Possible To Convert Metric Mitutoyo Height Gauge To Imperial?

[Holescreek]

Sorry for the delay in getting the model numbers. One was in the shop and every time I was in there, something shiny caught my attention. One is a 192-613 and the other is a 192-601. Both are strictly metric and as others have pointed out, I can always sell them and buy what I need which I might do.

I'd still like to see a pic of the faces, one thing I've seen over many years of repairing gauges is that most companies don't design their electronic gauges to only do one thing, it's not cost effective. Often times there is a way to switch them even if internally. Other times a button sequence will do the trick.

 

[Techie1961]

I'd still like to see a pic of the faces, one thing I've seen over many years of repairing gauges is that most companies don't design their electronic gauges to only do one thing, it's not cost effective. Often times there is a way to switch them even if internally. Other times a button sequence will do the trick.

That would be amazing if possible. It has been a rough three years after three back surgeries and money is very tight right now for buying a new one.

 

[Holescreek]

Mixed news. The part number of the circuit board in the 192-601 is exactly the same as the part number of the board in the 192-605 which is "in/mm" What that tells me is that your cover is just missing the button right between the "PRE" and "ON/OFF" buttons. So technically (if you're adventurous) you can make the unit switchable with a couple of holes and a paper clip if you were so inclined. That height gauge came out in 1981 and there are no new parts available for it.

The 192-613 circuit board is one number different from it's in/mm relative so it may not be capable of changing. If it was, you'd get a change by pressing the bottom right button. I'd guess they didn't put the capability on the chip set though.

 

[Techie1961]

View attachment 118894 Mixed news. The part number of the circuit board in the 192-601 is exactly the same as the part number of the board in the 192-605 which is "in/mm" What that tells me is that your cover is just missing the button right between the "PRE" and "ON/OFF" buttons. So technically (if you're adventurous) you can make the unit switchable with a couple of holes and a paper clip if you were so inclined. That height gauge came out in 1981 and there are no new parts available for it.

The 192-613 circuit board is one number different from it's in/mm relative so it may not be capable of changing. If it was, you'd get a change by pressing the bottom right button. I'd guess they didn't put the capability on the chip set though.

Holescreek you're awesome! I pulled the cover off the 601 unit and like you show in the photo, it has the in/mm button on it. I opened the hole through the cover and was about to try it but the movement wasn't acting nice. I pulled it apart and the clock spring on the one gear was kind of messed up. I did my best to straighten and recoil it and suspect that it's purpose in life is to remove backlash. I'm trying to clean up the rack teeth and gears and will try it out tomorrow.




Do you think that the 192-613 inch equivalent board is still available? It looks like a fairly simple board. If it isn't, I'm going to try to get the 601 unit in nice condition and keep it and sell the other as a mm unit.

Thanks again!

 

[Holescreek]

Edit: I didn't see that you were able to re-coil the spring, there's a teensy bit of hope that you can still use it. The procedure for setting the proper tension is not complicated but is very hard to describe and I'm getting ready to leave work. It isn't just a matter of putting it back in the gauge. Without presetting the tension the gauge won't repeat when you change directions.

 

[turnitupper]

Techie1961,
In the two photos of the gears, it seems they are transposed in the different shots. I have never had a height gauge apart, so I do'nt know if it would matter.
Pretty good job rewinding that spring as I have tried it a couple of times but usually end up bouncing the devices off the floor and into the bin.
Best of luck with the repair.
John.

 

[Techie1961]

Edit: I didn't see that you were able to re-coil the spring, there's a teensy bit of hope that you can still use it. The procedure for setting the proper tension is not complicated but is very hard to describe and I'm getting ready to leave work. It isn't just a matter of putting it back in the gauge. Without presetting the tension the gauge won't repeat when you change directions.

Thanks HolesCreek, I got it back together and it seems nice and smooth as well. I had to fudge the batteries for a test but it works! For the clock spring, I put about a half wind on it and since it's only for backlash, I think it will be alright. I truly appreciate the help and was exactly what I needed. Now if I can get a new board cheap for the 613, I'll be thrilled. I'll probably fix it up and sell it though as a metric unit.

While I had the 613 apart, I found a lot of debris in the cavity where the movement is. There is a brass leaf spring with steel backing that applies resistance to the mechanism so that it doesn't slide down on its own. It had worn through the brass and was rubbing on the steel spring. I cleaned it all out and will make up a new brass slider and polish the rod. Should make a great metric height gauge if I can't get a board.

The 601 now converts to inch at the press of the button. It's a bit submerged but I'll likely make a small plastic button to raise it up a bit. The battery cover is missing and unless I can find a new one, I'll have to make one from aluminum and work out the battery contacts underneath it.

Techie1961,
In the two photos of the gears, it seems they are transposed in the different shots. I have never had a height gauge apart, so I do'nt know if it would matter.
Pretty good job rewinding that spring as I have tried it a couple of times but usually end up bouncing the devices off the floor and into the bin.
Best of luck with the repair.
John.

Thanks Turnitupper, I don't think that it matters at all since it is just for backlash. It works great but time will tell.

 

[Holescreek]

I'm off for the weekend and don't have any parts here to use for pics but maybe I can describe the reassembly of the encoder. Believe it or not it involves an unbent paper clip!

When you flip the encoder over check out the stampings on the top disc. The bottom disc is the same but does not rotate (IIRC). Do not damage the notches around the outer edges. About midway into the disc you'll notice a stamped arrow and a little hole the same diameter as the paper clip.
(1) Rotate the small hole (on the top disc) to the 3 o'clock position and insert the paper clip so the top disc can't rotate.
(2) Place the encoder (with paper clip) into the gauge body with the gears toward the rack but keep the encoder pulled away from the rack initially. Rotate the encoder clockwise so only the bottom gear (with the spring) makes contact with the rack.
Here's the second most tricky part - you may want to practice it a couple of times.
(3) With only the lower gear engaged on the rack, push on the bottom of the body of the gauge to raise is about 1/4"~3/8". This rotates the lower gear to wind the spring. If you did it right you can hear the spring unwind when you pull the gear away from the rack.
(4) Assuming the spring winding went well do #3 again but leave the lower gear engaged with the rack whole you rotate the encoder counter-clockwise to engage the top gear with the rack too. Once in place install the 3 screws and remove the paper clip.

 

[Holescreek]

Good work on the first one. You're all set to go into business! I have no idea what parts are available to you in Canada but I can occasionally get battery covers. BTW, I priced replacement boards and they were over $350 from Mitutoyo.

 

[turnitupper]

I'll likely make a small plastic button to raise it up a bit.

Buy that $6 calculator previously mentioned and use one of the buttons from it or an old remote control or anything that has a similar sized button.
John.