Remove rusted hardened pin from cast housing

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dansawyer

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I have a frozen pin rusted, seized in a cast housing. The pin is hardened, 1/2 inch in diameter. The cast housing is about 1/2 inch thick.
I have been taught to heat the housing so the hole expands and remove the pin while the housing was hot. The threads I read said to heat the pin and let it cool, then remove it. Which is correct?
I was not going to heat the housing beyond 500 deg F.
 
The housing and pin would get hot at the same time to little effect, I think; I would heat the pin itself quickly with a oxy/acet. torch, then let it cool off as was suggested.
 
I've seen both methods used successfully. Sometimes in tandem, letting things cool thoroughly first. It's hit or miss which works better, IMHO. The method to use is usually chosen by how easy it is to thoroughly heat one of the parts.

The most reliable method I've had exposure to is to be very patient with a 50/50 mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acetone applied to the joint and let it rest overnight. It seems to work without the need for heat in most situations.

DanK
 
BG In-Force penetrating oil.
Best stuff out there.
 
When i was on the big gray thing.. the airdales would use Wintergreen Oil to break rusted bolts loose.. at sea
 
I assume something like a dowel/alignment pin in a housing cover?

It may not be just rusted in, if it has a thread locking adhesive, then heating either/both and use a slide hammer.

Is the pin in a thru or blind hole? Perhaps it can be punched out, but be careful on the cast-iron!

Pictures might help here.

Thanks,
Brian
 
The pin is about 1 1/4 inch long. It goes through a clevis which goes over a cast iron bar about 3/8 inch thick. The order is first clevis half, cast iron bar, second clevis half.
This post is seeking advice on trying remove the pin leaving the clevis in tact.
(If that fails I will grind off the clevis arms and try to remove the two halfs and then use an air hammer drive out the pin. This would of course require having a replacement clevis on hand. )
Thank you all in advance. Dan
 
The pickle fork was used to try ot rotate clevis. The pin head in the center of the picke fork. There is just over 1/16 inch free between the pin head. . 20220217_180459_50.jpg
 
Die grinder and CARBIDE burrs.

The pin is likely had on outside and heat may be issue.

1/4 die grinder is 20 bucks and burs about same.

Get a GOOD ONE from industrial supply.

Look for 1/8 sizes too as grinder should come with both sizes collets.

It takes time but you start at the ends and work in being very careful.

Cut from center towards outside and use ATF as coolant.

Cover all of it as the vibration and heat will allow it to soak in.

If you get a hole started in one end you may be able to drill out the center.

If so, work up to larger sizes but do not go all the way to end as that leaves something to drive the pin with via a drift punch.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
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