Need Help identify the wiring on an older GE 5KH45DR92X 115vac Motor

Take an ohm meter and measure that burnt side of plug which is the hot side and the other ohm meter lead to the case of the motor. If you have any kind of reading other than open, you have a short. And that is what it appears to be according to your description and picture.
 
Readings:

1-3=2.2 ohms
1-6=0.5 ohms
2-4=3.6 ohms
3-6=2.2 ohms
1-2=open
1-4=open
1-5=open
2-3=open
2-5=open
2-6=open
3-4=open
3-5=open (Until upper switch closes)
3-5=open
4-5=open
4-6=open
5-6=open

Looks as if there is a centrifugal switch? For Startup?
The copper bars coming out of the bakelite near 3&5 are N.O. and Upper goes to 3, Lower to 5
The ones near 2&6 are N.C. and Upper goes to 2, and no terminals go to the Lower.

All Terminals read open to the case.
 

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Take an ohm meter and measure that burnt side of plug which is the hot side and the other ohm meter lead to the case of the motor. If you have any kind of reading other than open, you have a short. And that is what it appears to be according to your description and picture.
That only happened when I swapped 5&6...NOT doing that again! :eek 2:
 
I think we need to backtrack a bit here because this is making less sense. In your first post we had established there were two groups of wires:
1,2,6 (hot) and
3,4,5 (neutral)
And connecting these to power gave CW rotation, correct?
It looks like 2 and 4 must be the start winding since that is usually the highest resistance winding
If you swap those it should reverse the motor
 
I think we need to backtrack a bit here because this is making less sense. In your first post we had established there were two groups of wires:
1,2,6 (hot) and
3,4,5 (neutral)
And connecting these to power gave CW rotation, correct?
It looks like 2 and 4 must be the start winding since that is usually the highest resistance winding
If you swap those it should reverse the motor
:cheer:You Da Man, swapping 2&4 did the trick! :cheer:

Now for a recommendation for a switch, the motor plate shows 6.4Amp, I usually buy good, not cheap...
 
OK that's a step forward- but
I am still struggling with understanding how the windings are brought out-it's an unusual arrangement and it has a bearing on the type of switch we choose
Let me cogitate on this for a bit and I'll post back
-Mark
 
This must be a split-phase motor. GE made a lot of those for fans. Have a hunch that this motor had two speeds since it appears to have 2 run windings (1&3 and 6&3) wired in parallel. As Mark stated 2&4 is the start winding. That is the best that I can come up with.
 
Yes it is, it's just like a capacitor start motor without the cap. Having the run windings share a terminal must mean it has 2 speeds like you said. Not sure what terminal 5 does, it must be a switch contact which would help explain the short.
Looks like the conventional Furnas "hockey stick" drum switch would work here, or we could use one of the import switches with at least 6 contacts (12 terminals)
I'll post some links, give me a sec
OK, here are two that would work for this application, one delux model and one budget model. Both would work fine I believe
Let me know which you pick and I'll post a hookup diagram
-M

 
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I mounted one of those Amico green box drum switches on my lathe. Got mine for less than $25 and it works just fine. Come to think about it, I think GE made motors like that for washing machines and dryers. Could be wrong on that because a lot of motors were 1/2 hp. But still that would explain for all the extra terminals. Sort of like a general purpose motor.
 
This is the first one I haven't been able to find any info on, but we have enough here so we can connect it- only 1 casualty (burned plug)
-M
 
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