PM-833T Shop Made Base

ahazi said:
The original standoffs threads are M10-1.5, the original bolts were about 4" long which is height of the base at the mounting holes.

I hope this helps.

Ariel
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Thank you very much. I'll check the bolts I have in the morning
 
Been lurking in this thread and thinking - are the PM stands for these larger bench mills not as sturdy/stable as is needed? I've been considering a 932M and it's about the same weight as one of these 833's. It sounds like I might need to consider making something like @ahazi has done here.
 
Mine is fairly sturdy and it works. Having a custom made, heavier, one would be better. If I had the skills, tools and, most importantly, the time to make one I'd have done it.
 
I was just given a decent welder, so i no longer have an excuse for not making a custom stand for my 833 that is still on the floor. The many ideas on here have been invaluable. I could not find a tool cabinet that worked for me, so i'm just going to build a wooden cabinet to isert into the open steel stand. My question is: does anyone know where to find the continuous drawer lip type pulls that you can insert labels into? I've searched around and cannot seem to find anything, but they mus exist in a cut to size version. Basically i want the bright aluminum pulls that are on all my other HF tool chests.
 
I went the same route for my 833 and buld a wooden cabinet / drawers. That allows for a bit more customization on what drawer heights / dimensions you want. To match the look of my other HF cabinets I just used aluminum angle for the pulls. There are custom extrusions for label holders (think price tags on store shelves) but I would expect them to be expensive.
 

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j-becker said:
I went the same route for my 833 and buld a wooden cabinet / drawers. That allows for a bit more customization on what drawer heights / dimensions you want. To match the look of my other HF cabinets I just used aluminum angle for the pulls. There are custom extrusions for label holders (think price tags on store shelves) but I would expect them to be expensive.
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I like how you stepped the drawers back for some work room. How do you like that? is getting stuff out of the drawers a pain? is it way better with the machine overhung a bit? i haven't weld up my stand so i may rethink it a bit.

i've used all sorts of continuous aluminum extruded handles for cabinets. they really are not that exensive. i just cannot find any that have the function for slide in labels.
 
ahazi said:
Question: How to (properly) attach the PM-833T/TV to a shop made base?

I bought the chip tray from PM and I am building my own base with storage drawers. The tray has threaded (10mm) standoffs welded to the tray. Looks like the tray design was picked from the combined tray/base below (without coolant feed and drain.) It does not make sense to me to attach the mill only to the tray and attach the tray to my stand separately as it seems pretty flimsy. I am thinking of grinding out the standoffs and drill holes through the tray to allow 3/8" or 5/16" bolts for attaching to the 1/2" metal plate that is on top of my stand.

See below picture of the tray and the stand from PM. Looks like the standoffs have a rigid welded connection to the base.

View attachment 317758

  1. Is my theory correct?
  2. How did others solve the problem?
  3. Other ideas?

Ariel
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The stand offs may be to stop coolant leakage through the holes between the mill and the tray. My lathe just has holes and I put silicon between the tray and the Lathe but still had issues until I cleaned it up and caulked it.
 
I still like the set-back of the drawers after using the setup for a couple of years. It makes it a bit easier to stand in front of the mill if you don't knock your feet and knees continually. Drawer access is fine, just the top drawer is not easily accessible in the back. I use it to keep spares and rarely used tidbits and have the stuff i store at the front (end mills and such) in bins.

I made the wood drawers 25.5" wide with 3/4 sides. That keeps the drawer fronts and most parts under 24" and makes good use of the birch plywood (which has become surprisingly close to price of cherry these days...). Happy to share the F360 model if that of of any use to you.
 
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