Dabbler, it's good to see a schematic!
The use of TWO fuses is very odd. And R12-R13 just
looks like a waste of energy, but might be there to save the switch contacts
from burn scars. If those components are left in place, the AC for
release will be less effective (an MOV instead of the resistors and diode
would possibly be suitable). The 3P3T switch does disconnect the DC,
which is a tough job.
R3A sets a fixed light-dimmer setting as is sensible. Triac device variation would
be the reason not to use a fixed value, and "R3" is probably the manufacturer's
tweak, removed during final assembly.