Recommendations for parts cleaner fluid...

clear kerosene. No Odor no Sore Hands.
There must be a difference/misunderstanding of terms here. 100% of the kerosene I have purchased, over probably 50 years, has been colorless (clear) and it irritates my hands (skin) with extended use.

Is there another term, other than 'clear kerosene', for the solvent you're referring to?
 
Kerosene and No. 1 Fuel Oil are high grade fuels, but that doesn't mean they will be free of rank odor.

Kersoene is more oily than Stoddard. Kero's cut points are 9 to 16 carbons vs. Stoddard's 7 to 12. Kerosene is "less pure" than Stoddard. Kero allows 25% paraffins, 30% monocyclics, 12% dicycloparaffin, 1% tricycloparaffin, 16% mononuclear aromatics, and 5% dinuclear aromatics. That's like comparing stinky tar-pit sludge to white lightning in a sense. Kero is loose with its chemistry because it is a fuel, Stoddard is an industrial solvent, so it is in fact much more pure and less likely to stink.

Like I said before, you can buy coal tar in a can labeled light fuel stoddard if you want a cheap fuel, or you can buy clean solvent intended to be used as solvent if you want a solvent. Fuel oils or cans of petrochemicals intended to be burnt will always be filthy and stinky. The Stoddard solvent they sell at Napa for $45 per 5-gal can is very low odor, crystal clear, and dries clean, because it is intended for parts washers. Napa also sells kerosene meant to burn in the same can on a different pallet, and that crap stinks. The rest is up to you. If you think red dyed diesel with ATF is good enough at $2 per gallon, then more power to you. You get what you pay for.
 
I just pulled the product literature for Safety-Kleen again. Their product technical data sheet says this is a Stoddard solvent intended for degreasing tanks. The SDS says petroleum distillates, 100%. Remember "distillates" can refer to anything from naphthalene to kerosene in end-of-pipe terms.

The SDS for cheap No. 1 Fuel Oil (kerosene) is nearly indistinguishable from that of Safety-Keen. But the fuel oil is intended to be a fuel, not a solvent. It stinks to high heaven and leaves an oily residue.

So even if you don't know coal tar from Shinola, you can select a product best suited for solvent degreasing from the intended use that the manufacturer describes in their technical data sheet for the product. Solvent good, fuel bad.

Solvents:
Naphtha, VM&P and Solvent Naphtha
Mineral Spirits
Petroleum distillates
Stoddard Solvent
Light aliphatics


Fuels:
Kerosene
Diesel
Fuel oil
Coal tar
Range oil
Medium to heavy aliphatics

Contaminants that cause odor:
Sulfur, Nitrogen, Oxygen (heteroatom substitution)
Branching
Cyclics/Aromatics
ketones/ethers (sweet volatiles)
 
Well, I ended up going with Oil Eater water based cleaner ($54 for 5 gal), and used 10 gal of cleaner and 15 gal of water, and it cleans really well. Did all small parts, and the table with cold mix, and when the submersible heater I ordered from Amazon ($28) showed up, I let it warm up over lunch with the saddle soaking in the tank cover closed, and it made a big difference. It was good cold, but great warm. I think if I had left it in a few more hours all of the paint would have been gone. When I cleaned the table, the shelf in the tank didn't take kindly to the weight, and folded up the shelf and tore off the sheet metal support brackets. I straightened up the shelf, and reinforced it with 1x1/8" angle, and made the support brackets full length out of the same material, and attached each one with four 1/4" bolts with a good bead of silicon. Should support anything I would set on it now. When I pull parts out of the tank I spray them off with water, and dry them with an air gun. Really like the no smell/nonflammable advantages, and possible health upside, and of course relatively low cost compared to solvent. Mike


IMG_20230125_141724440_HDR.jpgIMG_20230127_165639016_HDR.jpgIMG_20230203_132833156_HDR.jpgIMG_20230206_133753770_HDR.jpgIMG_20230206_135620495_HDR.jpgIMG_20230206_160534627_HDR.jpgIMG_20230206_160620385_HDR.jpgIMG_20230206_160644584_HDR.jpgIMG_20230206_161728802_HDR.jpgIMG_20230206_163336378_HDR.jpgIMG_20230206_170436007_HDR.jpg
Yum! Oil Eater
 
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There must be a difference/misunderstanding of terms here. 100% of the kerosene I have purchased, over probably 50 years, has been colorless (clear) and it irritates my hands (skin) with extended use.

Is there another term, other than 'clear kerosene', for the solvent you're referring to?

Woods Clear Kerosene, Triple Filtered Fuel For Camping Wick-Feeding Lanterns & Heaters, 3.78-L​

no odor does not irritate skin. burn it when it gets oily.
 
The Stoddard solvent they sell at Napa for $45 per 5-gal can is very low odor, crystal clear, and dries clean, because it is intended for parts washers. Napa also sells kerosene meant to burn in the same can on a different pallet, and that crap stinks. The rest is up to you. If you think red dyed diesel with ATF is good enough at $2 per gallon, then more power to you. You get what you pay for.

The cheapest Napa "parts cleaner" costs $130/5 gallons in my area.

Parts Washer Chemical Blaster​

 
it's the sulphur content that stinks just like the old diesel fuel used to. Triple-filtered fuel that can be burned without the fear of fumes and it is low in sulphur content. any camping store will have it.

It seems to be a Canadian product. Not seeing US based stores selling Woods or Recochem.
 
It seems to be a Canadian product. Not seeing US based stores selling Woods or Recochem.
I wonder if these are triple filtered.


 
.... ok ... here is a very *very* minor gripe, but if your petroleum solvent is high enough in sulfur compounds to stink (badly), it will also eat zinc. That keeps [edit] 7075, brass AND bronze out of your tank - well, because it leaches the *copper* out of the alloy almost as well as the zinc.

Now if all you do is dunk, brush, and blow off, no probs at all. if you *soak* like I do, then you have to go to 0% sulfur low odor varsol to stay away from the sulfur. (the stinky varsol has other components that seem unfriendly to 7075 aluminum, but I haven't investigated)

I now have a citiric acid bath for primary derusting, an evaporust tank for secondary derusing, and a low odor varsol bath for cleaning. I use acetone to clean off parts from the varsol tank before bead blasting and painting.
 
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