New D1-4 Spindle

That would be a nice upgrade but you would need different chucks, it’s been a while since I had mine apart but if I remember rite the bull gear is a snug fit on the spindle. If you remove the cone pulley you should be able to change the pin out. The spindle shims will probably need to be changed for the correct fit “lift test” . if your bronze bearings are descent you could probably sell them , do you have the 10L refurbish book ? It has good info for setting it up.

Ps, glad to hear your getting her going
 
So, from what you are saying, it won't be that easy to just switch out the old spindle , put the old bull gear on the new spindle and get it into the machine. I do have the refurbish book from a few years back, but, I am one of those guys who needs to be shown, which Eddye has offered to do.

I will be doing my best to get her going....hope I can do it.....
 
It's not that tough Nelson. Read my rebuild thread as I posted lots of pics of the shins, bearing shells, and of the lift test set up. It's all done by hand and not under power. It just takes time sometimes to get it right as far as the shims go. If need be you can order new shims on Ebay now, a guy is making and selling them and they look nice. I made mine because at the time no one was making them. I have always wanted to upgrade mine to a d14 but it works so I leave it alone.
 
If the new spindle bull gear is in good shape I would just change the pull pin and use the whole new spindle assembly.
Greg’s thread on his refurbish should definitely help with your whole refurbish.
The spindle should be a simple swap, but you will want to get the new spindle oilers (forgot the name) and get the lift test correct, no big deal.
 
I'd just replace the pin, but if you have to tear it down, I would definitely drill some more pin detents in the cone pulley.
 
Well, it has bid up to $600, so I am going to go with my old one. For that price, I bet I can have a new one made!
 
Here it is:

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I did it improperly removing to old spindle gear 9 years ago when I did not have a puller:

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Moronic, and I advertised it on PM and the rest is history:

Here is the good advice I got:

To remove the small left end gear will require you to use a 3 jaw puller. Additionally, you will need to turn an aluminum plug with a center point to stick in the open end of the spindle which will locate the puller's center.
This gear can be tapped back on with a hammer and a large socket or piece of pipe, but using a bench press is a better way to do it.

RemovingSpindleGearson10L.jpg


To remove the bull gear is going to require you to use a bench press to get it off. It is a very tight sliding fit, as you will see if you put it in a 12T press and begin to remove it.
This gear must be pressed back on using the bench press also.
A note of caution here....... although I have never seen this mentioned, when you replace the bull gear the natural thing to do is press it homeagainst the spindle shoulder. My friend and I did this on his 10L and all seemed fine until we mounted the spindle back in place.
The bull gear had zero clearance with the casting of the headstock, and did not allow the spindle to rotate.
We had to remove the spindle and press the bull gear back away from the spindle shoulder until it cleared. (It took us 2 times to get it right)
If you do not own or have access to a 12T bench press, then this is a good time and reason to buy one. You can get it at Harbor Freight for about $129. A POS certainly, as it is made in China, but it will do the job.
Then you will also own a press that you will use for many other things in the future............. pg
Note:
http://www.autozone.com/in_our_store.............THAT WILL WORK FINE.
 
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    Heavy 10 Spindle Removal.....New Thread

    PG,
    I bought the 12T shop press ($129) and a 3 pc3 jaw puller at Horrible Freight as you suggested. I want to put the extended collar handlever closer spindle gear (the one I had to swap for the old one that was for a handwheel) on my spindle.
    The press has two arbor plates that go on the jack arm. The 12T hydrolic bottle jack lowers the pointed projection to the arbor plates.
    My question is how do I set up the spindle which still has the other gears on it and the brass bearings. I dont want to crush or damage anything. Do I set the spindle on the floor
    (NO, see below) with a piece of thick wood under it and press the new gear on by using a steel plate or block of wood under the pointed projection? How would you do it?
    Thanks,
    Thumbz (Nelson)


    Allthumbz......I started a new thread so that Mystery Tour's thread did not get Hi-Jacked.
    You have got to give me a little help here, as I am not real clear on what your question is.
    It sounds like you need to know how to position your spindle in the press to remove/install the gears? Going with that assumption........

    StepstoRemoveSpindle.jpg


    These are the steps (1 through 4) that you need to do to remove the spindle from the large gear.
    The gear face sits on top of the press plates and using a wood block between the ram and the spindle end you press the spindle through the large gear.
    Install is just the reverse............ pg
 
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