New 6" chuck with reversible jaws (finally)

You're better off returning it & getting something better. If you get a replacement set of hard top jaws you will still have to grind them in for your chuck to run true as well as match the height of your master jaws.
 
What I meant was if the issues you mentioned bother you enough it's best to return it & go with something else since you just bought it. Rather than trying to get a set of replacement jaws to fix your concerns. Replacement jaws are never a direct replacement other than bolting onto the master jaws. Relacement jaws always have to be ground in for the chuck it's going on.
 
But if the reversible jaws are at least straight across, and the angles fit each other, it would be easier to grind in and still be able to hold a smaller o.d. piece of material than the tapered jaws would after ya grind them, correct?
 
It's not guaranteed that the replacement jaws will come the way you hope. They might actually have more material on them (left for grinding) than what you have now. The angles you are concerned about is not a detail that is concetrated on with inexpensive asian import chucks. Skipping details like that is how they keep costs down. Might be better off regrinding your existing jaws.

But I could be wrong. You are more than welcome to try. Just sharing my opinion.

Keep in mind, that further reducing those angles so you can grip smaller diameters will reduce the clamping surface area on the jaws. This will affect the performance of the chuck for larger diameters.

How small of a diameter do you want to chuck up? My 6" 3-jaw will grip as small as 9/64" & my 6" 6-jaw only 3/8". Better off using collets or a secondary micro chuck for stuff that small.
 
Mutt said:
I checked the master jaws without the reversible jaws installed. Same thing, but on a smaller scale., Still atleast 1/16" at the ends closest to the headstockView attachment 226125
Click to expand...
I'm by no means an expert ... but here's my take on what's happening ...
Looking at the end of each jaw, there are three "facets." The central facet is the one that makes contact with the part being turned, and it's really the only one that needs to be true. The two side facets are just there for clearance (to allow the jaws to be closed on a smaller workpiece). They have no effect on accuracy or runout. So the manufacturer of the chuck can save a bit of production cost by not doing a precision grind on these surfaces. Looks like that was the case with your chuck. I looked at my 5" Chinese reversible jaw chuck. Same story.

As you said, "It runs way truer than the old original chuck," so it sounds like the surfaces that count were ground correctly.
 
What matters in the end is the TIR of a he chuck. Usually the manufacturer will list that in the specs. If the chuck you purchased is within the listed spec, you got what you paid for.

If this was a used chuck who knows what was done with or to it. What were the terms of purchase? If it is not as described if used or not in spec if new, I'd return it and go to a reputable company and purchase one that has specs to meet your needs.

I recently bought a Gator set true type 3 jaw and am very happy with its performance


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