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Replace compond with block would you ?
- Thread starter XPFTP
- Start date
- Joined
- May 7, 2023
- Messages
- 1,399
Same here, I was completely underwhelmed.
While the concept seems on point, it’s not much better than just setting things up properly and locking down the compound.
Plus with the compound on the lathe you have one less thing to store. That is unless you make a plinth and don’t use it.
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2022
- Messages
- 76
FWIW I made one for my PM-1030V. I might be getting slightly better finishes with it, but that's about the only difference I found when turning. However, when parting I have noticed an improvement in rigidity. This is a very small lightweight machine. Seems likely that the value prospect diminishes as the size and weight of a machine increases.
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2017
- Messages
- 2,386
I made one for my mini lathe, to improve results while parting. That worked out for me.
I also have a DRO on the lathe's Z axis and a crank on the lead screw so I can advance the carriage in lieu of advancing the compound (that's done by engaging the half nuts). So for many operations I don't need the compound. Threading, that's a different story. There are other infrequent operations where the compound is useful so I'm not going to get rid of it.
I also have a DRO on the lathe's Z axis and a crank on the lead screw so I can advance the carriage in lieu of advancing the compound (that's done by engaging the half nuts). So for many operations I don't need the compound. Threading, that's a different story. There are other infrequent operations where the compound is useful so I'm not going to get rid of it.
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2022
- Messages
- 1,742
I did a facing operation last weekend where I swung the compound outboard of the cross slide to place the cutter where I needed it to be, had I not had the compound I would not have been able to get the extra reach.
On a big machine, it probably doesn't change much. For a little machine like many of us have, it can help. On my PM 1127, it makes a big difference. It helps that the cross slide has a very sturdy mounting setup with T-slots. The plinth is very solid and makes a noticeable difference in rigidity.
I still use the compound. It takes a minute to switch, but nothing too bad. So I can move back to it when I want angles. I've never needed it for reach, but I can see how it might happen. It helps that I have a lot of space I can mount the block to. It's usually toward the middle, but sometimes I need it offset and it only takes a moment to adjust. It's another useful tool in the box. It has downsides, like everything. I have the block installed most of the time, and don't miss the compound most of the time.
For threading, I just go straight in. Probably a little more chatter, but I don't notice much.
I still use the compound. It takes a minute to switch, but nothing too bad. So I can move back to it when I want angles. I've never needed it for reach, but I can see how it might happen. It helps that I have a lot of space I can mount the block to. It's usually toward the middle, but sometimes I need it offset and it only takes a moment to adjust. It's another useful tool in the box. It has downsides, like everything. I have the block installed most of the time, and don't miss the compound most of the time.
For threading, I just go straight in. Probably a little more chatter, but I don't notice much.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2020
- Messages
- 161
If chatter and grabbing while parting off is the reason for wanting more rigidity, be sure to try a good carbide parting tool, and run it hard enough to break a chip. Sounds backwards for a small flexy lathe, but it worked for me. HSS parting tools needed to be run at slow RPM, and fed in agonizingly slow, and it would still catch and shatter the blade sometimes. I changed to GTN-3 inserts, something like 10x the RPMs and a fairly fast feed, and I parted off some 3.5" 1018 as my first test. It still chattered a bit, which is scary at that higher RPM, so I fiddled with it, lowered the RPM a bit and increased the feed until it was breaking chips, and the chatter magically (?) went away. Parted thru that steel in a small fraction of the time it would have taken with HSS, and with less noise and drama. Honestly with my old HSS parting method I would have started the cut then finished it on the bandsaw. Surface finish in the parting cut was pretty nice too! This is with the factory-installed compound. Which I use a lot, and would miss if it were gone.
I've heard the quality of the carbide is important, so I ordered real Iscar inserts and put them in an Aloris holder (71-125-1BSL GTN-3, in an AXA 71). I'll leave it to others to decide if that was really necessary or whether cheap Chinese knockoffs could do the job well enough for the $$ savings. Note there are also smaller/wimpier holders for GTN style inserts — the ones I got are the big skookum ones. Very happy with the results, it's night-and-day better than with HSS
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My lathe is a 1982 Enco 12", weighs about 600 lb and sits on a wooden benchtop, so this is not a very rigid lathe. Better than a mini-lathe, but still in the hobby range.
I've heard the quality of the carbide is important, so I ordered real Iscar inserts and put them in an Aloris holder (71-125-1BSL GTN-3, in an AXA 71). I'll leave it to others to decide if that was really necessary or whether cheap Chinese knockoffs could do the job well enough for the $$ savings. Note there are also smaller/wimpier holders for GTN style inserts — the ones I got are the big skookum ones. Very happy with the results, it's night-and-day better than with HSS
.
My lathe is a 1982 Enco 12", weighs about 600 lb and sits on a wooden benchtop, so this is not a very rigid lathe. Better than a mini-lathe, but still in the hobby range.