My 1959 Heavy 10 Toolroom

[Canuck75]

Thanks for the info. I like the synthetic no-stretch belts as well. Only issue I have had is slippage. Completely missed the fact that SB put a "vellumoid" gasket between the headstock base and the chip tray which prevented oil from getting to the underside and then somehow to the belt. Have since put a rubber gasket in place from an old inner tube I had available and hope I've solved it.

 

[Lucas E]

Thanks for the info. I like the synthetic no-stretch belts as well. Only issue I have had is slippage. Completely missed the fact that SB put a "vellumoid" gasket between the headstock base and the chip tray which prevented oil from getting to the underside and then somehow to the belt. Have since put a rubber gasket in place from an old inner tube I had available and hope I've solved it.

Ya, I noticed the gasket when disassembling mine. I just cut some new gaskets out of a roll of gasket paper. Hopefully they'll seal well. I'm going to try and keep oil from pooling up around them, but we'll see how practical that is.
I had to pull my apron back off because the power feed clutch wouldn't disengage. Turns out the back cover was hitting the clutch rod and keeping it engaged. I remember removing 2 gaskets from the apron cover and thought that was weird, but now realize it was done for clearance. Once I put it back together it was leaking quite a bit. So I pulled it off a 3rd time and cut two new cover gaskets and sealed it with "the right stuff" gasket sealer. We'll see if that solves my leaky apron

 

[Canuck75]

Funny you should mention that. The apron oil on mine was kind of gunked up when I tore it down, probably from never being changed, so oil leaks kind of help to keep it refreshed! Love that toggle lever clutch as long as it works right. My lathe didn't come with the coolant package so that is my excuse for missing the need for the gasket under the head stock base.

Take care.

 

[Canuck75]

Have always been curious about the bracket which your pictures show as the mount for the micrometer carriage stop. I just clamped the stop directly to the lathe way which works fine, is less cumbersome, and can be moved quickly anywhere along the lathe bed. Went back through all my information and to my surprise the SB Part List indeed shows the bracket and carriage stop mounted as in your pictures - has only taken 46 years to "discover" this - thanks!!. But, it also says that it is only necessary when working close to the spindle. Now that I have a DRO the micrometer stop is redundant. Also see a home made carriage stop, the versatility that mounting the micrometer stop directly to the bed would give would seem to negate any advantage there as well? Do you see any use for it?

 

[Lucas E]

Have always been curious about the bracket which your pictures show as the mount for the micrometer carriage stop. I just clamped the stop directly to the lathe way which works fine, is less cumbersome, and can be moved quickly anywhere along the lathe bed. Went back through all my information and to my surprise the SB Part List indeed shows the bracket and carriage stop mounted as in your pictures - has only taken 46 years to "discover" this - thanks!!. But, it also says that it is only necessary when working close to the spindle. Now that I have a DRO the micrometer stop is redundant. Also see a home made carriage stop, the versatility that mounting the micrometer stop directly to the bed would give would seem to negate any advantage there as well? Do you see any use for it?

You need the bracket when using 5c collets. There isn't enough room to mount the carriage stop on the ways between the gear box and carriage when your right up next to the spindle using 5c collets. If you're using a chuck then you need to move the stop down on the ways as the rod isn't long enough to reach the carriage when mounted in the bracket.

 

[Canuck75]

That all makes sense.
In another vein, I haven't used the quick-release collect drawbar very much either, great for making multiple parts but for single use I find a manual drawbar is better. I made one using a snowmobile track-tire for the hand wheel. Can feel the pressure you are putting on the collet easier.

Canuck75

 

[Lucas E]

That all makes sense.
In another vein, I haven't used the quick-release collect drawbar very much either, great for making multiple parts but for single use I find a manual drawbar is better. I made one using a snowmobile track-tire for the hand wheel. Can feel the pressure you are putting on the collet easier.

Canuck75

Ya, I don't think I'd like the quick release drawbar. I have a hand wheel as well, easier to switch back and forth between chucks and collets.

Is that your lathe with the turret? Looks cool

 

[Canuck75]

Ya, I don't think I'd like the quick release drawbar. I have a hand wheel as well, easier to switch back and forth between chucks and collets.

Is that your lathe with the turret? Looks cool

Yup.Turret is a Hardinge Model B off a very old lathe. Machine was toast and heading for the scrap heap so the turret was a freebie to me. Indexer didn't work but found a way to repair that and otherwise okay. After a lot of calculations found I could adapt it to my SB. Just needed to mill the base off and make rails to fit the V and flat ways. Lots of fun doing this but in the end don't find it that useful. Has a short back stroke before it catches the pawl and wants to index. Have to go all the way if you want to go back to the same station. Might try to make it index manually and thus be able to use the full stroke at each station as many times as you want. Original owner had it loaded up with small custom made tool holders and a live centre so must have been making small repeat parts. I loaded it up with chucks which were more useful to me. A few pics tell the story a little better.

 

[Lucas E]

Yup.Turret is a Hardinge Model B off a very old lathe. Machine was toast and heading for the scrap heap so the turret was a freebie to me. Indexer didn't work but found a way to repair that and otherwise okay. After a lot of calculations found I could adapt it to my SB. Just needed to mill the base off and make rails to fit the V and flat ways. Lots of fun doing this but in the end don't find it that useful. Has a short back stroke before it catches the pawl and wants to index. Have to go all the way if you want to go back to the same station. Might try to make it index manually and thus be able to use the full stroke at each station as many times as you want. Original owner had it loaded up with small custom made tool holders and a live centre so must have been making small repeat parts. I loaded it up with chucks which were more useful to me. A few pics tell the story a little better.

Nice job, looks like a lot of work. I don't think I'm going to dabble with a turret in mine. Most of what I'm making is one off parts.

 

[Lucas E]

I got my T nut and tool post bolt machined up for my new AXA (German Brand) multifix tool post. Was a pain in the butt since I kept running into the chicken and egg conundrum of needing the tool post to machine parts, but not being able to use the tool post until the parts were made. Eventually got it worked out with the old lantern tool post. Still waiting on more insert tooling to arrive. Now the fun begins.