My Precision Mathews PM1340GT Arrival

[zmotorsports]

I'm like you - thinking about the next person to come along looking for a particular machine. Just like to leave some better info around to help people sort things out. Best we can do because I think the search is kinda always going to be like you saw - little bit here, little bit there, little bit from 2005 that no longer applies, cuss fight about Brand X/China, etc. Very few posts out there that are just "I bought this, this is what was in the box, here's what I see, how it seems to run".

EXACTLY. That is my feelings exactly. My experience/opinions may be something different than someone else's but at least here is my opinion on X, Y or Z. Just information, people can do with it what they like but at least it is another source of information to help make an informed decision.

Mike.

 

[TFC]

Mike,
By your photos, it looks as though the NAPA belt you used to replace the OEM belt is longer than the OEM belt. Is that the case? I can't get the motor to adjust far enough upward due to: 1.) Cap screws in the way which are impossible to access/remove unless I remove the entire motor. Not sure what those cap screws do so I'm leery of pulling them anyway. 2.) Wiring from VFD to motor, installed by QMT, is too short to allow any further upward travel of the motor unless the VFD is disconnected. Changing a belt position should not be this hard. I made some measurements and now I'm on the way to NAPA to get a longer belt so I can use the A and B positions. There is no way, with the obstacles I described, that the OEM belt would ever fit both pulley positions. Thought about doing the link belt thing but NAPA has none in stock and I'll wait till at least Monday for a special order. BTW, nice photos of your machine and enhancements. I have had some issues/obstacles with my 1340GT that just should not have happened in a "new" machine. QMT is taking care of everything but it is still more frustration + obstacles = time. Thanks.
Tim

 

[zmotorsports]

Mike,
By your photos, it looks as though the NAPA belt you used to replace the OEM belt is longer than the OEM belt. Is that the case? I can't get the motor to adjust far enough upward due to: 1.) Cap screws in the way which are impossible to access/remove unless I remove the entire motor. Not sure what those cap screws do so I'm leery of pulling them anyway. 2.) Wiring from VFD to motor, installed by QMT, is too short to allow any further upward travel of the motor unless the VFD is disconnected. Changing a belt position should not be this hard. I made some measurements and now I'm on the way to NAPA to get a longer belt so I can use the A and B positions. There is no way, with the obstacles I described, that the OEM belt would ever fit both pulley positions. Thought about doing the link belt thing but NAPA has none in stock and I'll wait till at least Monday for a special order. BTW, nice photos of your machine and enhancements. I have had some issues/obstacles with my 1340GT that just should not have happened in a "new" machine. QMT is taking care of everything but it is still more frustration + obstacles = time. Thanks.
Tim

Tim, yes the NAPA belt is a little longer, but only slightly. It puts the motor more in the middle of the adjustment range, maybe slightly favoring the upper end. It makes pulley position changes a breeze, however, with the 3-phase/VFD belt changes are almost a non-issue. For the most part I have left it in the low speed pulley position and used the gears in the headstock and the VFD to fine tune my spindle RPM's.

I did however, jump up to the high range pulley configuration the other night for two reasons. First, I wanted to see how difficult it was or how long it took to do and it was a breeze, took less than a minute. Secondly, I was polishing up a piece of small diameter steel and wanted to get up in the higher RPM range. Afterwards it was dropped right back into the low range pulley groove.

DO NOT remove those socket head capscrews that the motor comes in contact with, they are the adjustment screws/jack screws for the headstock alignment on the lathe bed.

I cannot speak for how QMT wired the VFD to the lathe so I can't give you any direction there. I know I ran my load side wiring directly from the VFD to the motor and then the control wiring from the VFD to the lathe in two separate casings and left plenty of slack so that is probably why I have not experienced any issues with the wiring being too short.

I hope you are able to get it figured out and can get on with using your lathe. I know I am more impressed and more happy with mine each time I use it.

Mike.

 

[zmotorsports]

I started another thread with just the video in it but I thought I would throw it on this thread as well.

Here is a link to my video review.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KNbbEoJf1TI

If anyone has any questions or comments please feel free.

Mike.

 

[george wilson]

zmotorsports: Unless I am reading you backwards,I think you have the 2 systems confused; The American system is the one where you have to divide by 1/2 to get the full amount removed from the stock measured. The Continental system automatically

gives you the true amount removed. A much handier system,especially when you have a fraction of a thou to deal with,and your old head is tired.

Or,am I getting your posts wrong?

 

[zmotorsports]

zmotorsports: Unless I am reading you backwards,I think you have the 2 systems confused; The American system is the one where you have to divide by 1/2 to get the full amount removed from the stock measured. The Continental system automatically

gives you the true amount removed. A much handier system,especially when you have a fraction of a thou to deal with,and your old head is tired.

Or,am I getting your posts wrong?

George, where did I reference it incorrectly so I can correct it? I think I have it straight in my head but I may have typed it wrong somewhere if you could point it out. I have been referring to my lathe as having the "American" system based off of the information that you provided earlier. I had never heard of that but my previous lathe and the one I use at work use the "continental" system because they have the dials marked in .001" which equals actual cross feed movement.

I just have had to make the switch in my head but after only about 20+ hours on my new lathe right now I feel I have done a pretty good job of changing my behavior and I am getting used to the new system.

Unless I am misunderstanding you. On my lathe the dials are marked out in .002" increments. Meaning if you need the part to be .020" diameter smaller, you turn the dial according to the markings .020". This only moves the crossfeed .010" though. On the other system if I need to remove .020" from total diameter I would move the dial .010" which is marked in .001" increments.

So is that correct or am I misunderstanding or misreading you?

Thanks.

Mike.

 

[wrmiller]

"if you need the part to be .020" diameter smaller, you turn the dial according to the markings .020".
Mike.

This is how my little lathe works. I measure the part, need to remove 20 thou, and crank the dial 20 thou. I don't have to think about how far the tool moves. Much simpler.

Bill

 

[John Hasler]

This is how my little lathe works. I measure the part, need to remove 20 thou, and crank the dial 20 thou. I don't have to think about how far the tool moves. Much simpler.

Bill

Depends on how you think. .020 off the diameter is .010 off the radius. To my mind it's simplest and least error-prone if the dial tells me how far the tool moved.

 

[zmotorsports]

Depends on how you think. .020 off the diameter is .010 off the radius. To my mind it's simplest and least error-prone if the dial tells me how far the tool moved.

That is the way I am used to. For the past 26+ years I have used lathes that you move the dial the radius amount. If you need the part .020" diameter small, just dial the cross slide .010". Not to say one is better or not, just different.

It was just a habit that I will have to change is all. I don't think it will be that big of a deal because I am only sitting at around 20 hours on my new lathe and I am getting used to it. It really isn't that big of a deal, I just thought it was worth mentioning on my review of the lathe.

Mike.

 

[Falcon67]

Depends on how you think. .020 off the diameter is .010 off the radius. To my mind it's simplest and least error-prone if the dial tells me how far the tool moved.

This. When I think "it needs to be .004 smaller in diameter" I move the dial what equates to .002. 1 mark takes off 2 dia. This is how my cross slide dial on the 9x20 works. Pretty sure the cross feed on the carriage is the same.