Question re: boring bushings for Atlas 6 inch lathe

If you are using Oilite or similar generic bushings of some sort, and there are a lot of types of 'oilite', you must be careful machining them. It is very easy to smear the material and plug the pores that allow oil to reach the shaft on some types. The tooling needs to be SHARP, and needs to cut cleanly, no smearing. It is really useful to study oil impregnated bushings and learn of the various types, and their strengths and limitations. It is pretty easy to install something that will not work well or for long if you are not careful. Try to find application data for anything you intend to use, and check for compatibility with what you are doing.
 
Woodsman 22 said:
The spindle that rides in those bearings miked to .49975"
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.49975" is a pretty fine resolution reading for an old lathe countershaft, just sayin'... The .501" finished bore sounds fine, or maybe a little larger... ;)
 
Bob Korves said:
.49975" is a pretty fine resolution reading for an old lathe countershaft, just sayin'... The .501" finished bore sounds fine, or maybe a little larger... ;)
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Actually, that measurement is from the brand new countershaft that I ordered from Clausing. Sorry, I guess I did not make that very clear. The old one is worn and scored from not getting enough oil, and that is one disadvantage that I see with "oilite" bearings-many people generally seem to think that they never need oiling. In this case at least, Atlas did provide oil holes in the countershaft housing but from the looks of that old countershaft, the previous owner/s never put oil in those holes. Thanks very much for your responses to my question- it is really appreciated!
 
Bob Korves said:
If you are using Oilite or similar generic bushings of some sort, and there are a lot of types of 'oilite', you must be careful machining them. It is very easy to smear the material and plug the pores that allow oil to reach the shaft on some types. The tooling needs to be SHARP, and needs to cut cleanly, no smearing. It is really useful to study oil impregnated bushings and learn of the various types, and their strengths and limitations. It is pretty easy to install something that will not work well or for long if you are not careful. Try to find application data for anything you intend to use, and check for compatibility with what you are doing.
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At this point I think I will call Clausing to see if they still have these bushings in stock and simply ordering them from Clausing and install those instead of trying to bore another set of new ones from the local bearing store or even trying to rebore the ones I put in previously to make the bore straight. I don't doubt what you say about plugging the pores of the bore by trying to ream them to size with dull tooling- which is why my original effort to bore them on the cheap with a home made "D" reamer was a bad idea, I guess.

My inexperience is getting me a little frustrated. My reasoning is that by the time I spend $33.00 at MSC for a new .501" American made reamer (add shipping to that) or take chances on an adjustable reamer of unknown quality from Ebay (which will most likely not be very sharp) and buy another pair of generic oilite bushings from the local supply house, etc., I might as well go with the Clausing bushings (if available) and install those in the hopes that they will simply "work" as installed. Again; thank you for your knowledge and input. And I will study up on "oilite' bushings. It pays to know these things.
 
Even buying new bushings from Clausing may/will require reaming to get your new shaft to pass thru and work. It needs to have about .0015-.0020" running clearance when assembled. Also, if the old yoke did not have any gits oil cups, it might be wise to drill holes and install some. McMaster-Carr has them down to a 3/16 hole size so you don't have to have too big of a hole for them. Rather they are Oilite or plain bronze bushings, they need a little oil once in a while!
 
4gsr said:
Even buying new bushings from Clausing may/will require reaming to get your new shaft to pass thru and work. It needs to have about .0015-.0020" running clearance when assembled. Also, if the old yoke did not have any gits oil cups, it might be wise to drill holes and install some. McMaster-Carr has them down to a 3/16 hole size so you don't have to have too big of a hole for them. Rather they are Oilite or plain bronze bushings, they need a little oil once in a while!
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- Thanks for that information. Actually, Atlas does have holes in the yoke for oil, but no gits cups. And there were no holes bored through into the old bushings. One explanation that I have read elsewhere on this is that Atlas engineers felt that the oil would "soak" into the oilite bearings (or bushings- I don't know what term is more appropriate) without drilling holes all the way through into the bushings. Indeed, when I took the old bushings out, there were no oil holes drilled in them (but the spindle was badly scored and worn- hence I ordered a new spindle).
Now, one of the moderators over at the "Beginners" forum here felt that bushings from Atlas/Clausing once pressed in should accept the spindle without any further reaming. His idea is that the designers would have wanted that in order to avoid another step in the manufacturing process (and added expense). I am hoping he is right since if that is so, it will save me from having to worry about getting the reaming setup rigid enough on my little Chinese lathe to allow me to ream those bushings without having the whole setup slip on me like it did last time. I have my fingers crossed an am ordering new bushings from Clausing, if they are available. Thanks again for your input- it is all good and valuable to me.
 
You could line bore it.

The old lathes had t slots on tge carriage to allow something to be attached.

Process was to attach part to carriage then place cutter in a bar supported by tail stock that went through the part.

The carriage moved the part along and the cutter did the work.

If you just have a bushing in error remake the bushing.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk
 
tq60 said:
You could line bore it.

The old lathes had t slots on tge carriage to allow something to be attached.

Process was to attach part to carriage then place cutter in a bar supported by tail stock that went through the part.

The carriage moved the part along and the cutter did the work.

If you just have a bushing in error remake the bushing.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk
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Thanks, I appreciate your input on the matter, but I just talked to Clausing Tech guy this morning and he tells me that the relevant part (bushing 10-264) that they still have, once pressed into the countershaft holes, SHOULD (caps for emphasis, not for "shouting") allow the spindle to just slip right in place. I ordered the new bushings from Clausing this morning.
 
When you get the bushings, Measure the OD of them and compare to the ID of the housing they are getting pressed into. Also measure the ID and compare to the shaft OD. Again, as I said above, there should be .0015-.0020" clearance when done. If they have .0015" to .0020" press fit into the housing, you will loose about the same amount in the ID of the bushing, so be careful! Fix the bushings before installing, if they will be undersize when installed. Ken
 
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