Red Threadlocker

[Bob Korves]

Primer is needed for some metals:

Primer is optional with:
Active surfaces: Brass, copper, bronze, iron, soft steel, nickel.
Primer is required with:
Inactive surfaces: Aluminum, stainless steel, magnesium, zinc, black oxide, cadmium, titanium

Edit: BTW, only one surface needs to be active...

 

[Groundhog]

I've used both thread locker primer and activator to aid setup in cold weather. Thread locker primer helps it to set faster & harder up when cold. Activator makes it set up very quickly after spraying on the activator.

 

[Bob Korves]

Another useful product is wicking grade Loctite, You apply it after the nuts and bolts are torqued, and it wicks into the threads. It is especially useful for when you need to torque a number of bolts in a specific sequence, and then repeat to a higher torque, where regular Loctite might set up before you were finished.

 

[TOOLMASTER]

I'm not a gunsmith by any stretch of the imagination, but it seems to me like 271/red is overkill, isn't it??

depends..i use it a lot for metal to metal non treaded...holds it together forever

 

[wrmiller]

I only use it on threaded compensators. And I have see some unscrew themselves. Usually at the wrong time of course. Not any of mine though (knock on wood...). Lots of heat and shock in a competition gun.

 

[Groundhog]

As long as we are here I might add one other product. Hydraulic/Pneumatic sealant. This is NOT pipe thread stuff (Teflon or whatever). When set it WILL block hydraulic system ports if your not careful (ask me how I know). It also acts as a thread locker. It was a necessity on some of the snow cat's 8,000psi drive systems.