(re) Inventing the (hand) Wheel

12bolts

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My mill had cheap and nasty plastic hand wheels that were cracked and broken when I got the mill, (2nd hand)
I patched and glued and persevered with them for a while, but eventually they became unuseable and when needing to use the mill for a rush job I fabbed up a couple of really nasty handles to get me through. I got sick of looking at them and decided to fix the issue.
So I repaired the least worst plastic handle with glue and builders bog and used that as a pattern for my new handles.
I cut the counterweighted section out of the handle also. The original handles had steel inserts moulded into them and I thought that seemed to be the best approach this time and save some machining later.
IMG_6373_zpscf91dc7e.jpg
From left is one of the crappy plastic handles with the counter weight section still intact. Next is one of my really nasty fab handles I needed in a hurry. Then the pattern handle, (I found a piece of dowel that was just the right size to be the dummy centre when ramming my pattern up). A new handle just out of the sand with the steel centre bush securely locked in place forever, and the smaller threaded fitting in the perimeter for the crank handle. Lastly a handle assembled with its graduated dial and "cheap plastic crank"
So now I guess I need to make some nice ally spinny crank handles to finish the job properly.
Should I go with tapered handles like I have now or teardrop ones? Opinions anyone?

Cheers Phil

IMG_6373_zpscf91dc7e.jpg
 
My mill had cheap and nasty plastic hand wheels that were cracked and broken when I got the mill, (2nd hand)
I patched and glued and persevered with them for a while, but eventually they became unuseable and when needing to use the mill for a rush job I fabbed up a couple of really nasty handles to get me through. I got sick of looking at them and decided to fix the issue.
So I repaired the least worst plastic handle with glue and builders bog and used that as a pattern for my new handles.
I cut the counterweighted section out of the handle also. The original handles had steel inserts moulded into them and I thought that seemed to be the best approach this time and save some machining later.
View attachment 82944
From left is one of the crappy plastic handles with the counter weight section still intact. Next is one of my really nasty fab handles I needed in a hurry. Then the pattern handle, (I found a piece of dowel that was just the right size to be the dummy centre when ramming my pattern up). A new handle just out of the sand with the steel centre bush securely locked in place forever, and the smaller threaded fitting in the perimeter for the crank handle. Lastly a handle assembled with its graduated dial and "cheap plastic crank"
So now I guess I need to make some nice ally spinny crank handles to finish the job properly.
Should I go with tapered handles like I have now or teardrop ones? Opinions anyone?

Cheers Phil

I think you should offer the raw castings to members on here, I'm sure we would be willing to pay a reasonable sum foe your time & materials.

fixit
 
Inspiring indeed! I ran the crucible and poured the aluminium for a few years at a small sand casting foundry even built a crucible there...I might have to do it again here on the farm :)
that was many years ago but it's like riding a bike .....thanks looks like a great job
 
Nice work!

I didn't know what "builders bog" is but as usual Google helped. I believe it is similar to what we call "Bondo" here in the US.
 
Very nice work indeed!! Personally I like the feel of teardrop handles. Someday I'll get around to spinning some up for my lathe.

Richard
 
Beautiful work. As far as the handles, I have always been fond of the teardrop style, much more comfortable in the hand. If you get the itch, you could probably sell those wheels on E-bay, the plastic ones have a tendency to expire well before the parent machine.
 
I ordered a couple of the these off Ebay to replace the "handles" (well a couple of bolts with a bit of copper tube over them) that were on my mill when I brought it - and they arrived today. They feel solid enough and for the price (about 9 pound for two including postage) I couldn't complain. 10 minutes in the garage and they are already installed.

I know its cheating, but I'm a beginner and they look better than anything I think I could make - yet.

$_57.jpg
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Milling-Mac...182?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item43bbc0467e


photo.JPG

$_57.jpg photo.JPG
 
I think you should offer the raw castings to members on here, I'm sure we would be willing to pay a reasonable sum foe your time & materials.

fixit

Hmmmm Yeah but the postage might be a deal killer

cheers Phil
 
Very nice work, Phil. A great improvement to your mill I'm sure.

You have reminded me that casting is a skill I want to learn at some point.
 
nice wheels. many friends inquire as to what the heck I ever use my smelter for, they fail to notice the dozens of handles, brackets, mounts, boxes and everything else in the shop and house that was cast and machined. I cant see having a home machine shop without one, many times it is the only tool in the shop that will do the job.
 
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