Reversing the VFD

OK, I'll go and buy the bits and pieces. What wire gauge did you use for the 24v circuits?
 
Just about any wire will do for the 24volt signal lines.
Click to expand...

Yeah this is true, I just dug around in my "odd wire" box and found some small stuff from some forgotten project.

You know none of this counts if you dont post pics of your project when youre finished....
 
I went to home depot for the switches, housings and conduit. I think I have about 10 bucks in it. I am using a $0.99 half watt linear 10k pot from Radio Shack and a $1.25 knob! My VFD is a Minarik open frame type. No programming. No Cabinet. No user controls. Mounted it on the back of the lathe cabinet down by the floor (where it is cooler) All the parameters are adjusted with pots on the device. I just disconnected my Rotary Phase Converter and connected the VFD. I use the Drum Switch for off on and reverse. If I want the braking, I use the switch on the wall. The F/W wall switch can be used for a gentle brake, stop, and gentle start the other direction. Not really needed. I made a little mark by the pot where the 60 hz setting is. I leave it there unless I really need to change the speed. 60 HZ is where the motor is happiest. Once in a while, if I slam the drum switch from forward to reverse and back the VFD will fault. I just reach up, flip the enable switch off, then on and go on my merry way. I had to crank it up just a bit when it started tripping on heavy cuts. I have a lot of faith in the engineers that design those things. I have adjusted the over current at the minimum to make it work. I'm not worried about hurting anything. I have another unit sitting on the shelf. (Got 2 used units for $85). I have been using this unit for about a year now. As soon as I find a deal on a 3 phase motor that will fit my mill, I will use the second one.
 
[quote author=mnmh link=topic=1849.msg12047#msg12047 date=1303855459]
[quote author=wawoodman link=topic=1849.msg12020#msg12020 date=1303835571]
OK, I'll go and buy the bits and pieces. What wire gauge did you use for the 24v circuits?
[/quote]Mike,

Just about any wire will do for the 24volt signal lines. There is very little current running through those wires since they are just control wires and not driver wires. I would use 18 or 20 gauge stranded wire.

Ed


[/quote]

All I've found (so far) is 22 gauge. Will that work, or should I keep looking?
Thanks!
 
This will probably be poo-poo'ed - but I feel obligated to post it anyway.

Page 4-5 of your manual:

NOTE: For the wiring
of intelligent I/O and
analog inputs, be sure to use twisted pair /shielded cable.
Attach the shielded wire for each signal to its respective common terminal at the inverter end only.
Click to expand...

I called Hitachi and confirmed this with one of their engineers (Sam Mirza) when I was installing my unit.The reason being, these are logic inputs, and any stray signals could possibly initiate a run command when you least expect it and don't want it.He said to also be sure you don't run the signal lines near/parallel to any line voltage wiring for just that reason.I wired mine with CAT5 and only grounded the shielding leads at the VFD per the instructions, as you don't want a ground loop.

Just passing it along FYI. No need to shoot the messenger. ;)
 
Highpower,
Were you able to find Cat 5 that was stranded, not solid? Or, is the twisted pair more important than the stranded vs. solid? Where did you get it?
 
Mike,

What I have is stranded. It's left over from a spool I had bought when I wired our home computer network. I know Lowes and Home Depot here carry it. It's over in with the Audio/Telephone wiring supplies isle.

The only drawback to the solid wire is it's stiffness. As long as it's twisted pair/shielded it will work though.
 
More questions, sorry! When you say twisted pair, shielded, does that mean that the cable is shielded? Or that each pair is shielded? Or that one wire of each pair is shielded?

"Attach the shielded wire for each signal to its respective common terminal at the inverter end only." I don't understand this at all, sorry.

I just want to be sure that I'm doing it right, the first time!
 
If you prefer the flexibility of stranded Cat5, get some preterminated LAN jumpers and whack off the ends. They are stranded instead of solid.
 
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