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Restoration Of My Weiler Lz 280s (imageheavy)

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Senna

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#31
Great work and I'm officially jealous as Weiler is among the brands of lathes on my short list of super cool lathes I need to get.

Saving those covers is fantastic. Given the condition of them I'd have seriously considered casting new ones but your method is better and you performed the task admirably.
 

Joarek

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#32
Is the tail stock casting a 2 piece unit? If it is you could just shim it with some brass shim stock.
It is a 2 piece unit, but the first picture is taken from a birdseye. I belive what you think of is the Y axis, but it is off on the X axis.

latheartz.gif

Thanks for the nice comments though.

latheartz.gif
 

woodtickgreg

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#33
It is a 2 piece unit, but the first picture is taken from a birdseye. I belive what you think of is the Y axis, but it is off on the X axis.

View attachment 70298

Thanks for the nice comments though.
You are correct, that is what I was picturing. On most lathes there are 2 adjusting screws that kind of tighten against each other to move the tail stock to center, my south bend has these. I am guessing that your tail stock is one piece with no adjustment screws?
 

Senna

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#34
The later LZ330 has an adjustable TS doesn't the LZ280 have the same thing?
 

xalky

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#35
Here's the pic of his tailstock, from a previous post. It sure looks like it's 2 pieces.

IMG_2890.jpg

IMG_2890.jpg
 

Joarek

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#36
As stated, yes it is adjustable on the X axis. But not up and down ( Y axis). Also here is a the design of it, where you can see the setscrew at the bottom to slide it.

TS.jpg

However im not able to get it to where it needs to be.

It has been a little while since i took theese pictures and fiddled with it, and im a big goldfish. But if memory serves me correct it could feel like it was hitting exaggerated something like this:
SU.png


My worst fear is that it has taken such big of a hit that it actually has twisted.
 

hermetic

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#37
You can't trust the chuck or the centre drill to be perfect, especially the chuck. You need to remove the chuck and put a known good centre in the spindle (after you have visually checked the bore of the spindle) before you decide that there is a problem. When I got my Colchester, the three jaw had seen some service, and a round bar casually gripped in it could run out as much as 17 thou!
 

Joarek

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#38
Sometimes you just have a brainfart, and then you fiddle more with it and it just works... This was one of these times, and i now got it to align perfectly, and i even fixed the tailstock brake to work flawless also that had been bothering me (camshaft action not engaging due to paintbuildup in the leverhole).
So all in all a good day for the tailstock :D

The next steps on my list is getting epoxy on the top lids.
Straighten the crossfeed screw and get a new handle for it.
New handle for the variator speedchange.
Buying some good indexable toolsteel and boring bars.
World domina… Finding some good supply of scraps to make chips with.

I am also on the lookout for a Bridgeport theese days. Or atleast i have been studying the machine and tried to familiarize myself with on the units and the various heads out there.
 

mtnlvr

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#39
It looks like you are doing a nice job and making good progress.
Nice Audi in the background, building a race car or restoring?
 

Joarek

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#40
Late reply, but better late than never!

Thanks, it's my 1985 Coupe quattro (not ur), and im restoring it :)

As for my Weiler im using it and loving it. So i haven't prepped and painted the underside of it yet, but i will when i find the time.
I did finish painting the top cover and mounted it, and i made a little holder for my Tripan tool holders, a live center a drill chuck and the chuck-key and the two most used box wrenches (22 and 14mm).

So here are a few images as it's standing now. I even cleaned it for you guys! :p

IMG_1296.jpg
IMG_1297.jpg


I do however have an issue with the crossfeed slipping, i can stop the driveshaft with my fingers. So i need to figure that out:

IMG_1305.jpg
old phote before paint:
IMG_3163.jpg
 

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