Logan quick change gear boxes, School me please.

Re: Logan quick change gear boxes, repair time...

It looks like I have purchased the correct QCGB for my Logan. It came from a 1940-2H Logan, which was a turret lathe. Not sure what the "H" stands for though. The gears appear to be good shape, but I have to replace a couple of shafts and a handful of bushings. The shift lever cross shaft, what the shifters travel back and forth on, has about .010 of wear in one end. Also the left hand shifter, large gear idler shaft and bushing, are "wore plum out". That's a technical term... So making the shafts shouldn't be too big of a deal, but I have a question for you vastly more experienced and knowledgeable folk out there beyond my laptop screen: How do you go about buying bushings for the repair of this gear box? Straight from Logan or an industrial supply house like McMaster Carr? God bless.
Jon In Tucson
 
Either source works. If Logan is reasonable I'd buy there. But the bushings are usually standard sizes, available even at hardware stores. But you may need a reamer or two in the correct sizes.
 
I got my bushings from McMaster Carr and had to ream them in place to get things to fit right. That was a challenge as I could not finding a reamer that long for one of the shafts. I indicated both sides in and reamed from each side.

Jigging the housing was a real treat as there are not many flat surfaces to grab onto.

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php?t=21634&page=2&p=193218&viewfull=1#post193218 Post #48

I also had to re-make the selector shaft. Post #45 & #48

Have fun.

Matthew
 
I got my bushings from McMaster Carr and had to ream them in place to get things to fit right. That was a challenge as I could not finding a reamer that long for one of the shafts. I indicated both sides in and reamed from each side.

Jigging the housing was a real treat as there are not many flat surfaces to grab onto.

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php?t=21634&page=2&p=193218&viewfull=1#post193218 Post #48

I also had to re-make the selector shaft. Post #45 & #48

Have fun.

Matthew

I have purchased bushings from the local Ace hardware, McMaster Carr, and from Logan.
1. The two bushings on the power input side of the gearbox I was able to find at Ace as well as a long sleeve bushing that I cut up for the 40T handle gears.

2. From McMaster Carr I ordered the stack shaft bushings and a new shaft for the slider shaft assembly. I will get to learn how to cut a key way in the aforementioned shaft.

3. From Logan I ordered the third bushing or inboard bushing for the input power. This is the one with a 3/4" OD and a 7/16" ID. Couldn't seem to source it out of anyone else. Also ordered a "pin" that secures the 40 T gear in the left handle as the old one was worn down about 1/16th of an inch.

I'm starting to get excited about the possibility of completing the gearbox and actually having a power feed on the saddle and compound. God bless.
Jon In Tucson
 
Received my order from McMaster Carr in less than 24 hours, wow! Ordered about 5 pm on Monday, got it about 1:30 pm Tuesday afternoon. Shipping charges were nominal in my estimation for that kind of service. Still waiting on my order from Logan. Hope to get the key way milled on the slider shaft this weekend, if my machinist friend's shop is available. Just like the movie "What about Bob?", "Baby steps, Bob, baby steps." God bless.
Jon In Tucson
 
Made some progress lately, although September 1 is the beginning of dove season here in AZ, I did go out a few times and attempt bag a few of those small feathered rockets. All of you guys who have been restoring their lathes gave me the urge to do some restoration as well as the refurbishment that is necessary. My color scheme is Rust-oleum smoke gray, Sunrise red, and gloss black. The gear box casting gray, Logan logo red as well as the shift levers, and the thread chart black. I learned that even with spray cans you can put too much pain on the the surface. Did some judicious scraping with a straight edge and steel wool buffing and the results are tolerable, but much easier to read. The last of the bushings arrived today and now the re-assembly will commence. Still need to get the key way cut on the replacement slider shaft. Here are a few photos. Little by little... God bless.
Jon In Tucson

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Another step forward. I was able to go to my friend's place of employment and we, (I use that term loosely) mostly Ken, made the new slider shaft for the QCGB. After assembling and test fitting, I made a few chips.:)) Now I will have to locate a LA-517 bracket to secure my banjo drive train before I start getting too crazy. I also need to test thread stock to see if the stud and change gears are correct for this gear box. I have: 34T idler and reverse gears, 36T stud gear, 72T/64T change gears and a 60T input gear on the QCGB. My thread chart shows stud gears of 48/24.

Question: Can any one tell me if I have the proper combination of gears to transmit power from the spindle to the QCGB? Here are a couple photo's of the current progress. God bless.
Jon In Tucson

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I bought a replacement gear for my QCGB on my Logan 820 built in 1945 from a very knowledgeable gentleman in California. When the gear arrived, it was too small. I called him, and he said I have the older model QCGB that uses a different DP gear. There is a certain serial number (can't remember it, of course) where Logan changed to a smaller DP gear set. He makes both styles, so we exchanged gears, and I learned something.

GG
 
I bought a replacement gear for my QCGB on my Logan 820 built in 1945 from a very knowledgeable gentleman in California. When the gear arrived, it was too small. I called him, and he said I have the older model QCGB that uses a different DP gear. There is a certain serial number (can't remember it, of course) where Logan changed to a smaller DP gear set. He makes both styles, so we exchanged gears, and I learned something.

GG
GG,
Thanks for the info. I wonder if it is the same vendor that makes the replacement bracket (LA-517)for securing the banjo assembly? I suspect that I may need another 72T gear to put on the input side of the QCGB. And it is possible other things are wrong also...:think1:When I tried to run a 10tpi threading speed on a piece of scrap, I was nowhere near 10, more like 28... So, I got to slow it down some.

CNCman, Thank for the compliment! God bless.
Jon In Tucson
 
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