Making Bushings...

[zboss86]

Bare with me I'm green. When I say green, I mean I just hooked up power to the lathe last weekend. So I'm new everything when it comes to machining/turning

Made some bushings for some control arms on a differential I'm building. I ended up just hitting the outside of the bushing with some sandpaper and a red scotch pad. That put me where I needed to be.
I drilled out the center with a 3/8" drill bit and then followed up with a 1/2".
Would you normally drill this out in two steps or would you do it differently?

I wouldn't mind just barely cleaning the inside hole, adding just a touch of clearance wouldn't hurt either.
What would you guys use/do for this?

I made the bushings out of 3/4" cold roll.
2.5" long
3/4" outside diameter
1/2" hole

 

[Charles Spencer]

"I wouldn't mind just barely cleaning the inside hole, adding just a touch of clearance wouldn't hurt either.
What would you guys use/do for this?"

Well I'd guess that most people would use a reamer.

 

[zboss86]

Thx, I was thinking that but I've never used one... I'll give that a go.

 

[oldboy1950]

if that is you fab work clamped to the table you wont have too much trouble figuring out lathe work.
good luck Dan

 

[bill stupak]

You could bore it out and get a nice smooth concentric hole.

Bill

 

[zboss86]

if that is you fab work clamped to the table you wont have too much trouble figuring out lathe work.
good luck Dan

I can't claim the FAB9 housing, it's Mosier's piece of art. I jut made and added the brackets/ control arms.

You could bore it out and get a nice smooth concentric hole.

Bill

It's sad, but I even had to read up on boring just to make sure I knew what you were referring to. That' d be an option too...

 

[zboss86]

I notice the drill on the tail stock wanted to turn in the chuck at times. Normally happened when I was about 2" into the bushing. Was this because I was trying to drill too fast or to big of a hole at once? I kept the drill bit pretty sharp and dabbed oil on it every half inch or so...

 

[joshua43214]

I notice the drill on the tail stock wanted to turn in the chuck at times. Normally happened when I was about 2" into the bushing. Was this because I was trying to drill too fast or to big of a hole at once? I kept the drill bit pretty sharp and dabbed oil on it every half inch or so...

This either comes from not getting the chuck arbor fully seated, or it comes from a poorly fitted taper.

Clean the arbor and the bore really well. Use mineral spirits and a clean rag sine the lathe is new to you and you don't know if there is oil on the mating surfaces.
You want to slam the chuck back up into the tail stock. Try to do this with the chuck only about 1/2" or so from the bottom. It is easy to score the taper in the tail stock if you start from too far out and hit the wall as the arbor goes in.
hammering on the nose of the chuck is pretty much always bad practice, but I am sure you will not have to look far to find someone here who has done it. Best to use a mallet, and either tap the end of the drill, or retract the jaws and tap the face.
You should not be able to twist the chuck by hand, and it should stick then pop free when the tail stock is fully retracted.

Marks you would normally consider harmless can cause a taper to not seat. Inspect the arbor really closely for dings, any place you find a ding, there is a ridge around the ding. Clean up the arbor with a fine stone or very fine Swiss file any place you find a scratch or ding.
Cover the arbor with transfer dye (you probably want some, it comes in handy for fab work), or permanent marker.
Push the arbor into the taper and rotate, then remove. The dye will rub off on the areas where contact is made.
Repairing the taper might be done with careful use of emery cloth on a stick, or might require reaming.
Tom Lipton (YouTube oxtoolco) did a video on it a while ago, he covers it really well, but I can't find the video link (sorry).

 

[zmotorsports]

The drill chuck arbor for the tailstock should have a tang on the end that resides into a notch in the tailstock. This prevents the chuck from turning until it gets seated. For the most part the interference fit of the taper is what holds the chuck in the tailstock. They try to turn because the drag of whatever you are turning is overcoming the friction in the taper. Also check to ensure the taper itself is clean and there is no foreign debris inside. This will greatly effect the taper fitment.


Mike.

 

[zboss86]

I worded that wrong... The drill bit was turning in the chuck. The chuck looks to be a pretty nice piece, unlike the lathe I noticed it's actually an USA made piece from Ohio. I found a better fitting key and that helped a lot. I may have been feeding too fast. Just checking to make sure there isn't anything else I could be overlooking.

However, I'm glad you told me about the part of the chuck turning with in the tail stock b/c that did happen some. That's some good info that I'd never would have thought of. Tapered arbors are new to me... I'll definitely look into that.