New guy with a few lathe questions

killswitch505

killswitch505

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Howdy from New Mexico. Okay so I've really learned a lot from lurking around the site and really hope to start contributing SOON!!!!! Ive got a grizzly 4016 lathe and Enco mill (sure the model its cold outside and i just pulled and 18hr day) both machines were traded to me by my father for and old shovelhead. I want to tool the lathe before the mill for the work ill be doing the money would be better spent, I'll be making axles, axle spacers, bungs, hand grips, foot pegs and such. My first real purchase was a BXA QCTP (china knockoff) it comes with the 5 tool holders I'm sure y'all are familiar with the set up. I also know that the what's better question its like asking what someone's favorite color is. But..... What's better lol

1. Is bigger better? By this I mean if I were to buy some some T15 tool blanks would there be a need to buy 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 and 5/8 blank? Or just 5/8 and grind tools from that my tool holders will hold a 5/8 tool. I know for a small tool it would be easier to grind out of a smaller blank and that would save time but is the amount time saved that Significant ( I also hate to being wasteful)?

2. On a parting tool I have not found much info is there anything significantly better when it comes to the parting blade being beveled or just being a straight blade

3. From what I'm finding for the most part indexable turning tools would probably be a waist money in my case with this being a hobby to kill time and making cool stuff (really just keeping my butt out in the shop and off the Internet spending money on random BS lol) I'm really looking forward to spending time grinding my own tools. But I really can't justify the the 500+ bucks on a tool grinder. Would any of y'all have any suggestions for economical tool grinding options.

4. videos? I have been watching the MIT prototype machining videos and boy oh boy there is some really cool stuff on those? If y'all know any other entry level type video Suggestions I would greatly appreciate the info.

Thats all I have for now I'm sure I'll have a lot more in the future but these will at least get my to the point that a can get some stuff ordered. Thank you for taking the time to read the new guys post
 
Welcome Killswitch, I am fairly new on the forum as well and have learned a lot from these guys. I use BXA size as and most of my indexable tooling and tool blanks are 5/8". Takes a little while longer to grind, but not a big deal.

- - - Updated - - -

Oh yea, check out Tubalcain on YouTube. Lots of good videos there.
 
Hello Killswitch, for videos on utube: Mrpete222, Tom'sTechniques, Oxtool, Doubleboost, Keith Fenner, there is a lot of info there if you look back to old stuff. Enough to keep you busy for days.
I grind my own HSS tools for my SB13 with a BXA size tool post. I use 1/4", 5/16" and 3/8"
Larry
 
Sandia & LJP thanks for the reply. i got the approval from the finance department (aka my wife) to order some blanks im going to get some 3/8, 1/2 and 5/8. now im going to start looking for a ready built jig or fixture and some stone for my bench grinder any sources or input in that department would be helpful
 
Norton grinding wheels are always good. Lee Valley makes a nice tool rest for a grinder that mounts to the table, not the machine. But you could probably make one.
 
Just get tooling with replaceable inserts, initial cost is more but the time saved is priceless. Tim
 
killswitch505 said:
Sandia & LJP thanks for the reply. i got the approval from the finance department (aka my wife) to order some blanks im going to get some 3/8, 1/2 and 5/8. now im going to start looking for a ready built jig or fixture and some stone for my bench grinder any sources or input in that department would be helpful
Click to expand...


Welcome

I used CRS steel about 1/8" thick and about 1/2" wide as spacers to raise the different size lathe bits to the same height. Made setup easier for me. Cemented carbide tools are good if you have the proper grinding wheel. I seem to recall using changeable inserts on larger lathes with heavier feeds. Start out with HHS tooling you can't go wrong. Buy quality blanks it will pays in the long run.

Consider a coolant system for your lathe and mill, even a mister will help extend the cutting edge of your tooling. You will need a back splash guard for the lathe to keep the chips in the bed.

To keep the Mrs's happy change your shoes when you enter and leave the "Shop", chips will cut up your floors.

Feel free to ask questions, there are many experienced machinists willing to share their knowledge.
 
astjp2 said:
Just get tooling with replaceable inserts, initial cost is more but the time saved is priceless. Tim
Click to expand...

that is what i've been using so far with good results but just like anything else i want to give it a try.


Bill C. said:
Welcome

I used CRS steel about 1/8" thick and about 1/2" wide as spacers to raise the different size lathe bits to the same height. Made setup easier for me. Cemented carbide tools are good if you have the proper grinding wheel. I seem to recall using changeable inserts on larger lathes with heavier feeds. Start out with HHS tooling you can't go wrong. Buy quality blanks it will pays in the long run.

Consider a coolant system for your lathe and mill, even a mister will help extend the cutting edge of your tooling. You will need a back splash guard for the lathe to keep the chips in the bed.

To keep the Mrs's happy change your shoes when you enter and leave the "Shop", chips will cut up your floors.

Feel free to ask questions, there are many experienced machinists willing to share their knowledge.
Click to expand...

thanks bill i will keep the spacers in mind. ive been doing a little research on cooling systems i will check a little more in depth tonight
 
Just my experience, but I have a lathe with a built-in coolant pump and use the old brush-and-cup or recycled pump bottles instead. The coolant works great but it splashes everywhere, gets into the chuck, and generally makes more of a mess than it's worth.

Incidentally, carbide can be cut dry as intermittent cooling tends to crack the carbide, or so I have been told. Probably flood cooling would work, if you need it, but again, prepare to get splashed.

All respect to the concept, but it didn't work for me.

There is a value to serious cooling, however, turning or milling stainless, as it doesn't transmit heat very well and gets pretty hot. The expansion can throw your measurements off. I use a mister on my mill for stainless. Might be a good idea on the lathe as well.
 
Killswitch,
welcome to the forum.
Any one but your Dad and I would say you should have kept the bike.
I use 1/4 -1/2 HSS. you don't really need any fancy grinder table to grind lathe bits.(see tubalchains video on youtube. and other bit sharpening vids there)
A trick I did to save on shimming up smaller bits is I made two bars from mild steel with a pocket milled into them one pocket 3/8 the other 1/4. Then I just set the bit in and clamp it down, so then I just have to adjust a small amount to get center.
One more thing I will tell you up front Mild steels will have a rough finish. Don't blame yourself or the tools.
Mark
 
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