Lost dial lock screw - 10K large dials

Under certain set screws etc that went directly onto a threaded shaft my old Atlas 7b had lead shot under the screw. I thought it was kinda genius as it locked the shaft without marring it.
y'd think lead would get mashed.I thought I'd make one out of brass
 
y'd think lead would get mashed.I thought I'd make one out of brass
That’s why I thought it was genius. It’ll lock the shaft and not mar it. Brass will deform threads.
 
This is the original pin that I thought that I had lost. I made a new one out of steel. When I found this one I threw it in a drawer.
So, this one, I believe to be an original Southbend part. It's aluminum, it measures .126 dia × .242 long. I'm going to put this one where it belongs!
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For the pin, don't use steel - it will mar the shaft. Also, don't use lead - it will deform and flow into the threads so that you won't be able to get it out (without drilling). Aluminum may work, but I would be worried about mushrooming the head and getting it jammed into the threads like the lead. The original part was brass - it's hard enough to not deform, yet soft enough to not mar the shaft.

McMaster sells the knurled thumbscrew to replace the one you're missing. As for the size, it is a common thread (I don't remember the size - it was a #10 something), so just find a screw that fits and order that size.
 
For the pin, don't use steel - it will mar the shaft. Also, don't use lead - it will deform and flow into the threads so that you won't be able to get it out (without drilling). Aluminum may work, but I would be worried about mushrooming the head and getting it jammed into the threads like the lead. The original part was brass - it's hard enough to not deform, yet soft enough to not mar the shaft.

McMaster sells the knurled thumbscrew to replace the one you're missing. As for the size, it is a common thread (I don't remember the size - it was a #10 something), so just find a screw that fits and order that size.
thanks all
I found a short piece of copper fuel line in my endless junk boxes, about 3/8 - that did the trick, at least for now. I suppose it'll work harden, but it'll still be softer than the steel - or brass.
 
This is the original pin that I thought that I had lost. I made a new one out of steel. When I found this one I threw it in a drawer.
So, this one, I believe to be an original Southbend part. It's aluminum, it measures .126 dia × .242 long. I'm going to put this one where it belongs!
View attachment 367266
thanks! - yeah, i'd get the steel one out of there...
 
That’s why I thought it was genius. It’ll lock the shaft and not mar it. Brass will deform threads.
Really? Maybe there are some very hard brass alloys, but I've never heard of brass being harder than steel, even iron.
 
Really? Maybe there are some very hard brass alloys, but I've never heard of brass being harder than steel, even iron.
Yes. This is all first hand observations. Of course brass is not harder than steel or iron. But i think you are thinking you have to smash a thread flat to foul it. On a typical 60deg thread it takes very little to smash the tip of the thread. If a small ding or piece of dirt will foul a thread...brass is nowhere near as soft as lead.

I’d never seen the lead shot done before going through my old Atlas shaper. I basically thought screwing anything against a thread was a bozo nono because of just the shearing action of screwing against the thread at the least is going to leave a chip of brass in the threads if it hardened. A reg hardness screw the ends of tips of the thread will be deformed. Seen it. in the case of the Atlas I took out the set screw seeing it was on a threaded shaft and expected to see smashed threads but in maneuvering to get light down in there the lead bb fell out and I could see the thread impression on one side and the set screw on the other, and no deformation of the threads at all. And none of the supposed sticking and fouling the thread. YMMV.
 
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