New G0704

The sleave nut is the stock part. it ejects the collet when you losen the draw bar. The draw bar has a 10mm square head witch is a pain so I cut a piece of 13/16" hex bar and broched a square hole to press on. Now I use a 13/16" wrench insted of 10mm.

I feel like I am hijacking this thread but, when I change a collet I take off the sleeve nut, then loosen the draw bar, tap draw board with a piece of wood, and then finish. Is this wrong?
 
I feel like I am hijacking this thread but, when I change a collet I take off the sleeve nut, then loosen the draw bar, tap draw board with a piece of wood, and then finish. Is this wrong?

No that is fine. I went that rought becouse I had the hex bar layinf around.
 
>>What are you G0704 users using for a vise?
>>What types of end mill holders or collets do you recommend?


I got my G0704 in January, and love it.

Vise: I bought the Grizzly G7156 4" vise with the rotary base. Unless I need the rotary base, I use it without the base to make the setup more rigid and to eliminate the base height. But I actually needed the rotary base the other day and was glad I had it.

End mill holders: R8 collets are very difficult to use successfully as end mill holders. You just can't get enough torque on the draw bar to get the collet sufficiently tight. I don't know the spec for an R8 collet, but the nut torque spec on an ER32 collet nut is 100 ft lbs. You aren't going to get there with a tommy bar and a 10mm wrench. I use the end mill holders with the set screws and they have worked very well. I'm about to an an ER40 collet set to the collection and then I'll see how that works.

Plastic gear: I agree with the guy who said "get a spare". That gear died within a couple of hours of initial use. When I got in to look at what happened, it was clear that the motor was positioned incorrectly from the factory and the gear was not full engaged, stripping off all the teeth tips. I cleaned it up as well as I could and repositioned the motor and was able to keep using the machine until the warranty replacement gear arrived, which took six weeks (!). Apparently Grizzly is chronically out of stock on this gear. I ordered two more to have on hand a month ago and won't get them until some time in April.

Digital readouts: I added x, y and z digital scales. I have found I really didn't need the z-axis scale on the head, as the quill has a readout that has met my needs.

Tramming aid: I did that mod, and found it very simple to do and very useful.

I know you will have a lot of fun with this machine - I sure have.

bix
 
bix
Just got my 704 a few weeks ago
big fun so far

whats the "Tramming Aid Mod?
tks
 
5" import vise from Enco. Works pretty darn good for what I need. I will also be doing the tramming aid. It is two small blocks, one on each side of the machine to help fine tune the tram. Some people also add two bolts to the rotating axis for stability. Mine came with 3 bolts.
 
bix
whats the "Tramming Aid Mod?
tks

See http://www.g0704.com/Projects2.html and scroll down the page to Tramming Aid. The g0704.com website has a lot of really good info and ideas.

The tramming aid provides threaded stops pushing on each side of the head, so the head can be moved with the screws instead of tapping with a dead-blow, to get the initial tramming correct. Once the set screws are locked down, they can be swung out of the way to rotate the head, and put back in position when the head is restored to vertical, and they will bring the tram back into alignment. See http://www.cnczone.com/forums/benchtop_machines/96443-new_grizzly_g0704-27.html#post745618 for a better photo of one of these installed on the head which makes it easier to see how it is used. I put them on both sides of the head.

bix
 
Thanks for all the great info guys. I made some chips today. The machine worked well for what I did. I think this is going to be a solid little machine. Hope everyone had a good Easter weekend.
 
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