Leveling Mill

dlane

dlane

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attempting to level mill, was thinking sheet metal but thickness are wrong , need .048 thick .
Wanting the hole corner foot shimmed not just a part of it, shim stock to skinny
Was thinking brass /aluminum is to soft
Any suggestions
Thanks
 
The mill base is on a 1.25" thick steel plate on concrete floor , should I level the plate or the mill on the plate.?. Once leveled I'll weld small angle iron stops on plate that keep base from moving on plate.
This is rock and roll country
Another question, welding on plate with mill on it , will my vfd be safe ?.
Thanks
 
Is this a stand alone knee milling machine with a base?
If so why does it need to be level at all?

If you use flood coolant tilt it a bit back so that the coolant runs toward the drains, if you routinley use a level for set up then by all means level it, otherwise do not even bother. Such a machine will operate just fine tilted a 45° if used without coolant.
 
One approach might be to make sure the mill is happily on the plate, then use suitable wedges between the plate and floor to "level" it, and fill in underneath it with something like grout, JB Weld, etc. If all you're concerned about is that the plate rocks on the floor because the floor is potato-chipped, you might even want to lift off the mill and plate, spread a thin layer of grout under where the plate will be, then replace the plate and the mill before the grout sets.
 
Thanks human, the plate sets flat on floor " no rocking" the floor isn't quite level, the right side of mill base needs to raise up .047-.048 off the plate , ied like the base contact surface full contact on plate
Take a look. "The stains were already there "

image.jpeg
Sorry it's sideways ! Wasn't last time
This is when I got it

I'll be useing my bubble angle gauge sometimes on things , want it to sit level

image.jpeg
This thing is goofy tonite
 
If your machine is not level the force of gravity can change dynamics on wear characteristics, causing premature wear in areas. You may think that statement is crazy talk but the first sentence in any book about using a machine tool is to check that the machine is level, there is a reason. Not only shall said machine be level, but be verified level every so often
 
chevydyl said:
If your machine is not level the force of gravity can change dynamics on wear characteristics, causing premature wear in areas. You may think that statement is crazy talk but the first sentence in any book about using a machine tool is to check that the machine is level, there is a reason. Not only shall said machine be level, but be verified level every so often
Click to expand...
Please explain this.
 
I forgot to throw in the twist (which happens to be more what I meant not just gravity) that could be applied to a machine not level, but think of the big ol unsupported mill table hanging off all the way to one side, now throw some twist into the machine because it's not leveled, run it like that for awhile and it will cause uneven premature wear. Let's agree that in the home shop you may never see it, but a machine used daily surely will show signs.
 
Another thing to consider is that when the machines are made, they are setup leveled for a datum point for scraping, wouldn't you want your machine in the same position as was when made to the claimed accuracy? Also being able to setup work on the mill with a level is useful, I myself have done this, so the machine better be level if you find yourself needing to use your spirit level to setup a part. One part was a rough casting, try and indicate that in, but a level made quick work of getting setup.
 
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