Just wondering, how weak are the motors on a 7*10? I took a stab at threading, and as soon as I throw in the power feed, it stalls. Power feed worked fine for turning, and stalls before bit even touches workpiece, so could I have my change gears to tight? The manual that came with it is kinda useless,so I've been reading here and the above mentioned websites again. Oh,yeah, the power feed wants to kick out of gear if I try reverse, looks like I have some adjusting to do there. Its not the levers indentation,checked that. I just feel more comfortable feeding away from the Chuck, even though it means very light cuts. Thanks for the help everyone. Just curios about setting up the gears so they're not to tight.
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my new lathe
- Thread starter X-RAY
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2012
- Messages
- 630
Check the leadscrew bushings. They could be twerked a bit. Also the gears could be too tight.
Start with just one gear and add one more to the sequence until you see what is binding.
Another place that can be off is the attachment of the apron.
The only time I had mine behave that way from threading was I tried a gear combination to get it to 2 tpi.
I also highly recommend a hand crank for the spindle. I love mine. (Bought from LMS but you can make.) Gives you a bit more power and control. Especially nice for threading to a shoulder.
Start with just one gear and add one more to the sequence until you see what is binding.
Another place that can be off is the attachment of the apron.
The only time I had mine behave that way from threading was I tried a gear combination to get it to 2 tpi.
I also highly recommend a hand crank for the spindle. I love mine. (Bought from LMS but you can make.) Gives you a bit more power and control. Especially nice for threading to a shoulder.
Just picked up a new Central Machinery 7x10 a few weeks ago. Sounds like the exact same problem I had, worked great with the fine feed gearing, but as soon as I geared it up to cut threads, it would stall the motor out in a short time of running.
What I found was the lead screw mounting block on the tail stock (right) end was actually twisted. The mounting holes were drilled crooked in the bed. How I fixed it was to machine off the threads under the head of the top mounting screw, just the thickness of the mounting block. This allowed the block to move just enough to stop the binding.
After doing this, I'm able to turn the lead screw easily with my fingers.
Damn, you guys are good! Started at spindle, turning chuck and checking gears,OK, now loosened the leadscrew and tada! That was it. Had to much slop in carriage also, so took it off and think I got it right, its a bugger to adjust properly. Not enough time to put apron back on and try it tonight. Tomorrow is another day. Thanx fellas.
Sent from my CMP756 using Tapatalk
Sent from my CMP756 using Tapatalk
nice fix, Grats! My first machine was a harbor freight 7x10. They sure can start a slippery slope down the machine tool path. you can also burn a surprising amount of money on them! qctp is a must, 14" bed, cam mod on the tailstock, 4" chuck, keyless chuck, lathe dogs... and bam $450 more!
But they are a ton of fun
But they are a ton of fun
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2013
- Messages
- 4,063
)They can be a great lathe. Mount it to a sturdy bench and put a cheap pan or a piece of sheet metal under the machine to help with clean up. Good luck.