Look what showed up in my shop!

[tjb]

Nice Machine, I love mine. It's one of those machines that when you need it, nothing else will do! Here is a picture of the capacitor on mine, they are the same machine, so it should show what you need.

RichardView attachment 319836

Richard,

Can you offer any input on the oil pump issue? Does the pump on your South Bend work? Any idea short of filling the reservoir on how to test it? What type oil do you use?

Anything you can offer would be greatly appreciated.

Regards

 

[Ulma Doctor]

Thanks, Mike.

Another option on the hand wheel is to just leave it be. It's not over-the-top filthy, and to me it's not worth the risk of breaking it to get it spotless. Besides it's under the belt guard anyway. Like Yogi says, "If it ain't broke, don't break it."

With regard to the oil pump, I suspect the only way I'm going to know if it works is to go ahead and fill the reservoir and run it. I believe I read somewhere that it holds about a quart. I'm inclined to go ahead and use the right stuff instead of something that will require more work to get out afterwards. What type oil do you use in your shaper? There doesn't seem to be an indication in the parts manual of what to use.

Regards

If it ain’t broke , don’t fix it!

As far as oil goes, i use ND30 wt oil
But i’m sure ND20 wt would suffice too

 

[tjb]

If it ain’t broke , don’t fix it!

As far as oil goes, i use ND30 wt oil
But i’m sure ND20 wt would suffice too

ND30 or ND20 is all? Glad I asked. I thought I would need to use something like machine oil or way oil.

Oh, and if you think about it, Yogi's version makes more sense. If it ain't broke, you can't fix it.

Regards

 

[Mini Cooper S]

Richard,

Can you offer any input on the oil pump issue? Does the pump on your South Bend work? Any idea short of filling the reservoir on how to test it? What type oil do you use?

Anything you can offer would be greatly appreciated.

Regards

Here is a copy of the military tech manual for our shapers, I downloaded it from Vintage Machinery.org. It has a good section on lubrication and the pump. Also here is a picture of a viscosity comparison chart the I downloaded from the web. Looking across from the "Saybolt Universal viscosity approximately 200 seconds at 100° F" line it looks like about a 20 Wt. oil (Non Detergent). I think that may be available from a hardware store or McMaster-Carr. There is also info on adjusting the oil flow. If you are not getting any or very little flow, check that the flow valve isn't gummed up.

Hope this helps, the project is looking great.

Richard

 

[middle.road]

Personally, I wouldn't hesitate in using ISO46 or ISO68 from Tractor Supply or equivalent type of store.
Much easier on the budget than special purpose / premium lubes.
It's not going to be running in a production environment.

 

[tjb]

Here is a copy of the military tech manual for our shapers, I downloaded it from Vintage Machinery.org. It has a good section on lubrication and the pump. Also here is a picture of a viscosity comparison chart the I downloaded from the web. Looking across from the "Saybolt Universal viscosity approximately 200 seconds at 100° F" line it looks like about a 20 Wt. oil (Non Detergent). I think that may be available from a hardware store or McMaster-Carr. There is also info on adjusting the oil flow. If you are not getting any or very little flow, check that the flow valve isn't gummed up.

Hope this helps, the project is looking great.

Richard

View attachment 321405

Thanks, Richard. I actually found the oil pump section in the Vintage Machinery literature a few minutes ago. Hopefully, that information will resolve the issue. I'd just about bet money the flow valve is gummed up - I'd be gummed up, too, if I'd been sitting in a dark basement doing nothing for the past 50 years.

ND20 sounds right. It's also in the range Mike (Ulma Doctor) suggests. In his post above, he noted he uses ND30 but thinks ND20 would also be fine.

Thanks again for the input.

To be continued...

Regards

 

[tjb]

Personally, I wouldn't hesitate in using ISO46 or ISO68 from Tractor Supply or equivalent type of store.
Much easier on the budget than special purpose / premium lubes.
It's not going to be running in a production environment.

Thanks. Worth considering, but if I'm reading the parts manual correctly, the capacity of the reservoir is only a quart. That won't break the bank.

Regards

 

[Ulma Doctor]

ISO68 is equivalent to SAE20 wt
ISO100 is equivalent to SAE30 wt

 

[tjb]

ISO68 is equivalent to SAE20 wt
ISO100 is equivalent to SAE30 wt

Thanks. That's good to know.

Regards

 

[tjb]

Okay, a couple of new items to report:

1. I cleaned out the reservoir and filled it with ISO68 way oil.
The good news: the pump is working!
The bad news: the pump feeds a manifold that has four copper(?) lines - one for each side of the ways on the ram, and two that are essentially free-standing that drip-lubricate gears and other moving parts. All four lines appear to be brazed to the manifold, and the two for the ways seem brazed to pressed-in clips. Three of the four are properly pushing oil, but nothing is coming out of the fourth. And, unfortunately, it is one side of the ways. I suspect the clip may break if I try to pull it out. I tried clearing the port with small wire cleaners and compressed air, but it didn't help. My next thought is to cut the line and see if it's making it through the manifold and then work from there to resolve the problem. I think small plastic fuel line will work well to patch the cut. Any thoughts?

2. In all the enthusiasm about tearing into the shaper, I have completely disregarded some other stuff that came with it. Anybody know what this stuff is? I need to start cleaning it up, but it would probably be nice to know what it is, exactly, that I'm cleaning. Whatever it is, it seems to be high quality, made in America, Rockwell tooling in very good condition. The pieces in the lower right on the first picture, shown in more detail in the last picture, are particularly curious. Are those annular cutters? They seem to have a small Morse taper on the back end.

Regards,
Terry