R-8 Self centering chuck for a mill?

Sorry to neglect this thread everyone.. I've been looking at vises, and a few other things.

I'm liking the boring head idea and making one happens to be one of the projects in my getting started book. I am envisioning mounting a chuck on my rotary table to hold the part, boring the center hole, taping it, then turning the OD step to the desired size using a boring head as suggested... Does that sound like a good approach?

I would buy the bungs, however I have quite a bit of solid bar on hand, and need the experience!!

Thanks for the help!
-Kory
 
hahahah No worries. It was those very bungs that got me into machines. 5 bucks is pretty cheap till you need a bunch and it adds up. And God forbid your first concept dont work and you have to do it all over. Plus your not limited to what others make.

Whats this book you got? Getting started?
 
The book is "Milling for the Home Machinist". Its a small book with a few nice projects that build on one another a bit.

My wife bought me the book for Christmas last year after helping me decide that a change needed to be made in my life. I became quite ill in 2008, and had to give up a wonderful career. I spent the better part of 4-5 years getting well.

I am far healthier, happier, and wiser now after my illness, and am headed in a new direction that will hopefully bring me happiness and far less stress.

I really appreciate your help and direction Chuck. As much as I wanted the vise I mentioned in the other thread your advice and the others that chimed in showed me a better route, just like in this thread. I tend to throw a lot out there in a thread hoping to get a bunch of feedback that I can boil down to a good resolve.. this forum delivers that every time!

Thanks everyone!

Once my vise, and rotary table get here, I'll chime back in on this thread to get some help with figuring out what I'll need to make the bungs.

-Kory
 
If you're getting a rotary table, just use it with an end mill. Center the end mill in the Y or X axis on the part, move it to the piece, turn the rotab. A lighter mill may see some chatter, but, lighter cuts may relieve that.

The reason I say this is, with a CNC mill, you can mill round shapes (or oval, or elliptical, etc., etc.). You can mill darn near any part that you would normally turn. Well, a manual mill with a rotary table gives you a similar capability, excluding elliptical parts barring some extreme circumstance/equipment.
 
Pat- I've abandoned the R-8 chuck idea, as I have purchased a rotary table.
I will certainly try what you are describing. It seems like it would work well for both the horizontal or vertical positioning of the RT.

I need to make a spacer first to lift the RT a bit... when I disengage the worm gear the handle doesn't clear the mills table. Once I finish that, I will give it a try, and chime back in! I'll post a few photos as well.

Thanks!
 
Not a problem, friend. My only recommendation is, make sure the parts are held well and make sure that your mill is trammed well to the table, and the rotab parallel with the table. Right-hand-helix tools produce a lifting force on work, so if the piece isn't clamped or chucked well, it can be pulled up and out. But it should give no issue, and of course, making sure the workpiece is secured properly is really step 1 for any setup.

Glad I could help you, though!
 
Pat- You say right-hand-helix tools produce a lifting force on the workpiece... maybe a very dumb question, but with a right-hand-helix, would running the machine in reverse have the opposite effect? This would be down-milling, right?

I plan to be extremely cautious with clamping. I need all my fingers and both eyes... rather valuable to me!
 
negatronix said:
Pat- You say right-hand-helix tools produce a lifting force on the workpiece... maybe a very dumb question, but with a right-hand-helix, would running the machine in reverse have the opposite effect? This would be down-milling, right?

I plan to be extremely cautious with clamping. I need all my fingers and both eyes... rather valuable to me!
Click to expand...
Then the cutter won't be cutting at all. It'll just run the wrong way and get dull. Heck, if you do it long enough, you'll friction weld it to the work piece.
 
Xalky- I see what you are saying... I guess I don't understand how the lift would be prevented.. That's why I put the dumb question comment.

Will you explain what I am missing here..?

Thanks!
 
negatronix said:
Xalky- I see what you are saying... I guess I don't understand how the lift would be prevented.. That's why I put the dumb question comment.

Will you explain what I am missing here..?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Right hand cut, Left hand spiral, down cut end mills exist. The helix is backwards from a normal end mill, strange looking things. They put down pressure on the work when cutting. I have only used them in CNC routers when cutting plastic. They do exist for metal cutting, but are not common.

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