MT2 Reamer to live Center

C

Chucketn

Toxic Lunatic & Psychotic
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I was fortunate to get a MT2 shanked Reamer from Machine Tom. I want to use it as a basis for a MT2 live center based on the design by E.T. Wesbury, and as written up by Mikey at http://mikesworkshop.weebly.com/revolving-centres.html
My question: As I have to cut the tail off the taper to fit my 7x14 tailstock, and cut the reamer part off, if I can scratch the shaft and taper with a file, I can cut it on my 4x6 bandsaw, right?
I know I can turn a new MT2 taper for this project, done that before. I plan on turning the shaft part of the reamer to fit a collet for use on the mill after removing it from the taper. I like to repurpose old tools...:thinking:
I could also cut the tool up with an angle grinder or Dremel, done that before also.
Just want to use the 4x6 band saw, but don't want to rip the teeth off my only useable blade on a holiday...

Happy Thanksgiving!

Chuck in E. TN
 
I answered my own question. I just put the reamer in my bench vise and took a pass at it with my hand hacksaw. It cut, so the band saw should have no problem.
:biggrin:
Chuck in E. TN
 
Mt shanked drills are never hardened in their shanks either. It may be done that way to make them grip better in their sockets. Even common straight shank drills do not seem to be hardened in their shanks. At least not in sizes above 1/4". Smaller ones may be full hardened due to the difficulty of selectively hardening smaller drills.

I have sawn the MT shanks off of a few drills to use the shank for other applications. Saves the trouble of making one,if the drill is fouled up anyway.
 
They are softer to protect the socket from the dents and dings that inevitably turn up on the male tapers. Quills with machine tapers are typically hardened, ground, and some lapped to precise limits, so to damage a non-perishable is unacceptable. It's always better to imbed chips into the shank rather than the ID of the quill. It happens, no matter how careful we are.
 
4x6 cut it no problem. Had to make 3 cuts. First cut of tang was 1/4" off. Then I cut reamer from the taper.

DSCF1202.jpg

I chucked the taper and center drilled the small end of the taper. I have to remove the chuck and use a MT3 sleeve to work on the other end.
Now to find a 1/4" bearing ball and get on with it!

Chuck in E. TN

DSCF1202.jpg
 
I hapen to have a MT3 taper drill bit and a MT3 reamer that could be remade into something usefull. I plan to cut the drill part off and turn the shank to fit a 1/2 " drill chuck. The drill is labeled B34 and 51/64. The reamer is another problem. It has no readable markings. The reamer part is about 8" long and looks to be a MT2 reamer, though I don't know why it would be that long. I found them both in my late Father's tools.

I already have a hardened MT3 center for the lathe headstock, and a MT3 to MT2 sleve, Maybe a mill
holder? Any other ideas?

Chuck in E. TN


DSCF1203.jpg

DSCF1203.jpg
 
Forgot to clarify, my lathe is MT3 in the headstock, the X2 Mill is R8. Maybe a flycutter for the lathe? Or a 3/8" mill holder that would hold the straight shanked flycutters from the mill?
Any ideas on the origional purpose of the long reamer in my last post? I have no good way of measuring the taper of it unless I ream a piece of hardwood and see if the MT2 taper will fit it.

Chuck in E. TN
 
The only reason I can think of for my father having a bridge reamer is he worked on the construction of East Sidney Dam, in Upstate New York, just after WWII. Unless he found it on the side of the road...:lmao:
Maybe he knew somone in construction.
Looks like a candidate for a mill/straight shank tool holder/arbor to me!

Chuck in E. TN
 
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