PM-1440BV ordered

Hint: When you get around to it (and do take your time and enjoy the journey) first do the Rollie method and then fine-tune with the two collar method. The results will knock your socks off.

When doing the two collar method, try to find a piece of aluminum round stock at least 2-3" diameter and no longer than 9-10 inches or so.

Once that is dialed in, go ahead and make a two collar long bar (about 1/2" the length of the bed) and get the tailstock centered.

I check mine once in a while just the same way you tram a mill -all part of normal maintenance and operation.

I've got a bunch of threads here on how to fine-tune the D1-4 mounts and static balance your chucks. In no time, it will be a fine-tuned machine.

If you just want to mess around and cut some metal before doing all the fine tuning, go ahead, it won't hurt anything.
You'll love it. And Oh, try not to sleep too many nights in the shop...

Ray
 
I have no idea what I'd do with a lathe that big...but I'd try to think of something! :))

Thanks for posting the pics.

Bill
 
Congrats, man she is a real beauty! I would love to have that lathe!
 
Ray C said:
Hint: When you get around to it (and do take your time and enjoy the journey) first do the Rollie method and then fine-tune with the two collar method. The results will knock your socks off.

When doing the two collar method, try to find a piece of aluminum round stock at least 2-3" diameter and no longer than 9-10 inches or so.

Once that is dialed in, go ahead and make a two collar long bar (about 1/2" the length of the bed) and get the tailstock centered.

I've got a bunch of threads here on how to fine-tune the D1-4 mounts and static balance your chucks. In no time, it will be a fine-tuned machine.
Click to expand...

Thanks Ray, I had planned on the two collar method, had to search for the Rollie method, will definitely include that. Any suggestions on breaking in the gearbox? I figured run it at a relatively low speed for 20 - 30 minutes in each range and change it while warm but if there is anything specific I'd love to hear about it. As you can tell from the "Headstock must be filled oil!" tag, it was shipped dry though there is oil in the feed transmission and apron.
 
mgalusha said:
Thanks Ray, I had planned on the two collar method, had to search for the Rollie method, will definitely include that. Any suggestions on breaking in the gearbox? I figured run it at a relatively low speed for 20 - 30 minutes in each range and change it while warm but if there is anything specific I'd love to hear about it. As you can tell from the "Headstock must be filled oil!" tag, it was shipped dry though there is oil in the feed transmission and apron.
Click to expand...

Not sure what oil they specify for your lathe but for my G4003G 12x36 Grizzly specified the following oil or equivalent, I had a heck of a time finding a supplier who would sell me anything less than 5 gallons. You can get both from McMaster Carr in 1 gallon quantities. Also recommend 2 small oil squirt cans one for each oil. Grizzly has pretty good manuals I recommend you look at the break in procedure for my G4003G gunsmith lathe, its basically running the low speed gear for X then the higher gears for X amount of time, then an oil change. Check the motor to make sure its installed level and the pulleys are aligned, both were out of whack on mine. I also stopped in a Napa auto parts and they were able to find a couple higher quality cogged belts so I replaced the China belts also. Enjoy its a great experience buying one of these lathes!

Mobil Oil, DTE Machine Oil, ISO Grade 32, SAE Grade 10, 1-Gallon (headstock and multiple spring ball oil ports)

Mobil Oil, Vactra #2 Way Oil, ISO Grade 68, SAE Grade 20, 1-Gallon (ways and the 2 quick change gear oil ports)
 
mgalusha said:
Thanks Ray, I had planned on the two collar method, had to search for the Rollie method, will definitely include that. Any suggestions on breaking in the gearbox? I figured run it at a relatively low speed for 20 - 30 minutes in each range and change it while warm but if there is anything specific I'd love to hear about it. As you can tell from the "Headstock must be filled oil!" tag, it was shipped dry though there is oil in the feed transmission and apron.
Click to expand...

Hydraulic oil... ISO 32 if you live in primarily cooler climate or ISO 68 for hot climate. Nothing special needed. NAPA and most auto parts have it in stock. I'm not sure how much the 1440 requires but, I'll guess about 1 gallon or so.

After a couple months of part-time use or, 2-3 weeks of regular daily use, flush and fill. Then, if it's part-time use, you're set for 2 years.


Ray
 
Thanks guys, I had picked up a couple gallons of Mobil from Enco when they were having a sale and used a 20% coupon as well, so I am set, was mostly curious about break in, just in case. I was missing something. I filled it this evening, took just over 3 quarts in the main gearbox, replaced the power cord as it was about a foot too short and powered it up. She seems a happy camper, very smooth and while I didn't run it real fast there was no noticeable vibration. Still more cleaning and setup to do but I had to see it spinning. ;-) supposed to be 64F tomorrow, should be a nice afternoon for playing in the shop when I get home from work.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk
 
mgalusha said:
Thanks guys, I had picked up a couple gallons of Mobil from Enco when they were having a sale and used a 20% coupon as well, so I am set, was mostly curious about break in, just in case. I was missing something. I filled it this evening, took just over 3 quarts in the main gearbox, replaced the power cord as it was about a foot too short and powered it up. She seems a happy camper, very smooth and while I didn't run it real fast there was no noticeable vibration. Still more cleaning and setup to do but I had to see it spinning. ;-) supposed to be 64F tomorrow, should be a nice afternoon for playing in the shop when I get home from work.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I've got a bunch of threads here on how to fine-tune the spindles and balance the chucks... It's worthwhile to check the balance of the chucks and adjust as needed. They're OK but may not be perfectly balanced and it makes a big difference in smoothness.

BTW: Forgot to mention... Just run the machine in each gear for minute and also jiggle the dials on the rod speed selectors... That's a reasonable initial break-in. Nothing special is really needed beyond that. It's not rocket science in there...


Ray
 
For break in on gear heads I hear 10-20mins (Grizzly recommends 20mins) in each gear/speed starting with the slowest speed first & watch for overheating. Overheating would indicate a problem. I ran 10 min periods on mine, let cool, then ran another set of 10min runs, then dumped the oil & put in fresh Mobil on both my lathe & mill. Probably wasn't needed so soon but I have no idea what oil the factory put in as well as dump any major foreign particles that might be in them & it made me feel better knowing what was in there. Both my lathe & mill ran quieter & cooler after the oil change, the mill more.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top