Plugging large holes in 1in plate

A toolmaker once asked me: What is the difference between a machinist and an engineer?
Answer: When a machinist makes a mistake its called a f'up. When the engineer does same, its a design revision :grin:
Test cut vs engineering enhancement. Lol
 
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Just to be fair not all “engineering revisions” are due to mistakes. The company I worked for designed and built most of its processing and packaging machinery. Engineering Changes were necessary when changing product formulas or package styles and dimensions

One of the major engineering changes I was involved with was to modify case packers to be able to pack product that had a package change from a cardboard carton to a plastic tray with a card glued on the back.

It was a drastic change in not only the size of the product package but also it’s rigidity.

Over time the vast majority of the machinery we designed was modified to make more or different products using the same basic structure.
 
Just my 2 cents, but, for your application I would use Loctite Threadlocker Red 271. It is permanent.

 
OP here again:

Excellent discussion everybody!

To those who wonder why I don't have a welder.

I did have a nice new MillerMatic 211 but I used it so seldom, and was so out of practice each of the few times I used it, I decided to sell it after a few years. I needed the floor space more than the welder so off it went. I had a welding booth around it to contain the sparks from my wood walls, and it was just too big.

I decided to proceed with my "bolt plug" idea. Almost went with the solid plug and press fit idea, but I had the proper tap and tap drill on-hand for 9/18-18 holes. Next time I need to plug holes I'll try another approach.

The bolts are just sitting loose in the holes in the pic below. Now I need to figure out how to cut the bolts to the proper length so they sit a little proud at each end after epoxying or loc-titeing them in, then milling or fly-cutting them to the surface. I have a horizontal band saw but the bolt heads make it a little problematic as far as work holding. Tried to find 9/16-18 threaded rod at the local hardware store which would be snap to cut to length, but no stock at two stores. Didn't feel like buying on-line then paying shipping and waiting.

Thinking about gluing them in, then milling the heads off, etc. Or slitting sawing them off.

The object of the exercise is to make an adjustable mini-pallett as the pic below.
A Sine plate?
 
Just to be fair not all “engineering revisions” are due to mistakes. The company I worked for designed and built most of its processing and packaging machinery. Engineering Changes were necessary when changing product formulas or package styles and dimensions

One of the major engineering changes I was involved with was to modify case packers to be able to pack product that had a package change from a cardboard carton to a plastic tray with a card glued on the back.

It was a drastic change in not only the size of the product package but also it’s rigidity.

Over time the vast majority of the machinery we designed was modified to make more or different products using the same basic structure.
Sometimes we issue drawings and documents for approval then issue a AFC revision, sometimes we issue preliminaries for proposal purposes, sometimes they are issued for purchasing while documents are not yet finalized, sometimes they are issues due to client changes and sometimes we issue a revision to correct a mistake. its all fun and games until someone breaks a nail.... :rolleyes:
 
Please,

This has probably been mentioned before many times, but never use chlorinated Brake Cleaner on anything you're going to weld or heat. The chlorinated salts in it produces an extremely toxic gas (Phosgene) when heated. Phosgene was used in WW1 as a chemical weapon, along with more commonly known substances like mustard gas.

Common welding (P95/P100) respirators will not be effective in protecting you from Phosgene.

I recognize that the OP is planning on adhesive, not welding. Just tossing it out there for others following along, or future readers, since it was mentioned as a cleaning method.
 
A Trick I learned from the gray hairs when I was a young welder was to take a plate of aluminum a few inches square and about 1/4 to 3/8 inch thick, And clamp it to the bottom side of the hole you are going to weld, Go ahead and weld it making sure you get the arc down into the aluminum plate at the beginning of your weld and work your way to the top. You will find that the Aluminum does not adhere to the steel filler and the hole is perfectly flat on the bottom side where the plate was. Some of you that have welding machines give it a try. Mig is what we used. ER70-6 wire.
 
Getting the cut bolt parts in with goop will be a pain.

Get some set screws, the come in different lengths, and Allen wrench to install.

Whatever you do, get a good punch with large hammer and stake the bolts after in, place punch vertical next to insert and whack it, do both sides, circle of punches.

After cure sand smooth.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
A Trick I learned from the gray hairs when I was a young welder was to take a plate of aluminum a few inches square and about 1/4 to 3/8 inch thick, And clamp it to the bottom side of the hole you are going to weld, Go ahead and weld it making sure you get the arc down into the aluminum plate at the beginning of your weld and work your way to the top. You will find that the Aluminum does not adhere to the steel filler and the hole is perfectly flat on the bottom side where the plate was. Some of you that have welding machines give it a try. Mig is what we used. ER70-6 wire.
Yep, that works great, as does copper.
 
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