Red Threadlocker

Thanks again guys. I already can't budge this thing by hand. And I ain't taking a wrench to it.

I remember the 'old stuff' as well. My mentor would clean both the barrel and comp threads, throw some red loctite on it, and it started setting before he could get the comp all the way on. And he was hurrying!
 
Locktite 271, red, advertises it cures in 10 minutes. I put an oilite bushing in a drilled hole (using prep stuff) it was set in 10 minutes.
 
I remember the green bearing and sleeve stuff. If you stopped at all while seating it stayed right there. The new green stuff gives you time to set the bearing.
 
I am still using Loctite thread locking products that are more than three decades old. I can hardly read the labels, but it still works now as good as it did then. Besides the size of the gap, the ambient temperature also plays a big part in how long it takes to cure. Hot steel, out in the sun, and a tight fit, you had better not stop turning that bolt and not turn it slowly either, or it will stick partway installed. In cold weather it will take much longer to cure. Thread lockers can be loosened by using heat of around 300-400 F. Do not reuse if heated and disassembled. Clean up the old sealant, a rotary wire wheel works well, then reassemble with a new dose of thread locker. Great stuff. I think I have about every thread/bearing/sleeve product they make except the purple, low strength stuff. I need to get some, very useful product.
 
Yea, I'm using this Permatex stuff. So far, so good, but I think I'll go get myself some of the real Locite for the future.
 
Isn't it great how so many of us retired folk have things we used in our working life so we can continue, what on Earth ever told me I'd need red and blue threadlocker over 15 years later. Or some ORIGINAL TapMagic. That stuff is great.
 
lord knows what breathing all these gallons of chemicals are doing..lol...might be why anything rubber in my house turns white in no time
 
Be sure to shake it before you use it! If you don't it seems to be thinner and take longer to set up. The little tubes I squeeze from end to end to mix. (from experience - there are 1,872 10mm bolts in the tracks of a snow cat. Each bolt red thread locked - times 5 snow cats!)
 
I'm not a gunsmith by any stretch of the imagination, but it seems to me like 271/red is overkill, isn't it??
 
Red works good where there is heavy vibration or extreme loads on the fasteners. Use it when you consider the assembly to be semi permanent. Green, listed for bearing and sleeve mounts but used for bolts too, is even tougher yet. I do not consider any of the products overkill, just depends on time between disassembly and the operating conditions of the parts. On a race car, your mileage may vary compared to putting new track cleats on a D9 Cat dozer. Even the really strong anaerobic sealants are pretty easy to remove with some heat. Purple is good for when you do not want it to vibrate loose, but want it easy to disassemble.

BTW, I have used and handed out those products more than enough to fill 55 gallon barrels, and for different employers, but I have never even seen a container of activator. I am totally aware of its existence and the uses for it, but it seems nobody really uses it. NASA?
 
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