Lathe Leveling feet

I haven't decided completely yet, but for my Logan I've been considering turning down the first 1/2" of the bolt to make it like a dog tip set screw and sizing it so it just barely fits in the pad hole. I'd put a heavy chamfer on the point so it would self-center and have the dog longer than the hole is deep so it bottoms out rather than having the threads pressed against the top of the pad. My surface grinder has that basic setup and it seems to work nicely.
 
Actually I will second the ‘non shrink grout’ option…
I was told by a couple of sources that is their preferred option.

Level the machine with wedges etc that are in different areas than your feet. (It would seem best to let the machine settle for some period?)
Make a crude damn around the feet area with whatever is convenient. Stacks of cardboard with the grout area cut out were suggested.
Pour the 'precision non-shrink grout' into the mold until making contact with machine base. Maybe a little higher than base to be sure?

It does seem cheap and relatively easy. Should also be a very solid and stable connection to the floor. My only thought is that you can't check and re-level if needed later.

I'm also 'told' that you can knock the grout off the concrete later if moving the machine etc. I would hate to have permanent globs of grout stuck to my concrete....
 
jarhead said:
Pontiac, what sixe are the pucks and how did you do the radius in them and on the end of the bolts?
Thanks, Joe
Click to expand...
Joe, The pucks are about 3" by 1-1/4” thick. They were an eBay lot from a metal drop seller, probably an overrun or a goof from a bandsaw cutting job for them. I just jabbed the pockets into them with a big Morse taper drill. The botls I chucked up in a 5C toolhead and ground on my Sheckel using the cheapest Chinese stone I had. The work was expedient, but the results were good. Two different cones allow for misalignment on my uneven concrete, and are easy to turn with a short wrench under the big 17x60 lathe. The biggest challenge was finding those odd M24X2 leveling bolts to fit my lathe. At $8/ea for the bolts and $5/ea for the steel pucks x8 corners, I came in way below the cost of any commercial machine feet out there, not that any existed for that size thread. They're still working, and should outlast me, I imagine!
 
FWIW. Have these under both my Logan 10" & Monarch 10EE (#3,200). I did add washers on top of the lower nut.
www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com www.mcmaster.com
Easy to level/re-level as needed.


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pontiac428 said:
Joe, The pucks are about 3" by 1-1/4” thick. They were an eBay lot from a metal drop seller, probably an overrun or a goof from a bandsaw cutting job for them. I just jabbed the pockets into them with a big Morse taper drill. The botls I chucked up in a 5C toolhead and ground on my Sheckel using the cheapest Chinese stone I had. The work was expedient, but the results were good. Two different cones allow for misalignment on my uneven concrete, and are easy to turn with a short wrench under the big 17x60 lathe. The biggest challenge was finding those odd M24X2 leveling bolts to fit my lathe. At $8/ea for the bolts and $5/ea for the steel pucks x8 corners, I came in way below the cost of any commercial machine feet out there, not that any existed for that size thread. They're still working, and should outlast me, I imagine!
Click to expand...
Thanks!
 
There are a lot of good ways to do this. My version used Mcmaster Carr leveling feet. I threaded the lathe feet, 1/2" I think, then turned down the ends of 4 bolts and threaded them to fit the threaded hole on the leveling feet. The whole thing was assembled onto the lathe with removable locktite and locknuts. It has worked great, I can adjust level with a long extension and breaker bar while I am standing up and looking at the vial. Almost too easy. The lock nut is on top of the feet so when it is snugged up, it lifts up on the bolt which already has the lathe weight on it so there is little change in the vial.
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I also made a pallet for the lathe, by raising the leveling feet the lathe gets dropped on the pallet casters and the lathe can be very carefully moved on the clean smooth floor. Rebuilding of the lathe has been a long but rewarding process not quite done yet.
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