an option, though adjustment for more spirals will be a trial and error process.

The beauty of the latch circuit is that even if the lobe does not stop with the switch still struck, the circuit is broken, and the motor will come to a stop. That is unless the foot pedal is depressed. The only quirk is that if the foot pedal must be held long enough for the lobe to move off of the switch for the first revolution. Otherwise the circuit will break as soon as the pedal is released. In this regard, the lobe could be very small, enough so that the motor will coast past it upon stopping. This way a quick tap of the pedal will start the motor.

-Cody
 
meant interval timer relay...you can get multi function also

timer relay is rather broad
 
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Attach a small chain sprocket or a belt pulley to the device. Run a chain or link belt to a larger sprocket or pulley. Three to one or whatever ratio you need. Put a bolt or bump on the large sprocket and trip-switch on that. If you use a pulley, you can spring load it so to adjust the trip position. The spring will keep it tight during operation, but you can loosen it to adjust the trip location.

If you use a bicycle chain and sprocket, you can use the "pedal-backwards" feature to adjust the trip point.
 
Good thought BluCab. Fix it with a mechanical fix instead of electrical and it is easier for most to understand. You could use a counter also and just count the bumps.

Foot switch activates the counter, signals the mag to go and when preset is reached, drops out mag. Emergency stop button should be first device in the circuit. Opening the entire control circuit not just the foot switch portion.

The signals off these plug in type counters are usually a low voltage signal making the cord across the floor a much safer proposition when the cord is cut or wears out. Never saw cords last long in a steel working environment unless a hard service type cord is used. Even then good maintenance is mandatory.

Any chance of a overhead pendant to actuate the process? Just a thought.
 
Hope to take some more photos tomorrow now that the gear boxes are installed . The jury is still out but i think Tony and Cody have the most simplistic approach . It allows me to still incorporate the long hose clamp around the hub that will facilitate timing and complete change for different setups . And an E stop is also a good idea .
 
I know most will reject this idea for many reasons......Just a different take here so be nice..... An encoder and a Basic Stamp or an Arduino or even a simple brick PLC. Not the cheapest idea but by far the most control options. I use BSII on a lot of projects cause its cheap and easy to implement. Have a great day everyone
 
Glmphoto said:
I know most will reject this idea for many reasons......Just a different take here so be nice..... An encoder and a Basic Stamp or an Arduino or even a simple brick PLC. Not the cheapest idea but by far the most control options. I use BSII on a lot of projects cause its cheap and easy to implement. Have a great day everyone
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That was actually my first thought, but the OP was looking for a relay based solution, so I didn't want to complicate it too much.

I would use an Arduino/PLC with a prox switch to count sprocket teeth, and dip switch to set the number of teeth. But I tend to over-engineer everything.

This doesn't really need to be more complicated than the relays.

-Cody
 
Have you ever looked Allen Bradley Pico Controllers or there are numerous other brands out there.
Fully programmable, built in HMI, counters, timers, and relay outputs. Any time I can scarf one off Flea Bay for under $50 I grab it.
 
furpo said:
Have you ever looked Allen Bradley Pico Controllers or there are numerous other brands out there.
Fully programmable, built in HMI, counters, timers, and relay outputs. Any time I can scarf one off Flea Bay for under $50 I grab it.
Click to expand...

I personally steer clear of Allen Bradley. Just a bit too proprietary for my tastes. For personal projects, not professional, I like the Automation Direct PLC's. The CLICK series of PLC's have free software, and all of the same features of the AB controllers.

For professional projects, I use Beckhoff, or Siemens controllers. Top notch stuff, can't beat it.

-Cody
 
What language is that ?? Is it like pie are round and corn bread are square ?:)):thinking::LOL:


Really say what
 
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