My Precision Mathews PM1340GT Arrival

chuckorlando · Aug 22, 2014

You would have loved learning in a shop that had 2 radius and 2 dia reading lathes. And no one told ya ahahahaha. One day .010 is .010 and the next it's .020

zmotorsports said:
That is the way I am used to. For the past 26+ years I have used lathes that you move the dial the radius amount. If you need the part .020" diameter small, just dial the cross slide .010". Not to say one is better or not, just different.

It was just a habit that I will have to change is all. I don't think it will be that big of a deal because I am only sitting at around 20 hours on my new lathe and I am getting used to it. It really isn't that big of a deal, I just thought it was worth mentioning on my review of the lathe.

Mike.

zmotorsports · Aug 22, 2014

chuckorlando said:
You would have loved learning in a shop that had 2 radius and 2 dia reading lathes. And no one told ya ahahahaha. One day .010 is .010 and the next it's .020

Ya, that would have been fun. Possibly the scrap bin would get full quick.

Mike.

JPatMcConnel · Aug 23, 2014

Just a big thanks for all your effort in the rollout and shakedown of your PM1340GT. Per your suggestion, I replaced the belt on my new PM1340GT with the NAPA belt (even picked up some spares as they had to be ordered); and not only does it run quieter, but I can actually change between pulleys without a socket wrench on the large pulley nut and a large screw driver to lift the belt between pulleys. As a result of getting my lathe spot on level I also learned how to calibrate a Starrett 18" machinists level. No joy like the joy of hours of trying to get a lathe level and then finding out the level doesn't read in the same relative position when you flip it around. Like you, I really like the fit and finish of this lathe. I have a DRO on my new lathe and I am beginning to appreciate how much versatility it injects into the creation of the fountain pen parts I make.

Thanks again,
Pat McConnel

zmotorsports · Aug 23, 2014

Thanks Pat and congrats on getting yours up and running where you are happy with it. That is one thing I didn't explain and maybe I should have was how to flip the level end for end to calibrate it. I guess I just assumed that was already known. Sorry, I should have been more detailed from the beginning.

Post up some pictures of your pens that you are machining, I would love to see them and I am sure others would as well.

Mike.

Negev · Aug 23, 2014

Congrats on the new machine!!! But there is one thing your missing the racing stripe's
over the top of the head stock since you got the GT model and o yea your new nick
is speed racer LOL

Just kiddin with yea!!! :rofl: Enjoy !!!!

mksj · Aug 24, 2014

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ontVertAlignInTxbx/> <w:Word11KerningPairs/> <w:CachedColBalance/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> <m:mathPr> <m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/> <m:brkBin m:val="before"/> <m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/> <m:smallFrac m:val="off"/> <m:dispDef/> <m:lMargin m:val="0"/> <m:rMargin m:val="0"/> <m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/> <m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/> <m:intLim m:val="subSup"/> <m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/> </m:mathPr></w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]-->[FONT=&amp]Recently purchased a PM-1340GT and took delivery the other day, took some fancy footwork to get it on the stand with my 1 ton engine hoist. I lifted the lathe with a 2 ton lifting strap as shown, and two tie downs [/FONT][FONT=&amp][FONT=&amp]attached to either end [/FONT]so I could keep the lathe level. This also prevented damage to the X-axis glass DRO scale. The 1/4 ton hoist position was only used to shimmy the lathe into position, I would recommend using a 2 ton engine hoist which has a bit more reach then my unit. The fit and finish on the PM-1340GT (Taiwanese machine) and accessories are in a league of its own at this price break

). As far as I can tell only the 4 jaw chuck is of Chinese manufacturer, not really a problem. All the accessories are top notch, I also purchased an Easson ES-12 from QMT at a very reasonable price. Haven't powered it up yet, as I am converting the 3 phase lathe to a VFD drive similar to what was described earlier in this post. Will add a blue lighted coolant switch which will activate with the lathe motor, replace the power light with the VFD speed control and add a lighted [/FONT][FONT=&amp][FONT=&amp](to indicate power) green [/FONT]jog switch. Still working out the schema, but the existing wiring and electrical components is outstanding.

When leveling my machines I have used an inexpensive digital leveling gauge, once zeroed you can get accurate readings with a resolution down to 0.01 degrees in all three axis I also use this on my mill head to set the angle. [/FONT]

zmotorsports · Aug 24, 2014

Nice mjsk. Congrats on the new lathe and getting it on its stand.

I am anxious to hear your thoughts once you get some time on it. I am approaching 30 hours of run time on mine and like it more and more every time I use it. I machined some parts yesterday for a Jeep suspension for a guy and I am very happy with the ability to dial right in on the size and land on the measurement I was shooting for.

I then turned around and had to machine some new screws for my motorcycle helmet that were under .5" diameter and I decided to turn 1/4-28 threads on the aluminum screws. I had never single pointed that small of thread before but I decided to give it a go since I had the machine to do it. WOW! The screws and the threads turned out amazing. Great overall lathe, from large diameter work all the way down to single pointing 1/4-28 threads.

Mike.

zmotorsports · Sep 10, 2014

Last night I had a few minutes while waiting for a guy to drop off a bike so I decided to tackle another item on my "wants" list. I had a soft stop on my last lathe and used the crap out of it. It was across the ways and was adjustable along the length of the bed and then had a thumbscrew that would either hold a dial indicator in for measuring carriage movement or could be used as a hard stop with a rod and I could bump up against it with the carriage. Although I generally used it as a soft stop with the DI and very seldom used it as a hard stop.

I let it go with the lathe when I sold it but I definitely wanted to fabricate another one so I took some time last night to do so.

I started with a piece of .625" thick 3"x3" piece of flat stock mild steel. Milled it to size and counterbored a hole for a longer 6MMx1.0 SHCS to mount it to the lathe just above the selector knob for the leadscrew or feed rod.

I also had to notch it a bit to clear one of the screws that hold the lower shelf to the control panel. This is the shelf that holds the felt material for lubing the Norton gearbox.

Here it is mocked into place to determine the location of the hole for the rod which will hold the dial indicator.

I used a piece of .375" O1 drill rod and milled a flat the majority of the length for the thumbscrew to tighten against. I also milled a flat on one end and drilled/tapped it for a 1/4"-28 SHCS to attach the dial indicator.

Clamped in the mill vise just after milling the flat.

Completed and installed on the lathe. Now when I need to have an accurate measurement of carriage movement I simply loosen the thumbscrew and slide the rod out to the carriage, zero the dial indicator and it is ready to use. When done I simply slide it all the way back towards the headstock. The rod barely protrudes out past the side cover and is much more readily usable and quick than the one I had on my last lathe.

drs23 · Sep 10, 2014

Mike, I'm very surprised that your vice has the surface rust like mine. I figured in SLC you wouldn't have near the issue with it that I do here being 8 miles off the Gulf. How long have you had it?

zmotorsports · Sep 10, 2014

drs23 said:
Mike, I'm very surprised that your vice has the surface rust like mine. I figured in SLC you wouldn't have near the issue with it that I do here being 8 miles off the Gulf. How long have you had it?

It actually isn't rust, it seems to be a reaction to the Union Butterfield cutting oil that I have been using. If I don't get it right off it stains the bare metal. You can't feel it and brake wash will not remove it.

I have recently switched back over to using the darker sulfur based SuperKut cutting oil and prefer it. Although the Union Butterfield does have a good smell to it.

ondering:

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My Precision Mathews PM1340GT Arrival

chuckorlando

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JPatMcConnel

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Negev

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mksj

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drs23

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