Lathe leveling - do you do it with the lathe fully dressed or just the headstock and ways?

[WobblyHand]

After getting my (new to me) lathe down into the basement and in place I was looking at leveling the lathe. It's grossly leveled with a carpenter level, but nowhere near level according to my machinist level. (0.02mm/m sensitivity.) One thing I noticed was the forward and backward level seems to change depending on where the carriage is positioned, which I found a bit amusing. Like how can one get anything level that way?

Right now, the headstock is higher than the tailstock, but I can fix that with a bit of patience. Of course, that doesn't matter, it's the twist we are trying to take out. So to proceed, is it better to install the chuck, carriage and compound and tailstock and then do the leveling? Or strip it? Yes the level is very sensitive. I don't mind waiting for it to settle. But I don't want to level it bare and find out it changes loaded. Lathe is a Grizzly G0752Z/G0602. Lathe is sitting on rough lime cement floor.

 

[Bob Korves]

You want to make the bed leveled when the lathe is in its most common setup for use. Looking at the photograph of your stand, it should have better strength against racking, both to avoid failure from racking and also to stiffen the structure so it does not shake and vibrate, which will hurt the surface finish on your work. Triangular division of the current square areas using the same square tubing, or sheet metal reinforcement panels are good and common ways to improve strength and stop racking.

 

[C-Bag]

Triangular division of the current square areas using the same square tubing, or sheet metal reinforcement panels are good and common ways to improve strength and stop racking.

And good sized toolbox for convenience and added mass.

 

[WobblyHand]

You want to make the bed leveled when the lathe is in its most common setup for use. Looking at the photograph of your stand, it should have better strength against racking, both to avoid failure from racking and also to stiffen the structure so it does not shake and vibrate, which will hurt the surface finish on your work. Triangular division of the current square areas using the same square tubing, or sheet metal reinforcement panels are good and common ways to improve strength and stop racking.

Thanks for the info. Kind of thought the leveling would be most appropriate for the "as used" condition. Thanks for the confirmation.

For sheet metal reinforcement, what gauge (thickness) material would be effective? Welding isn't a good option for me, since I don't have a 220V circuit in the basement. Even lifting the lathe off the stand would be a major PIA since I'd have to get the lifting equipment down the narrow (27.5"W at the tightest spot) stairwell.

 

[WobblyHand]

And good sized toolbox for convenience and added mass.

Not arguing with the having a good sized toolbox there. I didn't build the stand. Have to say the stand is inefficient with space usage. About the only thing I can fit under there currently is my shop vac. Not seen in the photos is a 42"W toolbox just to the left of the lathe. At some point, I think a new lathe stand makes sense - then it can accommodate another toolbox. The existing toolbox is pretty much full.

 

[Bob Korves]

For sheet metal reinforcement, what gauge (thickness) material would be effective?

I am not familiar with that lathe, or the size and thickness and welding of the tubing for the stand. Sheet metal will do well until it fails by buckling, which in turn is dependent on how flat the panels are laid out, and on how they are fastened to the framework. "It all depends." Maybe around 20 gauge for a wild guess... It also depends on the distances between the support frame members and of fastening the sheet metal to the frame.

 

[Dabbler]

One thing I noticed was the forward and backward level seems to change depending on where the carriage is positioned

I think it is also possible that the top is not rigid enough. It looks like thin wall tubing or at least tubing in the 1" sq range. I'd build a winch into the rafters and lift the lathe up and put at least 2 pcs 3/4 plywood or 1/4" steel plate on top of the frame.

I agree that more diagonal supports are also warranted.

I built my own stand, using 3" X 1/4" angle, with 1" hold down plates at the headstock and tailstock. It is just rigid enough for my 750 lbs 12X37 lathe, (it still twists dramatically during the leveling process).

My other two (larger) lathes have built in stands, which makes the leveling job much easier.

 

[WobblyHand]

I am not familiar with that lathe, or the size and thickness and welding of the tubing for the stand. Sheet metal will do well until it fails by buckling, which in turn is dependent on how flat the panels are laid out, and on how they are fastened to the framework. "It all depends." Maybe around 20 gauge for a wild guess... It also depends on the distances between the support frame members and of fastening the sheet metal to the frame.

Lathe is a light weight, according to data sheet 350 lbs, 10 x 22. I have to go downstairs to measure the steel tubing.

Understood about "it all depends". Guess you are saying - reinforce it. Big panels of steel won't be inexpensive. Might be more cost effective to do some frame triangulation. Or just build something more useful. Something to think a bit on.

 

[Dabbler]

I'd put a whole panel on the back side, of 14 or 16 ga steel, welded to the tubing. THe ends can easily be stiffened with diagonals. leave the front open, as to do anything else is a waste of space in a small shop...

 

[WobblyHand]

I think it is also possible that the top is not rigid enough. It looks like thin wall tubing or at least tubing in the 1" sq range. I'd build a winch into the rafters and lift the lathe up and put at least 2 pcs 3/4 plywood or 1/4" steel plate on top of the frame.

I agree that more diagonal supports are also warranted.

I built my own stand, using 3" X 1/4" angle, with 1" hold down plates at the headstock and tailstock. It is just rigid enough for my 750 lbs 12X37 lathe, (it still twists dramatically during the leveling process).

My other two (larger) lathes have built in stands, which makes the leveling job much easier.

Not sure if it is rigid enough or not. However, it's not a total noodle. There is a pretty solid bar going across the top the long way for the lathe to bolt to. That being said, I'm getting a not too subtle message from everyone that one can't have enough reinforcement.