Redlineman's Logan 200 Rescue

Yeh;

Indeed, I need to revisit that. I did put them in upside down at first. I'm not impressed with makeup and alignment of all that stuff. Kinda cheapy. It aint no Hardinge, that's for sure.

Oh... I better not bash my own brand, eh? I might get ****** at myself and start a fight.
 
TomKro said:
Any possibility the spacers (LA-348) are in backwards?
The ones on my saddle have a notch to clear a ridge in the bottom of the saddle.
Click to expand...
Those spacers gave me all kinds of fits ... until I got them orientated correctly.
 
NOOOOOOOOOOOB!

I've done all kinds of things in my life, but this is the first time I've put a lathe back together. In the last episode, I had only the front gib in place, and was adjusting it and sliding the saddle back and forth by hand. The apron was hanging on the lead screw nearby. At some point I punted; deciding to put the rear gib on and get it the best I could. It did not occur to me until I put the apron on and cranked it what was at play here.

I had not factored in the multiplied torque offered by the pinion drive, nor the force it applies in absolute linear fashion. WHOOOOOSH went the carriage back and forth. Dang... I can tighten the gibs even more!!! Striking a balance between free movement and hitting the unworn portions of the ways - well down tailstock way, and far up under the chuck - I have a carriage that spins easily, and sits snugly on the ways.

:victory:

Now for the crossfeed, and I know for a fact that it is... um... compromised.
 
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I agree that was kind and generous of TomKro. Good on you TomKro. I enjoy this forum because of the people with experience who are willing to offer thoughtful suggestions to help others. This is my first crack at rebuilding a lathe and I usually need all the help I can get.

Best of luck to both of you on your s-l-o-w race. However, if the slowest wins I may be in contention.

Mike B.
 
:thinking:

This little victory doesn't really amount to much. A big fuss over nothing as it turned out. I've had or created a few of those in this process, stalling my ambition to proceed. Yet, I am utterly psyched to have this turn out so well, trivial as it is in reality. Sometimes it seems like it is such a long fight, and it can get tiresome.

Don't let those huge monsters you create in your own mind divert you from the goal. Don't be emotional. Be clinical, computerized, soulless, and binary. Plod methodically on as if it is a certainty, and setbacks do not exist. Deal with it emotionless. Setbacks are discoveries of need, and forward progress in and of themselves, not failures. Accomplish the little mission, rejoice upon completion, draw inspiration, then reset and move on.

To the Crossfeed!

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8376317-hero-emoticon.jpg
 
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Hey, Redlineman.

Not to bring up a sore subject but I need to remove the apron on my lathe and was wondering what steps you take to do so. Any chance you could list the steps you take?

I feel your frustration on bringing a 1942 vintage lathe back to serviceable life. I have to confess I've been looking at new 12 X 36 lathes because I have projects I would like to be able to turn some parts for instead of working on the parts turner. The good news is if I get frustrated I can walk away and let it ferment until I can come back with a better attitude. Anyway, it doesn't look like you are too far away from being done. Hopefully, the majority of work is behind you.

Mike B.
 
Hey Mike;

Yeh... the big stuff is done. It's money time now. Getting all the fiddlies taken care of, and then the arduous task of aligning everything. I know my crossfeed screw is... um... kinda screwed up. Wish I had the coin to just buy a new one, or the ability to MAKE one. Lots of fiddling left to do for sure.

I've got to revisit the driveline vibration issue a bit. I've been ruminating over ways to further isolate the drive box from the lathe. Something clever that would not require any major rework or modification.

Saddle? Easy. I've done it enough times!

- Remove the bolt up front that secures miter gear bracket LA-196 and let it flop down.
- Remove the two Allen bolts on top.
- Remove the leadscrew end bracket LA-167 and support the leadscrew until....
- Open the half nut, and wangle the apron down toward the tailstock and off the leadscrew.

I was going to tell you that you also need to remove the locking collar LA-239 from the tailstock end of the leadscrew, but looking at the diagram for part numbers now shows me that my lathe was put together wrong. My LA-239 was inside LA-167, but the diagram shows it on the outside of the drive end bracket LA-166, opposite the other lock ring LA-169. Not sure it makes any difference. I'll have a look, but will probably put it back where Logan says.

Need any gears? I've got spares!
 
Redlineman, thanks for that.

I'm not sure what I'll find inside the apron. What I know is that everything works right now but my concern is the half-nut. With the lathe turned off and the half nut engaged there is major play between the lead screw and carriage while lightly rocking the hand wheel back and forth. The carriage feeds fine while turning but I suspect it might be a major issue while threading. I don't see any wear on the lead screw threads that would cause the amount of play between the half nut and lead screw that I'm getting. That's why I suspect I may have to invest in a new or restored half nut. Admittedly, I'm not sure how much play is normal. I think the only way I'll know is to take the apron off to get a good look at the half nut and see how good or bad the wear is on the threads and mount.

Thanks, again.

Mike B.
 
Damn, damn, damn....

How prophetic was I in my last post? Screwed by screws indeed. I've spent some time recently working on the crossfeed, and my excitement at the generosity of my fellow traveler MikeB has been replaced by bummage. Of all the things you'd really like to have spot on, this is vying for the top spot. Top five at least. My cross screw has at least a 10* wank in the end where the handle sits. Some clod really zorked the thing at some point. Sort of typical for clods to do this to lathes. I found a decent looking screw on fleabay, but unfortunately, while it is far better than mine, it is not as good as I had hoped. It has far better threads on the end, and seems straight there, but has about 7-10 thou runout in the shaft under the screw bushing LA-254.

In adjusting these handles, you'd like all the bits to be perfectly square to the shaft and flush to each other to minimize lash. Unfortunately, if you have any runout in the shaft, you have to compensate by allowing a bigger gap between the locking nuts 0530 and the graduated collar LA-171 so that things can wobble in freedom without binding. Make it snug and its tight loose tight loose when you crank it. Any gap there translates directly into lash in the compound. Damn.

Just about fit to be tied, not having the chops to do it myself, not willing to compromise, and having any way out but to buy a new screw. REEEEEALLY gnaws at my innards. REEEEEALLY hate not being able to solve it on my own with what I have. Character flaw, perhaps.

This is a three-steps-back moment.

:crushed:
 
Cross feed or compound?? Is the slop in the bushing itself?

I think each of these screws could stand a thrust bearing on each side. Which won't help your 10* bend, but may on the other.
 
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